Brihadeeswarar Temple Aippasi Sathaya Utsavam

Celebrating Raja Raja Chozha

The Legendary Chozha King provided Ethir Sevai to Peruvudayar and Periya Nayaki on the Rishabham on Saturday evening

When Babaji Rajah Bhonsle took over the mantle as the Trustee in the mid 1980s, the Brihadeeswarar temple in Thanjavur was in a bad financial state. 1984 and 85 had been two tragic years for the Thanjavur Palace. Babaji Rajah Bhonsle was still in his teens when he first lost his father, and then the very next year his grandfather Rajaram Rajah Saheb, who had been the Prince for over five decades throwing the teenager into the deep end and with the onerous task of managing 88 temples under the Palace’s fold. Unfortunately, for the new Prince, this takeover came during a terrible phase for temples in TN, one when original inhabitants of agraharams in various temple towns had begun leaving their hereditary locations seeking greener pastures in cities. The situation at the 88 temples for which he was the hereditary trustee was grim. There were no devotees in sight, income into the temple was minimal, festivals and their grandeur had come to a halt and the priests lived a financially challenged life.  The overall mood among the priests and service personnel was extremely negative with salary not having been paid for over a year.

Exactly 40 years after he took over, what one witnessed on Saturday (Nov 1) bore no resemblance to those bleak dark decades of the 70s and 80s and is a transformation of a monumental proportion. It was Aippasi Sathayam and the day to celebrate the greatness of Raja Raja Chozhan, the King who built the Brihadeeswarar temple. The entire temple complex was packed with several thousands of devotees a far cry from the early years of Babaji Rajah Bhonsle.

Roads leading to the temple had to be blocked on all sides such was the devotee crowd thronging the temple. Inside the temple, there were multiple events with cultural programmes to lectures on the greatness of the legendary Chozha King. The first half of the day was marked by an Abhishekam for Swami. At the Nataraja Mandapam, one set of priests had begun decorating Peruvudayar and Periya Nayaki atop the Silver Rishabha Vahanam while another set worked on the alankaram of birthday boy Raja Raja Chozhan and his wife and their son Rajendra Chozhan.

Political leverage of high profile events

As is the trend these days, politicians try their best to leverage such profile events. Just past 5pm, scores of two wheelers and cars raced past buses at abnormal speeds that left the general public shocked. Shouting slogans in praise of their leaders, young boys carrying flags brought public vehicles to a standstill. Even worse, teenagers stood outside of the car even as it sped at break neck speed towards the Big Temple. And when they reached the temple entrance, they did not make their way for darshan. Instead they went towards the statue of Raja Raja Chozhan, garlanded him and left the place.

The devotee crowd swarmed the temple as the clocked ticked past 6pm. A set of them stood in front of the big Nandi and invoked his blessings. Another group made their way to the long queue to the Moolasthanam for a darshan of Peruvudayar. In the South Prakara, the speakers were extolling the greatness of Raja Raja Chozha and his contribution to Thanjavur. As is the trend these days, the longest queue was for the distribution of food as devotees waited patiently to collect their plate. Unfortunately, on such big days, the beautiful greenery around the temple becomes a mess as people sit in large numbers on the grass undermining the huge effort that goes into creating and maintaining the temple. 

A 20 Page Utsavam Invitation!!!

From the time when utsavams had stopped at the temple in the second half of the previous century, the colourful invitation for this two day festival ran into almost 20 pages with acknowledgments for politicians and the like. The procession was to start at 6pm as per the invitation but in such high profile events it is rare that the schedule is adhered to.

The nadaswaram troupe arrived ahead of the deeparathanai but the devotional music for the evening was taken over by the highly devotional udal members. It is past 7.30pm when the screen at the mandapam opens for the big deeparathanai. A huge crowd had gathered in for this moment but once again the focus turned to VIPs and judges with priests having to accord a special mariyathai to them with silk shawls!!!

It is past 8pm when Periya and Periya Nayaki make their way from the mandapam towards the wheeled vehicle that is ready for them. There is non stop clicking of photos and videos that has become the order of the day in such utsavams.

Shiva Adiyar presents Raja Raja's greatness

Raja Raja Chozha and his wife along with their son Rajendra lead the procession providing Ethir Sevai to the divine couple. Another Deeparathanai at the Eastern Gopuram and everything is set for the long procession around the four Raja Veethis of Thanjavur.  At the start of the procession, an adiyar read out the historical greatness of Raja Raja Chozha and the reason for this celebration much to the delight of the devotees. 

A big transformation in Saivite temples in the last few years has been dominating presence of Shiva Adiyars. They have now become an integral part of utsavams participating in good numbers during the street processions. The udal members have been a revelation. At the Jambukeswarar temple in Thiruvanaikaval, they present the udal during the pancha prakara utsavam, at the Kapaleeswarar temple in Mylapore, they have been out beating the traditional nadaswaram troupe. On this big evening at the Big Temple in Thanjavur, the procession stayed alive thanks to the continuous and non stop presentation of these udal members. An interesting feature of the udal troupe in all these temples is the presence of young girls who are initiated early on into a devotional way of life. This is a very physically demanding activity but when devotion is high the physical pain is forgotten. 

The procession around the four Raja Veethis of Thanjavur on this evening of Aippasi Sathayam is a day to remind ourselves of the great contribution of Raja Raja Chozha and how this Chozha region flourished thanks to his initiatives. Unfortunately, on this big celebratory occasion, people paid utter disregard to the great king as they waded through the procession on their two wheelers and cars. The police personnel accompanied the procession but remained mute spectators as the non stop flow of vehicles on both sides of the road disrupted the procession. 

The street procession at the Big Temple is around the four Raja Veethis with shops and complexes having a large presence. Hence, there were not too many presentations of thattu and flowers as is the case in festival street processions. 

Inside the cars, outstation travellers pointed to the procession of the Great Chozha. Across this historic city that saw its greatness rise to its peak during the Chozha period there are large sized posters of Raja Raja Chozhan reminding one of the contribution he made to his capital city. 

Three hours after the start of the procession, Raja Raja Chozha made his way back into the temple. Even as Periya and Periya Nayaki followed him into the eastern entrance with the clock ticking to 11pm, Pattimandram Raja was delivering his verdict on the contribution of Raja Raja Chozha – was it to the people or to the temple!!!

He spoke about the Uyyakondan Canal, the construction of Saivite temple after his victory in Lanka, making huge contribution to the temples after every victory, how he wanted people to participate in the running of the kingdom laying down guidelines on who could contest in the elections and of course how he built this great temple that has left visitors in awe of the construction.

If the Thanjavur region has flourished over the centuries, a lot of the credit must go to Raja Raja Chozhan. And the procession on this Saturday evening was an occasion to celebrate his gigantic contribution to the Chozha kingdom.  In his childhood, Babaji Rajah Bhonsle had grown up seeing the dark side of the Big Temple inhabited by bats. There had been no ghee available to even light the lamps in the Sannidhis. On this momentous evening, the entire temple town was lit with colourful light with the entire temple complex basking in brightness bringing a smile to the Prince of Thanjavur. Swami and Ambal were seen glittering jewellary. He is happy that in his four decades at the helm, he has been able to revive the fortunes of the temple so greatly built by Raja Raja Chozha. More importantly, he has been able to orchestrate a two day large scale event to remind devotees worldwide of the legendary contribution of Raja Raja Chozha. 

