Kerala Divya Desams

There are 13 Divya Desams in Kerala that could be divided into three groups – 8 Divya Desams around Kochi, 3 around Thiruvananthapuram and 2 on the Shoranur – Mangalore route. All of these Divya Desams have been praised by Namazhvar in his Tiruvoimozhi. One can have darshan of all these 13 Divya Desams in two days, though it is better to visit the three near Thiruvananthapuram on a separate trip. 

Almost all the temples in the region open at 5am and close at 11am and reopen at 5pm and close at 8pm as contrasted with the Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu. The set of temples around Chenganur is believed to have been visited and built by the Pandavas and are propularly referred to s ‘Anju- Ambalam’. There are also a set of temples around Kochi (three are non Divya Desams) that are believed to have been visited by the four brothers from the Ramayana.

Kutta Nattu Thiru Puliyur, Thiru Chittaru, Thiru Varan Vilai, Thiru Van Vandur, Thiru Valla, Thiru Kadithanam (Chenganasery) can be visited in one half of the day starting at 5am at Thiru Kadithanam (Chenganasery) and ending at 11am at Thiru Chittaru or the other way around. The two Divya Desams around Kochi can be visited between 5pm and 8pm in the evening. On the next morning the two Divya Desams near Kuttipuram can be visited between 5am and 10am,

The three Divya Desams in and around Thiruvananthapuram can be visited on a separate trip between 3am /4am and 11am.

1.    1. Thiru Katkarai – Kochi

Located 10kms North East of Ernakulam, close to the Science and Technology University near Edapalli is the over 1200 years old Thiru Katkarai Appan Divya Desam where the Lord  Katkarai Appan is seen with Conch, Chakra and Padma Hastham.

 உருகுமால் நெஞ்சம் உயிரின் பரமன்றி 

பெருகுமால்  வேட்கையும் என் செய்கேன் தொண்டனேன் 

தெரிவு எல்லாம் காவி கமழ் திருக்காட்கரை 

மருவிய மாயன்  தன் மாயம் நினைதொறே 

Namazhvar refers to lotus flowers growing in large numbers around the temple. He praises the location as being home to fertile groves. He praises the Lord, Thirukatkarai appan as having lotus eyes and beautiful lips and seen with four arms.

Katkarai Appan came here as a Vamana Moorthy to end the troubles caused by King Bali and hence this place is referred to as Vamana Kshetram. To mark this event, it is believed that Lord Vishnu visits this Divya Desam every year on the Thiruvonam day in Avani. Bali is said to have invoked Lord Shiva every day. Hence, there is a Paramasivan Sannidhi to the right of the Perumal Sannidhi, with Bali seen invoking the blessings of Lord Shiva.

Special Plantain Trees

A King tried to plant several plantain saplings but none grew into a full fledged tree. He then decided to present the Lord Katkarai Appan with a Golden Plantain Sapling.  Pleased with the devotional commitment, the Lord is said to have blessed him with a huge number of well grown special plantain trees at this place, now referred to as ‘Nenthram banana’.

Festivals

Onam is the biggest Festival at this temple

The Temple is open from 5am-11am and 5pm-8pm. Contact: Priest S. Venkatan @ 99952 16368 / 97475 36161, Manager Vinod @ 94462 05706 or President Janardhan @ 0484 257 6653

How to reach

The temple is 4kms from Edapalli railway station. An auto to the Divya Desam will cost Rs.150/- from Ernakulam Railway Station A taxi-to and fro- from Ernakulam railway station will cost Rs.400-450/. There are direct buses from Ernakulam Town to this temple (Edapalli)

2.    2.  Thiru Moozhikalam – Lakshmana Kshteram
      Namazhvar in his praise refers to the Lord as being beautiful and at his radiant best. He describes the Lord as having lotus eyes and wears Tulasi garlands. He says that the flower groves of Thiru Moozhikalam give out nectar like drops. Nam Azhvaar in his opening verse of praise on this location asks the true devotees to go to Thiru Moozhikalam to invoke the blessings of the 'pot dancer'.

      தூது உரைத்தல் செப்புமின்கள் தூ மொழி 

வாய் வண்டு இனங்காள் 

போது இறைத்து  மது நுகரும் பொழில் 

மூழிக்களத்து உறையும் 

மாதரைத் தம் மார்வகத்தே வைத்தார்க்கு 

என் வாய் மாற்றம் 

தூது  உரைத்தல் செப்புதிரேல் சுடர்வளையும் களையுமே 

While the Divya Desams around Chenganur relate to the legend from Mahabaratha, this Divya Desam in Thiru Moozhikalam dates back to the Ramayana period and is a temple dedicated to Lakshmana. This is one of the four temples in this region relating to the four brothers.

Baratha, who came in search of Rama, was suspected by Lakshmana to have come to battle with Raama. Lakshmana is said to have prepared himself to taking on Baratha only to be cooled down by Raama. Having wrongly suspected his brother Baratha, Lakshmana is believed to have come here to repent for his wrong doing. Much later, it became a tradition here to worship Lakshmana as the Moolavar deity.

How to reach
Thiru Moozhikalam is about 10kms from Angamaley off the Thrissur- Ernakulam Rail route and around 30kms from Ernakulam on the Mala Road. Buses every 15 minutes from Alwaye (Aluva) to this temple.

For Cab to visit ThiruKatkarai and Thiru Moozhikalam, 9846043666

3. Thiru Varan Vilai – Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple

Located about 10kms East of Chengannur Divya Desam on the Southern banks of the Pamba river on the Pathanamthitta State Highway is the Thiru Kuralappan Divya Desam in Aranmul, said to have been built by Arjuna. This Divya Desam has been praised by Namazhvar as Thiru Vaaran Vilai and symbolises Arjuna’s thanks giving gesture to his sarathy (charioteer) Krishna who guided him through the Mahabaratha war. Arjuna undertook penance here to repentfor the killings of his relatives, especially his brother Karna, who he unceremoniously killed when his chariot was grounded to the earth.

Namazhvar, who refers to Thiru Varan Vilai as one of great fame, praises the Lord as one who is seen amidst groves and surrounded by gardens. Similar to the many of the Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu, this Divya Desam was full of mansions that were so tall that Namzhvar visualised it as almost touching the sky. The devotees of the time were seen worshipping the Lord  in every way possible, through their deeds, with a good heart and by uttering pure words.

Ornaments for Sabarimala Lord

Lord Ayyappa’s ornaments are kept here through the year and are taken from here to Sabarimala 2 days prior to the Mandala Vilakku during the Makara Jyothi period.

The Aranmula Boat Race is  a popular event and takes place at the Pamba River which runs right next to the Aranmula Divya Desam.

Festivals

10 day Brahmotsavam in January

Big Pushpa Abhishekam in May

12 day Kalapam Festival in November when the Lord is decorated completely with Chandanam- a beautiful sight to watch

In March every year, the Goddess from Punnan Thottam temple, about a km east of this temple visits the Aranmula Divya Desam and the two are seen together for a day.

Tulabharam, an age old practice, continues to take place at this temple.

Priest Krishna Kumar Namboodari @ 94471 16689 or 0468 2212170

How to reach

The temple is 10kms East of Chengannur. There are buses from the Chengannur bus stand, opposite the railway station.   An auto from the Chengannur Railway Station to the Puliyoor Divya Desam will cost Rs.100/-.

 4.  Thiru Puliyoor - Bheema Kshetram

ஊர் வளம் கிழார் சோலையும் கரும்பும்
பெரும் செந்நெலும் சூழ்ந்து
ஏர் வளம் கிளர் தண் பணைக்
குட்ட நாட்டுத் திருப்புலியூர் 

சீர் வளம் கிளர் மூவுலகு உண்டு உமிழ்
தேவ பிறான்
பேர் வளம் கிளர்தண்றிப் பேச்சு இவள்
இன்று இப் பனை இழையே 

Namazhvar refers to this place as ‘Kutta Nattu’ Thiru Puliyur as distinguished from the Sirupuliyur 

(near Mayiladuthurai) praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar.  Bheema  undertook penance at this place and created the Puliyoor Divya Desam. Hence, this place is referred to as Bheema Kshetram. On a direction from Lord Vishnu, Indra came on a Tiger and killed the demon at this place. Hence, this place has come to be referred as called ‘Puli’yur.

Festivals

Makara Atham Nakshatram - Brahmotsavam

Thiruvonam Makara Sankara Nakshatram- Kavadi Aattam

The temple is located  6kms West of Chengannur Railway Station on the Mavalikera Highway. Contact Unni Krishnan Namboodari @  99478 31069, 0479-246 4825

5.  5. Thiru Chittaru Imayavarappan Divya Desam, Chenganur

Referred to as the Dharmaraja temple, the East facing Imayavarappan Divya Desam in Chengannur has been praised by Namazhvar as Thiru Chittaru temple in Thiru Chenkundroor.  This is one of the five Pandava brothers related temples in this region.

Unhappy at the death of his cousins in the Mahabaratha war, Dharma Raja, the eldest of the Pandava brothers, came to this place and built this temple. This is believed to be the first of the Vishnu temples built by the Pandavas in this region.

Festivals

Panguni Ashta Nakshatram 10 day Brahmotsavam

Ashtami-Rohini- Birthday celebrations of Krishna

Dasavatharam Utsavam- The Lord gets decorated in different avatarams. On the last day, he takes on the Mohini Avataram

January -7 day Sapthaham Festival- During this Utsavam, Bhagavatham Parayanam takes place every day

The temple is 1km West of the Chengannur Railway Station. Contact Mohan Rao @ 94976 74799 or 0479 2456672

 6. Thiru Vanvandur Pambanai Appan temple

Namazhvar refers to the Pambanai Appan Temple as being on the Northern banks of the Pamba River in Thiruvanvandur. The Lord is seen here with Conch, Chakra, Spear and Mace. Nakula renovated the Thiruvanvandur temple. At the Western entrance, one finds sculptures relating to Kalinga Narthanam and Dasavatharam.