And even as the clock ticked past 11pm late on Saturday evening, devotees continued to stroll into the temple for a final glimpse of Peruvudayar and Periya Nayaki sans the Rishabham. And to thank Raja Raja Chozha for making Thanjavur a global destination with this architectural wonder. 

Aravoor Karkodakeswarar temple restoration 2024

In a dilapidated state two years ago, this Kaala Sarpa Dosha Nivarana temple has seen a remarkable turnaround with like minded devotees coming forward to keep the HR & CE at bay and revive its fortunes with a Thiruppani that cost over a crore

Santhanam Gurukal is touching 70 and is a delighted man. It is exactly a month after the consecration (July 12) of the Mangalambika Samedha Karkodakeswarar temple in Aravoor, near Nidamangalam. In December 2021, this section had featured a story on the dilapidated state of the Mangalambika Samedha Karkodakeswarar temple in Aravoor(https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2021/12/aravoor-karkodakeswarar-temple.html). 

At that time, the outer walls had been completely damaged, there was no electricity inside the temple and the prakara was abound with bushes. There was a thick growth of plantation atop the Ambal and Swami Sannidhis. The brick walled madapalli was in ruins. There had been no repair works of any kind for several decades and consecration had not taken place in a century. Adding to the woes was the fact that the HR & CE was pushing hard to take over the temple from the Thanjavur based trustees.

                                  Santhanam Gurukal (Aug 12)

From no hopes to a Grand Revival

At that time, Santhanam Gurukal did not labour positive hopes of this kind of a turnaround for he had multiple battles on hand and did not foresee an immediate resolution. He himself was living in an old house that dated back to the middle of the 20th century. But this Monday morning (August 12), he sported a big smile as he opens the Sannidhis. The 48day mandalabisekam is still on and is busy with the pooja activities in this phase. The good news for him is that the crowd is back at the temple bringing back positive vibration to this remote village temple. His forefathers had performed pooja at this temple for a century and he is delighted that he has been able to see the consecration in his time.

Taking this writer around the temple on a morning when the sun is out early, he says that there are at least a 100 people for the Pradosham. He expects a full four Kaalam pooja through the night for the Maha Sivarathri in 2025. Neivedyam is being presented every day for the deities in good quantity with the once dilapidated madapalli now sporting a new look. 

The village is named as Aravoor (aravam for snake in tamil) and he says that after the Mandalabishekam, devotees are likely to visit for Rahu-Kethu Parikaram as well as Kaala Sarpa Dosham Nivaranam. 

A Devotee undertakes the entire Thiruppani responsibility

His namesake Mayil Udayar Santhanam, a long-time resident of Nidamagalam belonged to a team of temple service personnel under the leadership of former Chief Election Commissioner Gopalswamy and this team had restored a 100 temples in the region and in 2021 had come forward to take up the restoration exercise of this temple too. He has been a resident of the East Sannidhi street at Nidamangalam, where he had supported and renovated the Santhana Ramar temple earlier. When this writer met him in December 2021, he was vocal that the trustees from Thanjavur should hand him the renovation orders so his team could get it back to shape.

                                New Temple Entrance - August 2024

It was he who convinced one of the trustee brothers (Sundara Murugan) regarding the importance of the revival of this temple both for his family as well as for the villagers. The Gurukal had stuck to the temple during its darkest decades and devotee Santhanam was keen to give this temple a new look to also make the Gurukal happy.

Devotees contribute their bit

It was also Santhanam and his team that kept the HR & CE at bay having had experience of having handling renovations in many temples. He too sports a happy smile on this morning as he sits at his home opposite that of the Bhattar of the Santhanarama temple in Nidamangalam and talks to this writer on how he went about organising the renovation activities “Devotees from across the region contributed whatever they could to this Thiruppani. There were those who donated in lakhs and several of them in hundreds and thousands. Every contribution was important for this Thiruppani to become a success. Interestingly, almost all the farmers in the Aravoor belt donated their bit and were keen for the temple to be revived."

He says that he has to now take care of the archaka salary and the monthly maintenance expenses "Our immediate next plan is to create a Nandavanam so flowers can be presented to Swami and Ambal every day and we are working towards that.”

                                           Devotee Mayil Udayar Santhanam

Rebuilding Gurukal's home

Devotee Santhanam is also keen to rebuild the archaka’s house for him to have a comfortable life at this old age “Santhanam Gurukal has been the backbone of this entire exercise. He stood by us and gave us the confidence that we could do this. This temple is very close to his heart having been associated for over half a century and he wanted the festivities to be revived.”

Dilapidated temple complex in Dec'21 - Swami Vimana, Madapalli, temple entrance

Karungal Thiruppani

In 2022, the entire dilapidated temple was brought down and over the last two years it has been rebuilt from scratch. The Karungal stones, that were an integral part of the temple, have been restored as is with a stapathy from Thoothukudi taking care of the Karungal Thiruppani. 

There had been parts of the temple that were brick construction including the Madapalli. Those zones in the temple complex have been restored in its same form.

Narayana Bhattar of Santhanarama Temple, Nidamangalam (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2021/12/nidamangalam-santhanaramar-temple.html), who has just had a knee replacement, performed the consecration of the Rama and Lakshmana Sannidhi devotionally bearing the severe leg pain he has had over the last couple of months (this temple houses historical centuries old idols of Rama Sita and Lakshmana as well as Hanuman).

                              New Temple Complex - August 2024

The Pillayar Sannidhi too had been completely damaged and this too has been rebuilt. As this is a temple for Sarpa Dosha Nivarthi, there has been a new idol installed at the entrance of the Swami Sannidhi. There is also a separate sannidhi for Hanuman, Bairvar, Maha Lakshmi and Murugar.

Next Year's Maha Sivarathri

Santhanam Gurukal is already looking forward to a big night on Maha Sivarathri next year and believes devotees from all the neighbouring villages will congregate for the Utsavam "There were at least 25 archanais for the previous Pradosham, an indication that devotees are coming back to the temple."

Continues to live in a small old styled house

He had been given a large tract of farming land in this village in the last century and he continues to cultivate paddy there. He and his wife lead a contended life with performing pooja being at the core of his life “My appa passed away when I was in Class VI and I have been performing pooja ever since for the last six decades. My entire life has centered around this temple even when it had become dilapidated.”

The fortunes of this temple has been turned around similar to the one at the Varadaraja Perumal temple, Ayyur (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2022/08/ayyur-varadaraja-perumal-samprokshanam.html) with the renovation of both these being anchored by devotees. The home of Sowrirajan Bhattar at Pinna Vaasal had been completely refurbished by a devotee. It is hoped that Santhanam Gurukal’s home too would be rebuilt for it is he who has stayed through the entire dark phase for this temple in the late 20th Century and through the first two decades of this century.