வைகல் பூண்கழிவாய் வந்து மேயும் குறுகினங்காள்
செய்கொள் செந்நெலுயர் திரு வண்வண்டூர் உறையும்

கைகொள் சக்கரத்து என் கனிவாய் பெருமானை கண்டு
கைகள் கூப்பிச் சொல்லீர் விணை யாட்டினேன் காதன்மையே

Namazhvar refers to this as a prosperous location where paddy trees grow tall. He refers to the Lord as being ‘Wealthy’.  One heard the sound of the conches at all times. The place reverberated amidst the chants of Vedic Seers. Namazhvar identifies the personality of the Lord as one with Discus and Conch and describes him as one with red lips, lotus eyes and feet.

Festivals

Ashtami-Rohini Krishna Festival, 11day Festival in Dhanur and 10 day Uthiratadhi festival in Kumbham are celebrated in a grand way at the temple.

Contact priest Parameswaran @ 0479 2427808

How to reach:

The temple is located about 7kms North of Chengannur and about 5kms South West of Thiruvalla on the Erimala route. Auto from Thiruvalla bus stand will cost Rs.125/-

7. Thiruvazh Marban, Thiruvalla 

At the Thiru Vazhmarban Divya Desam in Thiruvalla, the Lord is seen in a standing posture facing the East. The sanctum is in such a way that one cannot see the feet of Thiru Vazhmarban.  The Moolavar Lord is also known by the names of Vallabhan and Kolapiran. This place is referred to as the ‘Vallabha Kshetram’.

Lord Vallbhan disguised himself as a Brahmachari and killed an asura with his chakra. The Chakra is said to have fallen at the place where the temple is situated currently. It is a tradition to organise Kathakali to invoke the blessings of Lord Vallabhan. Another tradition is that the Lord is presented with 12000 ripe bananas, half of which is distributed to the devotees.

Thirumangai Azhvaar, who has not sung praises of too many of the Malai Naatu Divya Desam Lords, has dedicated 10 verses to Thiruvalla Lord and has referred to the Lord as ‘Valla Vaazh’. 

உருவின்  ஆர்பிரவி சேர் ஊன் பொதி நரம்பு

தோல் குரம்பையுள் புக்கு

அருவி நோய் செய்து நின்று,

ஐவர் தாம் வாழ்வதற்கு அஞ்சினா யேல்

திருவின் ஆர வேதம் நான்கு ஐந்து தீ

வேல்வியோடு அங்கம் ஆறும்

மருவினார் வல்லவாழ் சொல்லுமா வல்லை

ஆய் மருவு நெஞ்சே

One can find a number of historical inscriptions inside the temple. There are references to the Thiruvalla Lord in Garuda Puranam and Matsya Puranam.

The other Thiru Vazhmarban temple in Malai Naatu Divya Desam is in Thiruvan Parisaram http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/04/thiruvazhmarban-in-thiruvanparisaram.html

NamAzhvar in his praise refers to a large number of Areca trees and Jasmine gardens around the temple. The Punnai, Magil and Madhavi flowers give a great fragrance to the devotees as they make their way to the temple. Here too, Vedic recital was a regular feature and compares their rendition to the roaring of the sea in high waves.  Namazhvar also refers to thick smoke from Vedic sacrifices that darken the sky.  Repeatedly he refers to the tall groves of Thiruvallaval and water lilies and lotus flowers growing in the water tanks of the temple. He also makes a mention of Sugarcane and Paddy fileds at Thiru Valla.

Festivals

10 day Festival in Poosam

Kathakali Festival is the most popular festival at this temple

Every Saturday morning, there is a special pooja

Contact PK Unnikrishnan Pothi/ Govindan Namboodhari  0469 2700191

How to reach Thiruvalla:

Thiruvalla is located about 30kms South of Kottayam on the Ernakulam-Kottayam-Kayankulam rail route. The temple is about 4kms from the railway station. An auto from the station to the Divya Desam will cost Rs.100/-.  There are buses every10minutes from Kottayam to Thiruvalla.

8. Thiru Kadithanam, Chenganaseri 

The Arputha Narayanan Divya Desam in Thiru Kadithanam is one of the important Kadigai Kshetrams. Legend has it that those who visit the Arputha Narayana Perumal Koil in Changanachery and stay here for at least one Kadigai (24minutes) will be liberated from all sins/curses. Also read http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/03/sholingur-narasimha-at-thiru-kadigai.html

Namazhvar praises the Lord as one seen with Lakshmi on his chest. He says that Vedic recital was a regular feature at Thiru Kadithanam. Kalpa trees were abound in large numbers.

அற்புதன் நாராயணன் அறி வாமணன்

நிற்பது மேவி இருப்பது என் நெஞ்சகம்

நில் புகழ் வேதியர் நான் மறை நின்று அதிர

கற்பகச் சோலைத் திரு கடித்தானமே

Sahadeva is said to have consecrated this temple. This is one of the special Krishna temples in India specifically dedicated for moksham.

There was a festival of dance here at this temple. The belief was that ladies dancing with buckets on top of their head and undertaking prayers to Lord Arputha Narayanan helped them conceive. 10day festival in Virchigam and Narasimha Jayanthi are celebrated in a grand way at the temple.

The temple is 4kms east of the Chenganancheri Railway Station (Kottayam-Kayankulam rail route)

Contact  Vasudevan Namboodari @  94972 22107 or 0481 2435711. An auto from the Chenganacheri Railway Station to the Divya Desam will cost Rs.100/-

9. Thiru Vithuvakkodu - Five Idols temple near Pattambi 

On the western banks of Baratha Puzha River, off the Pattambi – Guruvayur highway is the Uyavantha Perumal Divya Desam at Thiru Vithuvakkodu. The Lord has been praised by Kulasekara Azhvar. Arjuna, Dharmaputra, Bheema and Nakula/Sahadeva created an idol each for their daily poojas at this temple. The main Moolavar deity was installed by Arjuna.  Dharma Raja installed the idol on Southern side as did Nakula and Sahadeva. Bheema installed the idol of Vishnu on the Northern side.

Pleased with a rishi’s prayer, Kasi Viswanathar found himself a small place in the umbrella of the rishi. After his bath, the rishi found the umbrella broken and found a swayambu idol of Lord Shiva at this place. Later, a separate temple was built for Shiva. Hence, this place is referred to as the ‘5 idols’ temple.

Festivals

Janmashtami, Shivarathri are celebrated in a grand way.  Kalababhisekam is presented on Vaikasi Mrigaseesham

The temple is about 5kms South of Pattambi off the Palghat- Shoranur- Kozhikode rail route

Contact Ravichandran and Ramachandran Embranthari @  98460 92853

How to reach:

An auto from Pattambi Railway Station to this Divya Desam (about 7kms) and back will cost Rs.150/-.

10. Thiru Navai

Only Divya Desam in Kerala with a separate Sannidhi for Thaayar 

On the Northern Banks of Barathapuzha River is the Navai Mukundan Divya Desam, praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvar and Namazhvar.  The Lord is seen in an East Facing Standing Posture. On the other side of the river are temples for Lord Shiva and Brahmma. Hence this is said to be a Tri Murthy Sangamam 

Goddess Lakshmi and Gajendran wanted to adorn Lord Narayana with Lotus flowers. However, Gajendran could not locate the flowers and undertook prayers here to Narayana, who asked Goddess to stop plucking the Lotus flowers, thus providing an opportunity to Gajendran to adorn the lord with flowers. Goddess Lakshmi is said to have asked the Lord to provide her with an equal status at this temple. Hence, there is a separate sannidhi for the Goddess here, the only Divya Desam in Kerala.

Nava Yogis undertook penance at this place and are said to have installed the idol at this place. Hence, this place was referred to as Thiru ‘Naa’ ‘Vaai’.

Parasurama performed Tharpanam for his father at this place. Hence, this Kshetram is auspicious for performing ‘Pitru Tharpanam’.

Azhvaar Praise

Thiru Mangai in one of his 2 paasurams refers to Thiru Navai Lord alongside Koshtiyur Divya Desam and Thiru Naraiyur Naachiyar Koil.

“கம்ப மா களிறு அஞ்சிக் கலங்க, ஓர்

கொம்பு கொண்ட குறை கழல் கூத்தினை

கொம்பு உலாம் பொழில் கொட்டியுர்க் கண்டு பொய்

நம்பனைச்சென்று காண்டும் நாவாயுலே” -1856

In another verse, Thiru Mangai Azhvar refers to seeing the Thiru Navai Lord at Thiru Naraiyur

“தூ வாய புள் ஊர்ந்து வந்து, துறை வேழும்

மூவாமை, நல்கி, முதலை துணித்தானை

தேவாதிதேவனை, செங்கமலக் கண்ணானை

நாவாய் உளானை நறையூரில் கண்டேனே”- 1520

Festivals

10 day festival in April (14-23)

NamAzhvar's Praise of Thiru Navai Devotee

Devotees who think of him and invoke his blessings with sincere devotion will be blessed says Namazhvar in his opening verse in praise of the Lord of Thiru Navai.

அறுக்கும் வினையாயின ஆகத்து அவனை 

நிறுத்தும் மனத்து ஒன்றிய சிந்தையினார்க்கு 

வெறித்தன் மலர்ச் சோலைகள் சூழ் 

திரு நாவாய் 

குறுக்கும் வகை உண்டுகொலோ கொடியேற்கே 

Contact Narayana Namboodari 0494 2603747 or 93876 34946

How to reach

Thiru Navai is about 30kms West of Shoranur on the Palghat - Kozhikode rail route. Take Chennai Central-Mangalore Mail and get down at Kuttipuram Station (630am arrival). A local bus from outside the station will take you to the Divya Desam in 20minutes. Auto from Kuttipuram Station to Thiru Navai Divya Desam will cost Rs.200/-

Not many trains stop at Thiru Navaya Railway station. An auto from Navaya station to the Divya Desam (about 2kms) will cost Rs.30-40/-. Accommodation is available here opposite the temple.

Cab for Thiru Vithuvakodu and Thiru Navai: Santhosh @ 9846953270 / Sasi Thekkadil@8593087980

For cab to visit the 6 Divya Desams around Chenganur, contact: Anoop@ 94462 79788/85477 63079. Approximate charges to cover the 6 temples in one half of the day Rs. 1500.