The Gurukal's current focus though is on seeing through the mandalabishekam over the next fortnight as he heads back to prepare one padi Chakkarai Pongal Neivedyam for Swami and Ambal on this Monday morning.

The Karkodakeswarar temple in Aravoor is yet another case of how a real threat of a HR & CE take over has been kept away in a remote village through the efforts of like minded devotees who came together along with the trustee to restore this historical temple pooling together Rs. 1.10crores to undertake a two year restoration exercise.

Aravoor is four kms North East of Nidamangalam off the Tiruvarur highway. An auto from Nidamangalam costs Rs. 150 (Ph.: 75025 44840).

Devotees wanting to visit the new look temple may call Santhanam Gurukal on @ 9790473398 in advance.

Tenkasi Kasi Viswanathar Temple Gurukals

Shortage of Brahmin Priests in Remote Temples

With the impending retirement of Kailasa Gurukal, the huge Pandya Period temple will be left with just Senthil Bhattar as the only Priest with the responsibility of managing all the Sannidhis

 60 year old Kailasa Gurukal- Served for 3 decades

One of the two Chief Priests who is currently managing the pooja at the huge Kasi Viswanathar temple in Tenkasi is touching 60 and due for retirement in a few months. Kailasa Bhattar, who began his association with the temple in the early 1990s as a support priest, has expressed his intent to not continue his service after retirement given the souring relationship with EO Murugan and the other Chief Priest Senthil Bhattar.

Till the construction of the tall Raja Gopuram, priests from the Kutralanathar temple and the Kasi Viswanathar temple jointly managed the pooja kramas at the two temples amongst themselves but the services in the two temples were split and separated following the consecration. In the not too distant past there were four  priests at the Kasi Viswanathar temple but this has now halved this year. With Kailasa Gurukal's non inclination to continue after retirement, there will be just the one Chief Priest at this Pandya Period temple in the heart of Tenkasi. Despite a booming devotee crowd and an ever increasing Thattu Kaasu, not many young agama graduates are ready to take up service as archakas in remote temples administered by the HR & CE. And that is not a healthy sign going forward.

Legend

When Pandya King Parakrama wanted to construct a temple and brought a lingam from Kasi, Lord Shiva appeared in his dream and asked him to follow the ants and build the temple where the ants finally rested. He felt blessed to build this temple dedicated to Kasi Viswanathar and Ulagammal at Tenkasi.  There was a Perumal Sannidhi in between the two but with the differences between the Saivites and Vaishnavites, this was taken out and installed in a separate temple South of the Kasi Viswanathar temple. It is there that one now finds the Murugar Sannidhi.

Celebrations are now grand at this temple with Thiru Kalyanam on Aippasi Uthiram, Brahmotsavam in Maasi and Theppam on Avani Moolam. Contrasted with the quiet period in the 1970s and 80s, huge crowds now throng the temple on these festive occasions.

From Bangalore to Tenkasi

Interestingly, both these priests do not have any historical connection with the Kasi Viswanathar temple.  Senthil Bhattar, who will be the sole Priest at this temple after Kailasa Gurukal's retirment, had for long been associated with the Kailasa Ashramam performing Sri Chakra pooja at the Raja Rajeswari temple in Bangalore in the 1990s. He had also been at an overseas temple for a brief period. After completion of class V, he joined the Dharmapuram Atheenam Patshala where he learnt the Agamas.

His appa was instrumental in the development of the Pillayar temple in NGO Colony, Tirunelveli making it a popular temple among the residents of that town in the second half of the previous century.

                          Senthil Bhattar - Now in his late 40s

When the HR & CE called for applications for the post of a priest at the temple in Tenkasi just under a couple of decades ago, his appa keen for him to return to TN so as to be nearer to him, directed Senthil Bhattar to apply and thus he made his way to the Kasi Viswanathar temple as an archaka in 2006.

Military School hopes dashed, joins Agama Patshala

Sitting at the Kulasekara Nathar temple, a sub temple of Kasi Viswanathar temple where he is the Raksha Bandhanam priest for the Kumbabhisekam, 46year old Senthil Bhattar recalled to this writer earlier this week as to how his childhood plan was to get into a military school but things turned out otherwise “I had learned spoken English and was to get into a military school, but even before the results, my appa got me enrolled into the Patshala so I could continue the archaka service. Ever since my graduation from the Patshala, I have been involved with temples over the last three decades.”

Having joined the temple at a salary of around Rs. 2000 in 2006, he now gets close to Rs. 20000 “I never thought I would be performing archaka service in this huge temple but from out of nowhere, Kasi Viswanathar brought me here and has taken good care of me financially over the last two decades” says Senthil Bhattar, happy at the way things have turned out for him in his life.

He is also the one who is accompanying EO Murugan seeking donor support for the Thiruppani works at the Kasi Viswanathar temple. He continues to be associated with the Kailasa Ashrama that had given him the break in the 1990s.

His 16year old son is learning the agamas at the Patshala in Thuthukudi and he is hopeful that he too would continue in this traditional line of service.

Kailasa Gurukal’s surprise entry in the 1990s

Hailing from Papankulam, about 25kms from Tenkasi, Kailasa Gurukal completed his class X from a school in Pathamadai, where at the Shiva temple his appa performed archaka service at a miniscule salary. 

It is Manickavachakar’s Guru Pooja evening and its Kailasa Gurukal’s day of duty at the Swami Sannidhi. After completing the evening pooja and sitting in front of the Durga Sannidhi, he told this writer as to how financially challenging his life had been in his childhood “My appa moved from one temple to another in the Tirunelveli region in the hope of higher salary but all through my childhood while he performed service in many temples, the salary remained low and we had a tough time in the 1970s.”

This Archaka gets daily wages of Rs. 30!!!!

Given this background, he made his way away from temple service into the corporate world working in Chenganacheri for a brief period and then in the fertilizer sector till the early 1990s. In a surprise turnaround, Chidambareswarar Bhattar, the Sthaneegam asked him to provide support service at the at the Kasi Viswanathar temple “I came to this temple in 1993 and performed archaka service assisting him till 1999 when he passed. And then as a replacement to him, I worked at a daily wage of Rs. 30.”

Goes to Court to secure appointment order

Though he had played the role of a support priest for six years and then donned the role of a temporary priest on daily wages for seven years, the permanent order was not forthcoming “I was a strict priest who followed the processes and this did not go well with the EOs of the time. When I went to court and secured the High Court order for my appointment, they deliberately posted me at the then dilapidated Kulasekara Nathar temple. HR & CE expected me to leave after sending me to a deserted temple. There were no devotees and no thattu kaasu at that time and it was financially very challenging in that early phase but that direction to the dilapidated temple turned out to be a blessing in disguise as for the first time in several decades, a devotee from Chennai came forward to undertake all the repair works at a cost of Rs. 1crore all by himself and consecration of the temple took place during my service there. I look back with great pride that the vibrant temple that one sees today and the overflowing crowd at that temple is a direct outcome of the Kumbabhisekam I performed at that temple.”

“Following the successful consecration, when a new EO took charge at the Kasi Viswanathar temple, he learned about my initiatives at the Kulasekara Nathar temple and finally provided me the permanent appointment order at this huge temple.”

Salary Increase pending for several years

The 7th pay commission salary has been due for several years but his salary has not been revised and remained at Rs. 8000. But he is happy that he has been able to give a financially secure childhood to his two daughters, something that he himself had not enjoyed during his schooling days. 

In the current Thiruppani works taking place at the Kasi Viswanathar temple, he has refused to make his way out of the temple on tours across TN with the EO of the temple to reach out to devotees to secure donor support. And that has not gone well with the EO Murugan. 

Kailasa Gurukal says that he has enjoyed a glorious three decades of temple service in Tenkasi having been personally roped in by the then popular Chidambareswarar Bhattar to perform service here "I am not seeking extension and will retire soon in a happy state having served with distinction earning a good name with the devotees as a committed priest."

For long, there has been demand for him to perform consecrations and homams elsewhere. After his retirement this year from the Kasi Viswanathar temple, he is confident that the God will show him the way towards anchoring consecrations in temples in TN. 

Challenging times for remote temples

But for the Kasi Viswanathar temple, there may be challenging times ahead unless the EO is able to convince Kailasa Gurukal to continue his archaka service. There are not Brahmin Priests forthcoming to take full time charge even though the huge devotee crowd is thronging this temple and unlike the past, there is good thattu kaasu on offer to the priests. Senthil Bhattar will have to shoulder a huge responsibility of managing the temple all alone with 'outsourced' priests to assist him, especially in a phase where the Thiruppani works are on and Kumbabhisekam is likely to take place next year.

The current trend is for those that have learned the agamas to explore opportunities in consecration events in temples as against taking up full time archaka service in remote temples that is likely to leave a severe shortage of Brahmin Priests in remote temples in the decades ahead. It is unlikely this trend will reverse as there is big money on offer for 2-3 days of Kumbabhisekam even in remote temples in TN and young agama grads are happy doing a few such events every month rather than 10 hours of daily service at the temple.  

Auto from Tenkasi station : Thirumalai @ 8903787976

Tenkasi Kasi Viswanathar Temple Restoration

EO Murugan is fighting all odds to get the Pandya Period temple to its historical glory

He is replacing all the Mosaic stones with traditional Karungal, removing additional stones that raised the floor level up by almost five feet, installing two new Kodi Marams

The huge temple has exquisite sculptures and historical inscriptions 

While there has been an aggressive campaign against the HR&CE over the last decade that has been unsettling for those administering the temples, there are certain Executive Officers at some of the large temples who are trying their best to initiate positive developments in their limited time at these temples. This section featured a story in May this year on EO Sivaraman undertaking positive steps at the Ramanathaswamy temple in Ramanathapuram (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2024/05/dhanushkodi-rama-temple-shiva-lingam.html) and another one about JC Mariappan during the Panguni Utsavam in March this year at Srirangam (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2024/03/srirangam-panguni-chariot-festival-2024.html). This one is about EO Murugan, who against all odds is undertaking a restoration exercise at the Pandya period Kasi Viswanathar temple in Tenkasi.

It has been 18 long years since the previous Kumbabhisekam at this temple. The previous EOs at this temple could neither get the necessary approvals nor the required support from the priests. When Murugan took over as the EO, he was determined to restore the temple to its historic past taking it back to the days of the Pandya rule by removing all the additional and new constructions that had taken place in the decades gone by.

Like at the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/11/venu-srinivasan-srirangam-temple.html), successive renovation works had led to the raising of the floor level inside the temple. Soon after having his late lunch on the occasion of (Manickavachakar) Guru Pooja on Aani Magam, Murugan pointed this writer to the burying of historical inscriptions inside the temple “We have removed a few feet of additional flooring that had come up in the previous renovations and found there were many inscriptions dating back several centuries. Not just inscriptions, beautiful stone sculptures lay hidden because of the raised flooring. Now both the inscriptions and the sculptures are fully visible in front of the entrance to the Swami Sannidhi”, he told this writer in front of the Swami Sannidhi.

Removing Mosaic Flooring- Music Pillars back to its original sound

As has been the case in many temples in Tamil Nadu, mosaic flooring has become part of renovation exercises and it has been no different at the Kasi Viswanathar temple. Swami Sannidhi, Ulaga Amman Sannidhi, Murugan Sannidhi and others had all been replaced with mosaic stones. A great believer in sticking to traditions, EO Murugan took a bold step in removing the entire mosaic flooring and is particularly delighted at the musical pillars producing sound in the way it was originally intended “The traditional Karungal stones has led to the musical pillars presenting sound like from the past. That has given me a great bit of satisfaction.”

The Murugan Sannidhi will see additional stones and structures being removed one feet to get it back to its traditional past. 

The roof above the Swami Sannidhi had seen poor renovation. EO Murugan is restoring that as well to its historic past removing the entire stones from the past renovations.

Anti EO Movement 

No one gave him the slightest chance to replace the two damaged Kodi Maram (Swami and Ambal) but he has managed to make good progress on that as well. When the ground was dug for the replacement, there were some historical coins found underneath. He bemoans the way wrong information has been spread around to try and pull him down “News went around that huge quantities of Gold were found below the old Kodi Maram. Every part of this restoration has been captured and recorded and is there for all to see.”

He has the fullest faith in Kasi Viswanathar and believes that the Lord will keep him away from such distractions and help him focus on his goal to get the temple back to its historical best in terms of the structures.

Refurbishing the Raja Gopuram

Once again, like in many other temples, shrubs have grown in the tall 180 feet Raja Gopuram on the Eastern side. There are other challenges he has had to face in the repair works of the Tower "Severe winds in this time of the year in this region has led to a temporary halt in the repair works and painting of the Raja Gopuram. While all other repair works are going at full speed, the work on the Raja Gopuram is likely to be a bit slow for the next few months till the wind speed reduces" says EO Murugan. 

No Proactive support from the priests in reaching out to donors

There are only two priests at this huge temple with multiple sannidhis. Both these priests (this section will feature a separate story on them soon) have refused to proactively engage with devotee donors to fund this restoration exercise. But EO Murugan is unfazed with the lack of support. In the limited time he is likely to be at this temple, he hopes to go the full distance in making this restoration exercise a success “I am trying to reach out to the network of devotees I had built during my earlier stints including at the Tiruchendur temple seeking their support. While it is challenging without priests’ proactive support, devotees have come forward in good numbers so far in taking this temple back to its traditional structures within the huge complex.”

This writer has expressed many times in the past to priests across TN temples as to why they should travel extensively seeking donor support leaving aside their daily pooja but EO Murugan asks if devotees will be ready to meet him without the presence of the priests when it involves high donations. 