Thanjai Maa Mani Divya Desam

60 years ago, there were two vibrant agraharams with traditionalists participating actively in Brahmotsavam and Desikar Utsavam at this Thiru Mangai Azhvaar praised Divya Desam on the 'Vennar Banks' North of Thanjavur

Pichai Bhattar managed three temples all alone for two decades and served devotionally for 55 years, Paricharkar Sampath served for over four decades in challenging times at a salary of a few 100s

Thanjai Maa Mani Divya Desam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/01/thanjai-maa-mani-koil-divya-desam.html), praised by Thirumangai Azhvaar in his very first decad in the Periya Thirumozhi as one with walls and groves, is located three kms from Thanjavur on the banks of Vennaar, a tributary of Cauvery.

எம்பிரான் எந்தை என்னுடைச் சுற்றம்

எனக்கு அரசு என்னுடை வாழ்நாள்

அம்பினால் அரக்கர் வெருக்கொள நெருக்கி

அவர் உயிர் செகுத்த எம் அண்ணல்

வம்புலாம் சோலை மா மதில்

தஞ்சை மாமணிக்  கோயிலே வணங்கி

நம்பிகாள் உய்ய நான் கண்டுகொண்டேன்

நாராயணா என்னும் நாமம்

Till 60 years ago, Thanjavur despite being a district headquarters comprising of Thiruvarur and Nagapattinam, was largely an underdeveloped town. One of the few landmarks, the Thanjavur Palace was in a dilapidated state. The finances of the Palace were in a terrible state. There was not a single college in town. Less than 10 cars plied on the roads of Thanjavur. Bullock Cart was the main form of transport within the town.

Sangeetha Mahal – A Fertiliser Godown

Sangeetha Mahal was used as a Storarge House of Fertilizer Urea.  There was nauseating smell when a visitor went inside and hence most stayed away. Saraswathi Mahal was only slightly better.  The now famous Big Temple was not tourist place and was also not one of devotional destination for the sannidhis were inhabited by bats that rushed out in large numbers on human entry. There were just three Gurukals to take care of the entire temple, one each for the Swami and Ambal Sannidhi and a third who took care of all the other sannidhis. Except for Thursday, there was very little crowd at the temple.

Collectors’ Efforts in the 1950s

It was only after brothers TK Sankara Vadivelu and Palaniappan became Collector, in successive terms, in the 1950s that development initiatives were undertaken says the 88 years K Ramanarayanan, who served for decades in the revenue department in Thanjavur.

They began by focusing on the revival of the Palace. During Sankara Vadivelu’s time as the Collector, he renovated the Sangeetha Mahal and brought the acoustics to old glory. His brother Palaniappan who was previously in Hyderabad succeeded him. Palaniappan had experienced the beauty of Safdarjung Museum and was shattered to see the Palace in bad shape. After a terrible cyclone struck the district in the 1950s, he sent a circular to all Tahsildars to collect pieces of art neglected and not in worship in different temples in the district. A number of idols were brought to the palace and showcased in the art gallery.

He also organised an annual art exhibition in Thanjavur. SS Vasan, whose movie Avvayar was run at that time, promoted the film in Thanjavur district and passed on some of the collections to help with the repairs at the Palace. The exhibition gave a face lift to the town. In 1965, Veda Narayanan handed over the collections from the last of the annual exhibitions to the Government clearing all the debts of the Palace.

The first college in Thanjavur

Sarfoji College was started and shortly after the Kundavi Nachiyar Girls College, the first for women. A medical college too was opened in the 1960s. Thus began the development of Thanjavur. Because of the presence of the Cauvery and  her Tributaries in the North, the town saw a lopsided development with growth skewed towards the South.

The Big Temple inhabited with Bats

The first real fillip to the Big Temple was when the Bats were driven out after Periyava suggested the lighting of 500 Ghee lamps every Friday. Over a decade later, Periyava was the inspirational force behind the conduct of the Kumbabhisekam after a gap of 177years, with the previous large scale repair works having been undertaken in 1803 by Sarfoji.10 lakh devotees visited the Big Temple on the occasion of the Kumbabhisekam and after. It was the biggest event for decades in a temple in Tamil Nadu. Later that decade, one saw another event of a grand scale with the construction of the Raja Gopuram in Srirangam.

The state of and the development of Thanjai Maa Mani Divya Desam is to be seen in light of scenario that existed in Thanjavur, especially at the Big Temple, at that time.

Pichai Bhattar - 5+ decades at the temple

Srinivas Bhattar, popularly referred to as ‘Pichai’ joined the temple in the early 1960s and served for almost 55 years till his death a couple of years back. For a large part, he received a salary of a few hundreds. When he received Rs. 20 a month as Thattu Kaasu, he saw it as a big bonus. To take care of the family, he also managed a few other temples in the nearby villages.

Till the 1960s, agraharam was vibrant at this Divya Desam and two at that – one in the South and the other North of the temple. The traditional residents at the agraharam financially supported the festivals. But beginning the 60s and more into the 70s, a lot of them sold the property in the agraharam and went away seeking greener pastures. During those decades, when the agraharams were vibrant, the Lord was carried on shoulders around the four streets of the Divya Desam. But in recent times, as with most other remote temples in Tamil Nadu, there has been shortage of staff here as well and the Lord now moves on wheels even during the annual Brahmotsavam. In those years, Veda Parayanam too was a regular feature at the temple, especially during Desikar Utsavam.