Even as a large number of devotees are reciting the sacred verses of Manickavachakar on the occasion of Aani Moolam (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/11/thiruvathavur-thirumarainathaswamy.html), he takes this writer to one part of the outer prakara that has been dug up five feet and shows the depth of additional construction “The lower walls in the outer prakara contain so many inscriptions that are currently hidden. We would require close to Rs. 50Lakhs to remove the entire additional stones had been built in the previous decades and the century gone by to get this prakara to its original form and structure. Kasi Viswanathar has blessed me thus far in identifying devotees and I am confident that he will show me the way in restoring this prakara too to its historic past. I am keen that all the inscriptions inside the temple are visible to the devotees for them to know the greatness of this temple.”

On the Southern side, there is a beautiful long nandavanam with beautiful flowers that are presented every day to Swami and Ambal. 

Other works to be undertaken include a new underground drainage system and rain water harvesting system.

Temple Legend

When Pandya King Parakrama wanted to construct a temple and brought a lingam from Kasi, Lord Shiva appeared in his dream and asked him to follow the ants and build the temple where the ants finally rested. He felt blessed to build this temple dedicated to Kasi Viswanathar and Ulagammal at Tenkasi. A lot of the inscriptions that EO Murugan spoke about and pointed to date back to the 14th and 15th century AD.  

There are beautiful sculptures at the Eastern Entrance, many of these are similar to those found in Krishnapuram (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2007/07/non-divya-desam-temple-tale.html) and Srivaikuntam Divya Desam and the exquisite ones at the Kailasanathar temple in Brahmma Desam, near Ambasamudram(https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/12/brahmmadesam-kailasanathar-koil.html). These are a real delight to the devotee eyes. 

It is likely that the restoration exercise will be completed over the next 12 months and consecration could take place sometime in 2025. One is not sure if EO Murugan will be at this temple till then but when the Kumbabhisekam does take place, a lot of the credit is likely to go to his tireless efforts in getting this several centuries old temple to its historic glory in terms of structure. 

The temple is open from 6am to 12noon and 4pm to 8:30pm

Auto from Tenkasi station : Thirumalai @ 8903787976  

Kuchalava Pureeswarar Temple Koyambedu

Unflinching Devotion of Priest carries the historic Ramayana period temple into the next generation

Sarabeswarar Pooja during Sunday Raahu Kaalam is special at this temple

Invoking the blessings of Kurugaaleeswarar and Dharma Samvardhini Ambal is said to result in family reunion and child birth

Sasikumar Gurukal is well past 40 and is one from the 1970s who continues to perform archaka service at a historical temple whose legend dates back to the Ramayana. Right from his school in the 1980s he assisted his appa Sadasiva Gurukal who himself performed service for over four decades at the Kuchalava Pureeswarar  Kurugaaleeswarar Temple in Koyembadu. He sports a tuft, is always seen in a Veshti and the sacred ash is prominent on his forehead. As has become the trend now, the search for a bride has gone on for two decades but has remained elusive. Undaunted and not allowing the frustration to get to him, he has been committed to continue the service rendered by his forefathers. Not only has he shown the devotion to Kurugaaleeswarar and Dharma Samvardhini Ambal, he also performs extraordinary daily service to his aged 84 year old mother at home cooking in the morning and evening and taking care of all the household chores straddling between the pooja service at the temple and the activities at home.

He recalls his appa narrating the story of how Koyambedu was a remote village in the early decades of his (appa’s) life. “There were only a few bulbs inside the temple. There were no tall buildings or tar roads like we see today. Devotees were few and far between, mostly restricted to those residing around the temple. It was financially challenging times in those decades.”

Service at monthly salary of Rs. 22/-

Sadasiva Gurukal had served at the temple at a monthly salary of Rs. 22. After several decades of service, he retired at a salary of Rs. 600!!!

Revival of Brahmotsavam

For decades the Brahmotsavam had been stopped. The Dwajasthambam too had been damaged in the later half of the previous century. Aadi Pooram and Vaikasi Amavasya were the two big annual events in the temple in those decades. It was the only the devotional wave that began in the 1990s and continued into the first two decades of this century that revived the fortunes of the temple. The Kumbabhisekam of 2000 saw the restoration of the Dwajasthambam and the succeeding consecration in 2012 saw the construction of a seven tier Raja Gopuram from the three tier Gopuram that existed earlier. The Chitrai Brahmotsavam too was revived. 

Following his school education, Sasikumar Gurukal was initiated into Saiva Agamas first under the tutorship of KA Sabarathna Shivachariar of Chenna Malleeswarar temple, Parrys and then under Kapali Vaidhyanathan of Kapaleeswarar Temple. Later he also was initiated into Shiva Gnana Botham and Saiva Siddantham by V Somasekara Shivachariar of Shiva Agama Vidya Peetam.

Committed Archaka Service

Despite the challenges relating to finding a bride, Sasikumar Gurukal decided very early on against removing the tuft and getting into a corporate job. He was clear that he wanted to continue the temple service at least for another generation and has now stuck to archaka service for close to two decades, after having assisted his appa informally during the first two decades of his life. 

He was the one who anchored the revival of the Chitrai Brahmotsavam (Theerthavari on Pournami) with street processions of Kuchalavapureeswarar on different vahanas around the four big streets around the temple. 

He officially took over as the chief priest in 2004 and for the next 15years the Rahu Kaalam Pooja for Sarabeswarar every Sunday evening and the two Pradoshams in the month were the 6 days that helped in the financial survival of the priests. 

While the service was going in the right direction till 2019, the Pandemic of 2020 has been a big setback for Sasikumar Gurukal. For long periods the temple has been under lockdown. The street processions have been off for a major part of the last 18months. The Brahmotsavam both in 2020 and this year were conducted as a simple event inside the temple with no vahana street processions. The restriction on devotees’ entry into the temple on Friday and over the weekend has meant that the Sarabeswarar pooja on Sunday evening has been off taking away an important component of archaka’s income in the month.

However, Sasikumar Gurukal’s mind is far away from the financial implications of devotees staying away from the temple. While he is unsure of what is likely to happen after his lifetime, he is determined to continue to serve at the Kurugaleeswarar Temple for as long as he can in as sincere a way as possible.

His younger brother, Vijayakumar Gurukal, too has joined him in temple service and both take care of this large temple assisted by a couple of others.

                 Sage Valmiki, Lava-Kucha at Vaikunta Vaasal Perumal Temple

It was here that Lava and Kucha spent their early childhood along with Sita under the guidance of Sage Valmiki who taught them all the skills. In memory of this, one finds a stone carving of them along with Valmiki at the Vaikunta Vaasal Perumal temple adjacent to the Kurugaleeswarar temple.

When Kulothunga II reached this place, his chariot wheel got stuck and did not move further. When he got down, he found, much to his surprise, a Shiva Lingam beneath the earth.

Special Features of the Temple

Kuchalavapureeswarar is seen in a North Facing direction towards Ayodhya as is Dharma Samvardhini Ambal, in a Thirumana Kolam. Hence this is referred to as Veera Badra Kshetram. Durga is seen in a West Facing posture (she is usually North facing in all temples) while Dakshinamurthy is South facing. 