Srinivasa ‘Pichai’ Bhattar was the man who was the vital link between the Lord and the devotees even in the financially tough times. As a single Bhattar, in the 1960s and 70s, he would shuttle between the three temples – Singa Perumal Koil, Manikundram Perumal and Neela Megha Perumal - helping devotees with darshan. This continued much into this decade as well and till the very end was devotionally committed to the Lords of this Divya Desam.

In a verse in the Periya Thirumozhi, Thirumangai Azhvaar refers to the Lord (Narasimha) who tore open the chest of Hiranyakashipu as residing in Thanjai Maa Mani Koil. He also refers to the second of the temples as Manikundram.

என் செய்கேன் அடியேன் உரையீர் இதற்கு

என்றும் என் மனத்தே இருக்கும் புகழ்

தஞ்சை ஆளியை பொன்பெயரோன் நெஞ்சம்

அன்று இடந்தவனை தழவே புரை

மின் செய் வாள் அரக்கன் நகர் பாழ்பட

சூழ் கடல் சிறை வைத்து  இமையோர் தொழும்

பொன்செய் மால் வரையை மணிகுன்றினை

அன்றி என் மனம் போற்றி என்னாதே

His son Narasimha Bhattar began supporting his father from the age of 15. He has now been at the temple for the last 35 years. But for someone committed to serving the Lord in three temples at this Divya Desam, there was no girl who came forward to marry him and thus at 50, he remains unmarried living in a small ''few 100s sft' house opposite the Manikundram Perumal Temple and serving the Thanjai Maa Mani Lords day in day out remains his only Love in Life.

60 years in the agraharam

85 year old Rukmini Maami has been a resident of this Divya Desam for close to 60 years having come here with her husband in 1962. With all her children and their families having moved to larger cities, she and her husband are the only couple left in the agraharam. She is still active with those vibrant years from the 60s still fresh in her memory.

She remembers the huge quantity of Thaligai comprising of Kadambam rice and Chakkarai Pongal that was presented to the Lord during the big Utsavams such as the Brahmotsavam and the Desikar Utsavam. The doors of the house that stretched from the agraraham in the South to the Eastern entrance of the temple were always open. Relatives and friends would come from afar for these utsavams. 100s of devotees would enjoy the sacred food after the procession of the Lord around the four streets. 

Her family supported these utsavams in a big way and ensured that the festivals at the Singa Perumal Koil did not stop for want of funds. However as with others in the agraharam, most of her relatives too chose the corporate world as their future and left this Divya Desam over a period of time leaving her and her husband as the sole long standing couple here.

Sadly, the Brahmotsavam and street processions have come to a halt at the Manikundram Divya Desam after the flag post was damaged a decade ago. The authorities are hoping that this will be revived soon.

Transformation at Neela Megha Perumal Koil
After the death of Pichai Bhattar, the Prince has appointed a separate Bhattar - Sampath Bhattar - to take care of the Neelamegha Perumal temple, the first in several decades.  Within a matter of 12 months, one finds a dramatic change in the temple with the Moolavar Lord now seen in glittering Jewels and Gold Kreedam and Kavacham, thanks to the interest taken by the new priest, who was previously in another temple within the Palace administration. It looks like Neela Megha Perumal temple will see more upgrades in the times to come with the priest looking at continuous improvements through donor contributions.

Paricharakar for 4 decades through the tough times

Paricharaka Sampath Iyengar too served at the Thanjai Maa Mani Divya Desam for four decades from the early 1960s, also at a monthly salary in the 100s. In a rare turn of event, his grandson 25 year old Sridhar has joined the temple after completing his graduation, purely in a gesture of continuing the service. 

           Sridhar Paricharakar

Right from his school and college days, he had been supporting his grandfather at the temple. He had also taken special interest in decorating the Lord even as a young boy. Now he is actively involved in alankaram during Brahmotsavams and also during the now popular 23 Garuda Sevai in Thanjavur. The good news now is that both Narasimha Bhattar and Sridhar Paricharakar are well paid by the Prince.

Mei Kavalar and his devotional commitment

An integral part of the survival of this Divya Desam was the Mei Kavalar P Varadarajan, like the one in Athanur Divya Desam not too far away from here. Now 61, he joined the temple about 25 years ago at a salary of Rs. 310. His was the role to open the temple door at the scheduled time in the morning and evening. He was also responsible for the cleanliness of the temple. He also carried the Lord on his shoulder when required and also carried the torch lamp – Theevatti- during processions. Coming off from farming in the village of Perumagalur, he is delighted to have got the opportunity to serve the Lord in a Divya Desam. 

It was not the financial lure but the devotional attraction and to be with the Lord all days of the year that helped him stick like a glue these two and a half decades.He retired last year having received a very healyhy salary from the temple. Subsequent to this retirement, he now serves as the watchman at the temple.

Almost the entire service personnel are in synch when it comes to the role played by the Rajah of Thanjavur in preserving these ancient temples (88 of them are under their administration). Both in difficult times and now when things are much better, the Palace has done its best for these service personnel. And that is truly commendable, especially at a time when the HR & CE continues to pay in 100s to priests in the several 1000s of temples administered by them in Tamil Nadu.

As with many other Divya Desams in TN, there is hope that the original inhabitants will one day come back to the agraharam, the festivals will become grand again with participation from the traditional Vaishnavites. For now, it seems a distant hope. 

Maddur Ugra Narasimha

A temple where Narasimha is seen in the angry posture at the time of the killing of Hiranyakashipu

Lord Varadaraja North of Ugra Narasimha temple is similar to the one in Kanchipuram

Located 15kms West of Doddamallur Aprameya Perumal Temple (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/07/doddamallur-aprameya-navaneetha-krishna.html) on the Bangalore Mysore Highway is the centuries old Ugra Narasimha temple in Maddur, where the Lord is seen in angry posture with Hiranyakashipu on his lap.Garuda and Prahalada, both in standing posture, are seen flanking the Lord.

When Arjuna requested Krishna for a darshan of Narasimha Avatara, he was told that the avathara could not be replayed but directed Brahmma to create and install the idol of Narasimha in a posture depicting the destruction of the asura.

Kadamba Rishi created a theertham, had bath and undertook penance invoking the blessings of the Lord. Hence this place was historically referred to as Kadamba Kshetram.

 The Hoysalas renovated the temple that one sees in the current form and structure.

Once upon a time, medicines were made available here for all health issues. Hence this place was referred to as ‘madhu’ that over time became Maddur. Even today those with skin issues and with mental fear are believed to be relieved from these issues after invoking the blessings of the Lord and once the sacred water is splashed on their face. 

On Avani Shravanam, the Lord is decorated with Vennai Alankaram. 15 day Brahmotsavam is celebrated in Chitrai. There are two Thayar Sannidhis at the temple – Sowmya Nayaki and Narasimha Nayaki. A special feature at the temple is the posture of Yashoda holding her child Krishna by her chest. Hanuman is seen in a respectful posture before Lord Rama at a separate sannidhi.

To the North of the temple is the Hoysala Period Varadaraja Perumal temple. The story goes that King Vishnu Varadan’s mother could not make it to Kanchi to have darshan of Varadar as she could not see. The King brought the architects from Kanchipuram and built an idol similar to the one in Kanchi. After a 48 day pooja invoking the blessings of the Lord, the King brought his mother to the temple. And to his mother’s delight, she had darshan of Varadaraja Perumal. 

Hence this Lord came to be known as Kanchi Kan Varadarajar. Similar to Kanchipuram one has to climb 27 steps to reach the Moolavar Sannidhi. Varadar Jayanthi is celebrated in a grand way on Hastham. On the day Ugra Narasimha is decorated with Vennai Alankaram, an abhishekam takes place here for Varadarajar.

The temple is open between 8am – 12noon and 5pm-8pm. Contact Balaji Bhattar @ 90362 92265

Doddamallur Aprameya Navaneetha Krishna Temple

Committed to the devotional service of Lord Aprameya, Pancharatra Agama expert Radhakrishna Bhattarchaya refused lucrative overseas offers and has served the Lord for 40years without an official posting – He is set to receive a Doctorate Degree this Saturday for his expertise in the Agamas

His father served the temple with utmost devotion for over seven decades, a majority of which at a monthly salary of Rs. 3

A Temple that celebrates the Avathara Utsavam of both Desikar and Manavala Mamuni

Radhakrishna Bhattachar is touching 70. His legs have weakened after over four decades of standing long hours at the Doddamallur Aprameya Perumal temple, one that is renowned for the crawling Navaneetha Krishna. Yet his devotional service has not reduced over the decades as he takes slow steps towards the Aprameya Perumal Sannidhi for the morning Satru Murai. On most days over the years, his stay at the temple has extended to 1pm as tourist and devotee crowd make their way to the temple on their way to Mysore along the National Highway.

Starting from the offer in the mid 1970s, he has let go several overseas opportunities that have come his way over the last four decades and has lived his life with the sole purpose of serving the Lord at Doddamallur, inspired by the verses of Purandaradasa who sung praise of Lord Aprameya.

His father Govindaraja Bhattar served at the temple for over seven decades from 1942, starting with a monthly salary of Rs. 3 and ending 71 years later (when he passed away) with a salary of Rs. 1500 much like O. S Seshadri Bhattar at Kapisthalam Divya Desam, who received Rs. 16 as monthly salary for several decades (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/07/kapisthalam-seshadri-bhattar.html).

A 5 year Agama course in Mysore
Soon after Radhakrishna Bhattar received Dikshai at the age of 16, he joined his father at the temple supporting him in the daily activities. Having completed his schooling in Doddamallur, Radhakrishna Bhattar studied Pancharatra Agama for five years at the Mysore Sanskrit College, the most renowned college in those days. From the stalwarts of those days, he learnt Desikar Prabhandham, Mimamsa and other Mantras.  The jeer of Parakala Mutt took a personal liking for the devotional conduct of the then young man in the 1970s and would ask him to recite the Desikar Prabhandham. 

No official posting for Radhakrishna till 2013

There was only one official posting at the temple and since his father held that, Radhakrishna Bhattar could only offer support activities and for much of his life has not been an official staffer of the temple. In the mid 1970s, when Radhakrishna Bhattar was in his 20s, he was offered a posting at the Pittsburg Perumal temple, an offer that was so lucrative that few would have refused.