There is a separate sannidhi for Somaskandar in the Raja Mandapam with a separate Vimanam. Arunagirinathar referred to this place as Kosai Nagar in his praise in Thirupugazh. The temple follows Kaamika Agama model of pooja.

This is a special temple for family reunion and child birth.

The temple is over a thousand years old but today its survival is largely due to the commitment of Sasikumar Gurukal who has promised to dedicate his entire life to the service of the Lord and Ambal at this historic location. Financial returns are not high and there is no family life as well being one with a tuft but what is there is the devotional inclination to serve the Lord and to continue his forefather's hereditary service. There are not too many to appreciate the contribution of those like Sasikumar Gurukal but he is undettered. He shuns publicity and refuses to be photoshot for all he cares for in this life is dedicated daily service to Kuchalava Pureeswarar.

The temple is open from 6.30am to 12noon and from 4.30pm to 8.30pm..

Ananda Thandava Puram Pancha Vateeswarar

 A Trustee run temple is now under Takeover pressure from the HR&CE

Not too long ago this temple town on the Northern outskirts of Mayiladuthurai was home to a beautiful agraharam with over a 100 houses lined up in a long row west of the Pancha Vateeswarar temple leading to the Perumal temple. There are two Ambal Sannidhis - Brahmma Nayaki Ambal and Kalyana Sundari. Baradwaja rishi undertook penance and performed pooja here. Historically this was a place where Vadama Iyers lived in large numbers.

It is believed that Shiva performed ‘Ananda Thandavam’ here to answer the prayers of a sincere devotee.

All the festivals were organised through contributions from residents of this agraharam. For the Kumbabhisekams till 1996, which was anchored by the Shivachariar from Thiru Kolakka, committees were formed with devotees from the agraharam participating actively in the festivities. Alankarams were grand during utsavams. As with other remote temples, original inhabitants left this town too seeking greener pastures in larger cities.

Sincere Priests

Gowrishankar Shivachariar came here in 2011 after finishing his patshala initiation in the agamas. His grandfather had been a trustee here at this temple. He had kept the entire village together. Gowrishankar Shivachariar is continuing the legacy of his forefathers who had served the temple for centuries. Currently there are several challenges including the takeover bid but he does not want to leave and is keen to keep the service going.The temple is in need of a restoration exercise.

Till the middle of the last decade, vahana processions were still part of the utsavams. However, in recent years, most of the vahanas have been damaged with only Mooshika Vahana now left in a good condition. The Dwajasthambam too has been damaged.Madapalli too is non functional now. 

Takeover bid by HR & CE

This has for long been a trustee managed temple but the HR & CE has in the recent past been pressurizing a takeover of the temple. The agraharam devotees continue to pay the EB bill. The temple has been run for long with the support of the devotees. Old Kavachams still exist. There are 25 utsava idols inside the temple. As with many other temples in TN, the HR & CE has been pushing the Trustees to move the idols away into their security.

There were a lot of lands for the temple including Ilupadi Thope. The sacred temple tank is used to grow fish which is then sold in the market, a process that is also followed at Karunaswamy temple, Karunthittakudi, Thanjavur(Karunaswamy Temple, Karunthittakudi).

Rishabha Vahanam on Thai Swathi

Those from the Srivathsa Gothram specifically visit the temple and perform abhisekam. On the occasion of Pradhosham, 60 ladies present songs in praise of the Lord. They also present abhisekam milk for Pradhosham. On Margazhi Swathi, Guru Pooja is performed for Maina Kanja Nayanar who hailed from here. The Mukthi utsavam of Manakanja Nayanar is celebrated on Thai Swathi with a Guru Pooja, Rishabha Vahana procession inside the temple and a Purana recital. Street procession also takes place on Vaikasi Visakam.

Ayyanar temple, a km away from here, is very popular in Ananda Thandava Puram.

The temple is open from 630am- 11am and 5pm-8pm. Contact Gowrishankar Gurukal@ 9442058137

Thiru Pudaimaruthur Naarumbu Nathar

Lord Naarumbu Nathar is seen in a tilted posture listening to the devotional rendition of a devotee

One finds a cut on his head in memory of the historical episode relating to Pandya King slashing the sickle on a hidden deer

Kannan Gurukal remains the only traditionalist in this temple town that not so long ago had 350 of them residing in the agraharam

It is 515 am on a Tuesday morning in Karthigai with a slight drizzle around the corner.  It is still quiet at the Tamaraibarani. The villagers are just beginning to turn up for their morning bath at the various ‘padi thurai’ along the banks. S Kannan Bhattar (Gurukal), who has been performing aradhana and also managing the madapalli at the ancient Narumbu Nathar temple in Thiru Pudai Maruthur since 1995 at just Rs. 175 per month is already up and getting ready for the morning pooja. His father had performed service for 4 decades while his grandfather was there for 45 years. They rarely complained about the low income and simply performed their duty at this big temple of serving the Lord.

Till about four decades ago, the agraharam was home to 350 traditionalists with Vedic Chanting being an integral part of the temple. Today, the Gurukal remains the only Brahmin family in the village.

The Eastern entrance remains a Mottai Gopuram. 

Unique Idol
The image of Lord Narumbu Nathar is unique in that he is seen slightly tilted trying to hear the voice of his devotee with scars on his head, an indication of the legendary episode relating to the temple.

Tale of Lord’s tilted posture

Karur Siddhar, one of the 18 renowned Siddhars, reached this location after meeting Sage Agastya at Papanasam, at the foot of Pothigai Hills. When he reached the river bank, he was welcomed by flash floods in the Tamaraibarani. Seeing a temple of Lord Shiva and not knowing his name at this temple, he wondered how he could have darshan but was moved the fragrance of ‘Maruthai’ flowers. Seeking darshan, he called out for him 'Poovin Manathil Naduvil Nirkum Naathaney' ‘Narumbu Naatha Nalam Tharuvaayo.’ Moved by his devotion, the Lord moved a bit and is said to have looked out for the devotee who was reaching out to him. An invisible voice directed him to cross the river and come over. Much to his delight, the river gave way and allowed him to cross.

When he came here and asked as to why his face was tilted, the Lord said that he was moved by his devotion and wanted to see who this devotee was. The Siddhar prayed that the Lord remain so ever after to provide darshan to all devotees in the same tilted posture.

Cut on the Lord’s head

When Veera Marthanda Pandya reached here on a hunting expedition, he found a scared deer hiding at the foot of the tree. He directed the cutting of the tree with a sickle. To his shock, he found a Shiva Lingam coming out of the Marutha Tree with a cut in the head and a deer form on his chest. Apologising for his action, he built the temple that one finds in its current form and structure today. To this day, the Lord is seen with a cut in the head and with a deer mark on his chest. 

The Saivite Triangle

'Thalai Maruthur' Mallikaarjuna at Srisailam, Idai Maruthur Mahalingeswarar at Thiru Idai Maruthur  (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/12/thiruvidaimaruthur-mahalingam-temple.html)signifying the mid part and here Pudai Maruthur Narambunathar, signifying the ‘patham’ sthalam are three temples seen in an equidistant triangle.

Indra was inflicted with Brahmma Hathi Dosham for having ignored his original Guru and then later having killed his 'adopted' asura Guru. Indra and his wife had bath in the Surendra Theertham and undertook penance to be liberated from the dosham. He had darshan of Lord and Ambal in Kalyana Kolam.

This is a Triveni Sangamam with Tamarai Barani, Manimutharu and Kadana rivers meeting near here. There is an old world feeling about this historic location. One finds green paddy fields all along the road from Mukoodal which is 4kms away. The greenery continues off the Thirupudaimaruthur- Attalanallur road as well with banana plantations in large numbers. 

It was here that Maha Periyava received Deekshai.

The temple is abound with inscriptions.

Festivals

10 day Brahmotsavam in Thai with Theerthavari on Poosam

When here, also visit Gajendra Varadar Perumal temple in Attalanallur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/03/athalanallur-gajendra-varadaraja-perumal.html)

How to reach
An auto from Mukoodal (4kms) will cost Rs. 70. One can also reach the temple from Veeravanallur (auto Rs. 100). Contact numbers: 96295 42614 / 94427 14547

The temple is open from 6am to 11am and from 430pm to 8pm. Contact: S Kannan Gurukal @ 96262 90350.

Brahmmadesam Kailasanathar Koil

Pancha Lingam Kshetram

The largest temple in the region has the most exquisite stone sculptures

The Gurukal has single handedly revived the historical Theppotsavam though the Brahmotsavam has not taken place for four decades

A single archaka has been managing the huge temple all alone at just a three digit salary 

Referred to as Raja Raja Chaturvedi Mangalam, Brahmma Desam was historically renowned for Vedic Scholars reciting the four Vedas through the day. There was such vibrancy in the region brought about by this nonstop chanting that Raja Raja Chozha donated the entire temple town to the Vedic Scholars so they could focus on the recital. Till very recently, Vedic Education and Recital was an integral part of Brahmma Desam. Rig Veda was initiated to students and only the dwindling interest and moving away of the traditionalists away from such remote locations prompted the conversion of the Vedic school to an academic school on the South Street a couple of decades back.

The temple town referred to as Ayaneeswaram signifying the presence of Brahmma and Shiva at the temple is home to Kailasanathar and Brihantha Nayaki. Reference to Ayaneeswaram is made in the 8 song of the 6^th Thirumurai Adaivu Thiruthandagam.

Located 4kms  East of Mannar Koil (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/11/kulasekara-perumal-koil-in-mannar-koil.html) off the Mukoodal Highway, the huge 2000 year old temple is surrounded by lush green paddy fields, banana plantations and coconut groves. The Gadana River runs right near the temple from South to North. The towering 7 Tier Raja Gopuram at the Eastern Entrance casts its shadow on the big temple tank, just North of the tower.  

Legend has it that Brahmma came here, created the Theertham, had bath and undertook penance repenting for his sin of having insulted Lord Shiva in Dakshana’s Yagna.  Brahmma’s grandson Romasa Rishi too performed pooja at this place.

Pancha Lingam Kshetram

The temple is unique in that there are five Separate Sannidhis for Lord (and Ambal) with a separate Vimanam and Nandi. These include Kasi Viswanathar and Visalakshi, Annamalaiyar and Unnamulai Ammai, Madurai Meenakshi and Sundareswarar, Ilaintha Adi Nathar and the Moolavar of this temple Kailasanathar, flanked by Brihandha Nayaki in a separate sannidhi. Hence this is referred to as Pancha Lingam Kshetram.

Ilanthai Adi Nathar (Badarivaneswarar), a Swayambu idol, is the original deity at this temple. One finds an Ilanthai tree as the Sthala Vriksham.

This is the birth place of the second Acharya of Kanchi Mutt Sarvagna Atmendra Saraswathi Swami.

Architectural Glory

The Cheras and Chozhas created one of the most incredible pieces of sculptures at this temple. Credit goes to the Pandyas for the construction of all the Mandapams, while the towering Raja Gopurams and the huge outer walls were built by the Nayaks.

Exquisite unseen Sculptures

The temples along the entire Tamaraibarani stretch have exquisite stone sculptures as exemplified by the ones in Srivaikuntam and Krishnapuram, among others. At the Kailasanathar temple in Brahmmadesam, the Cheras created  sculptures that will remain etched in one’s memory for ever.

The Bikshaada Nathar Sabha is a distinctive Sannidhi where one finds one of a kind of images not found in any other temple in Tamil Nadu. The seven feet tall Lord Shiva presents himself as Bikshaada Nathar without a peedam standing tall like a human being. He is seen with a Bhootham Vadhyam in a typical posture of going out for Bikshai.

Around him are carvings of Brahmma, Vishnu, Muruga, Pillayar, Ashta Dhik Baalakars, Surya, Chandra, Kinnarar, Kim Purushar, Agastyar, all seen in their respective Vahanas offering worship to Bikshaada Nathar. Seen above the Lord are two Apsara Kannis sculpted on a single stone, yet another marvelous piece. Below the Lord are three Apsaras in three different postures including one in a Sayana Kolam.

‘Punugu’ Nataraja

Yet another special feature at this temple is the presence of Lord Nataraja with Sivagami, Karaikal Ammayar and Pathanjali Vyaakra Paatha Muni. In centuries gone by, the Lord was provided a grand Punugu bath once a year on the eve of Margazhi Thiruvathirai and was referred to as ‘Punugu Sabaapathi’. But in recent decades, given the financial state of the temple, the Lord is given a sandal pasting on that day and remains so through till the next Margazhi. 

In the outer prakaram, one finds a separate sannidhi for Brahmma and Indra. Being a ‘Brahmma’ Desam, there is also a separate Sannidhi for Saraswathi with a Vimanam.

Right next to this on the pathway is a Lotus Petal in stone. It is the only from this location can one see all the three Raja Gopurams and the seven Vimanams.

The stone roof near the Eastern Raja Gopuram is yet another feature at this temple. While this is similar to structures seen in temples in Kerala, this one is fully in stone.

Dakshina Murthy is seen with a folded right leg and the left leg placed down, in contrast to the usual posture of the right leg being down.

Koorma Aasana – Soma Vaara Mandapam

Out of the five Aasanaas of the Lord, the one at this temple is in the form of Koorma Aasana. This exclusive piece of architecture is seen at the Soma Vaara Mandapam near the Ambal Sannidhi with the mandapa built atop Koorma. It is here that historically music and dance festivals used to be organized. Lined up on the row of pillars in this stretch are historical characters including those of Duryodhana, Yudhistira and Bheema, in addition to those from the Ramayana. 