His father, who was on a monthly salary of Rs. 3 was keen that his son accept the offer as it would have given great financial stability and growth to the family and tried his best to pursue his son to accept the offer but the son’s mind lay elsewhere even at that young age. The peace of mind that Radhakrishna had experienced in the first two decades of his life serving the Lord helped him forge a strong devotional bonding with the temple and he simply refused to leave Lord Aprameya and the crawling and handsome child like Navaneetha Krishna.

Not only did he instantly reject the offer, he also decided that he would not leave the Lord of Doddamallur at any point of time in life to serve at an overseas temple. In the ensuing decades, several other offers from temples in different continents came his way but Radhakrishna Bhattachar resisted the temptation to make the move away from Lord Aprameya. In fact most residents in the agraharam in his age group moved away from the town in the 1970s and 80s. Many of them went on to hold top posts in their lives including the head of HMT, BEML, Police (DGP) and one in the atomic energy space.

Radhakrishna Bhattar, for his part, also refused full time jobs within the state including a Professor’s posting at the Mysore Govt College, for he did not want a life outside of the temple. For over two decades, he taught part time at a local school and later also taught agamas and sculptures in a college.

It was this devotional commitment that helped the popularity of the temple grow over the last few decades. During the harvest season, the farmers in all the neighbouring villages would present their first offering at the feet of this Bhattar family, such was the regard they had for the family. 

The Legend

In the Brahmanda Purana, Lord Aprameya has been described in 12 Adyayams. Inscriptions dating back to 400AD refer to the temple. Lord Aprameya also finds mention in other historical scriptures. The story goes that when one dug three feet at this place, one got pure sand. Hence it was referred to as ‘Manalur’ (Maavalur in Kannada) which in later period became Malloor.  Another story goes that King Sarangadara ruled over 20 villages in this region. When once the opposition forces over powered him and cut him into pieces, he invoked the blessings of Lord Aprameya and to the surprise of everyone, his hands came back. Hence this place was called ‘Molaitha’ Ooru.

The Moolavar Lord is seen in an East facing standing posture with a conch and chakra. Aravinda Valli Thaayar is seen in a separate sannidhi. There are also sannidhis for Vedantha Desikar and Manavala Mamunigal.  

During the Brahmotsavam, the Lord is carried on the Vahanas around the four streets of Dodda Mallur.

A once Vibrant Agraharam

Not so long ago till the early part of the second half of the 20^th century, there was a vibrant agaraharam opposite the temple with over a 100 traditional families residing in the street. It was such an integral part of the town that all communication from here went with a reference to the agraharam of Doddamallur.

Historically, there were four Perumal temples and four Shiva temples in each of the four sides. Gopalakrishna Temple in the East,  Janardhana in the West, Rama in the South and Lakshmi Narasimha in the North.  Arkeswara Temple in the East, Kalyana Natheswara in the West and Varadeswara in the South and Kaileswara in the North.There are several inscriptions within the temple in the inner prakara.

In recognition of the contribution of the improvement initiatives at the temple, there is a stone image of a Vijayanagara ruler.

Festivals

A Grand Brahmotsavam continues to be celebrated in Chitrai with Chariot Festival on Hastham. It is the fortnight in the year when almost all the traditionalists congregate in the agraharam. A number of cultural initiatives especially for children have been initiated by Radhakrishna Bhattar around the Krishna Jayanthi Utsavam. A 4 day Pavitrotsavam  in Avani is also celebrated . Unlike most of the temples in Tamil Nadu, both the Vedantha Desikar and Manavala Mamuni Utsavams are celebrated in a grand way at this temple. 

A continuing piece of historical tradition is that the temple closes for the day when there is a death in the agraharam.

The official posting - Takes over from his father
Only after the death of his father in 2013, did Radhakrishan Bhattar get the posting in the temple, over five decades after he began performing service at the temple, supporting his father. Interestingly, there are notices at different locations at the temple that direct devotees to present ‘Thattu Kaasu’ only in the official Hundials!!! In the years that Radhakrishna Bhattar has performed service and his special connect with the devotees at large, the annual hundi collection in the temple has gone up from Rs.40000 to Rs. 40 Lakhs but as with temples in Tamil Nadu, the salary of the priest has remained abysmally low.

In recognition of his four plus decades of devotional service at the temple, promotion of spiritual activities and his expertise and presentations on the Pancharatra agama, he is being conferred a Doctorate this Saturday (July 27) jointly by a University in Bangalore and in the US. 

Quick Facts

Moolavar: Aprameya Perumal

Thayar    : Aravinda Valli Thayar

Separate Sannidhi: Crawling Navaneetha Krishna seen with butter in his hand

The temple is open from 730am-1pm and 430pm to 8pm. Contact: 080-29783127

How to reach

Doddamallur is about 60kms from Bangalore on the Mysore Highway, 3kms after Channapatna. From Channapatna Station, an auto to the temple will cost Rs. 70 (96636 70125 Arasu).

Share autos are available from the bus stand. Express bus may not stop at Doddamallur.