Huge Nandikeswarar on Stone

The Nandi near the Kodi Maram, the biggest in the region and sculpted on a single stone, is another example of the outstanding architecture seen inside the temple. He is seen with a bell, jewels and anklets. The posture is similar to that a cow in a sitting posture.

War Time Invocation by the Kings

During war time, the kings used to visit the temple to invoke the blessings of Naalayirathamman (Sahasrambikai), a Kaali Roopam and they would return to the temple in a thanking gesture at the end of the war. In memory of this historical event, a grand ‘Thiru Kudai’ Thiruvizha in Thai was part of the temple’s annual festival calendar, this one strung together by different communities in the temple town. This too has come to a halt in recent decades. The moolavar idol of Naalayirathamman is on the banks of the Gadaga river in a separate temple dedicated to her.

Brahmotsavam- A thing of the Past?

Historically, the 10^th day of the Brahmotsavam on Panguni Uthiram saw a procession of Lord Kailasanathar on a Rishaba Vahana with Brihandha Nayaki around the streets of Brahmma Desam, the largest temple in the Ambasamudram region after celebration of the Theerthavari Utsavam in the morning. For centuries, this was the grandest of the festivals at this temple. But for almost half a century, the Brahmotsavam has become a ‘festival of the past’. And this in a temple that is the largest in the region with three towering Gopurams and seven Vimanams, has the most exquisite stone sculptures and was once a War Temple offering protection to the people.

Revival of Panguni Hastham Theppotsavam

The Theppotsavam was celebrated on Hastham, the day after Panguni Uthiram and on the 11^th day of the Brahmotsavam. Thanks to the efforts of Raj Kumar Bhattar, who took over from his father a decade ago, the theppotsavam has now been revived in all its ancient glory. With the help of donors, the entire tank was refurbished over a two month period a few years back. 

For the last three years, the theppotsavam has been conducted following the full agama (the temple follows Kaamiga Agamas – one of the 28 agamas) ritual including performing the homam on the Hastham day. Melam, Vedic Chants, recital of Thirumurai, Bharatanatyam and procession around the Ratha Veethi are now part of the Theppotsavam celebrations.

There was a Chariot Festival too around the Ratha Veethi but with the Brahmotsavam having come to a halt, the Chariot has remained in a dilapidated condition at the far Eastern end of the Sannidhi Street.

To this day, one finds the ancient Vasantha Mandapam, where Vasanthotsavam was once celebrated in a grand manner.

The Gurukal has revived celebrations of occasions such as Pradhosham, Thei Pirai Ashtami Pooja, Chitrai Visu, four time pooja on Sivarathri and Margazhi Thiruvathirai. He has begun a Vilakku Pooja in the evening on the first day of the Tamil month.

Huge Granite Stones for Lord’s Pandal

An interesting facet of the Utsavams was that there were big granite stones to the North of the Eastern Raja Gopuram on which big Pandal was placed during big festive occasions for the Lord would take shelter beneath this at the start of processions.

100 Pillar Mandapam  

The 100 pillared mandapam at the Eastern entrance is probably the best depiction of the architectural greatness of the times gone by with each pillar showcasing the skills of the artisans. In one of the pillars is depicted the fight between Vaali and Sugreeva. A couple of rows way is one of Rama standing in a posture of striking the arrow in the direction of Vaali. What is amazing is that one is able to see the fighters from Rama’s pillar but one is not able to sight Rama from the ‘fighting’ pillar, truly symbolic of the hidden state of Rama in that episode. No pillar has been moved or is out of place to create this hidden state of Rama.

A War Temple – Blocking an Elephant

In those early centuries, this was a war temple. People from the entire region used to take shelter within the temple when the war broke out and the huge temple door at the Eastern Raja Gopuram was shut. The opposition used the elephant force to try to break open the door but failed as the entire door was filled with sharp edged nails that caused the elephant to bleed each time it tried to push the door. 

The outer walls too were built in such a way that local forces could watch the movements of the opposition warriors. The towering Raja Gopuram was also used as a ‘weapon’ to identify the whereabouts of the opposition troupe.

Where the Paddy was ground

Just outside the temple at the Eastern Entrance is the Nellu Kuthu Thirai, an area where paddy was ground and later presented to the Lord. This was also the zone where paddy was stored to serve the entire village during floods, famines and during war time. Unfortunately over the last half a century since the arrival of the HR & CE in its full steam, the paddy inflow into the temple from the lands belonging to the temple has completely stopped both for the Lord and the temple personnel.

Meagre income for the Gurukal

This story is being written on a day when the petition for reasonable salary for priests is coming up in the Madurai High Court, a case filed by the Head Archakar of Rajagopalaswaamy Kulasekara Azhvaar temple in Mannar Koil, just a few kms from Brahmmadesam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/04/mannar-koil-bhattar-priest-salary-case.html). 

The Brahmmadesam temple is no different in this regard. 

Raj Kumar Gurukal joined the temple a decade ago at a monthly salary of Rs. 215 which has since been doubled to Rs. 500. His father N Kulathu Bhattar performed pooja at the temple for over four decades, first at a salary of Rs. 65 per month and then later at Rs. 165.  It has generally been a huge struggle to sustain themselves with the HR and CE citing the lack of income at the temple as a reason for the ridiculously meager salary to the archaka who is now managing the huge temple all alone without any support. 

While there were a dozen people at the temple till the 1980s, he has only the ‘Pala Velai’ person, who himself is paid only Rs. 300 per month, as the only companion at the temple over the last decade.

Unflinching Devotion to the Lord
During his over four decades service at the temple, his father used to bring water from the well each day for abhisekam at each of the Sannidhis. In the early part of the 20^th Century, his grandfather Natesa Bhattar would walk all the way to the river to bring water for Abhishekam, such was his devotional commitment.

Revival of the Brahmmotsavam is a distant dream given the current working of the HR & CE though Raj Kumar Bhattar is hopeful he will be able to achieve this in his life time. As a precursor, he has brought back into great shape most of the historical Vahanas that were once used for the Brahmotsavam purapadu.

                 Koorma Aasana - Soma Vaara Mandapam

Repair Works at the temple
It is almost 15years since the previous Kumbabhisekam. There are cracks on the Eastern Raja Gopuram. The ASI has inspected and cleared the repair works to be undertaken to fix the cracks. Several of the beautiful sculptures on the Raja Gopuram need immediate repair works. But as has been with so many ancient temples, the temple is awaiting approval from the HR & CE headquarters. As is happening in several other temples, the inordinate delay in the approval process is creating frustration among donors.

It is easily the biggest temple in the region with three Raja Gopurams and Seven Vimanams. The entire temple is managed by a single archakar who works at a miniscule Rs. 500 a month salary. It is hoped that sometime in the near future, HR & CE will take steps to staff such ancient temples adequately and compensate the archakas and other temple personnel appropriately so they can carry out their duties without the financial worry.

Temple Time

The Temple is open between 730am and 10am in the morning and between 530pm and 730pm in the evening. Contact: Raj Kumar Bhattar @ 94428 94094.

How to reach

Auto from Ambai Bus Stand to the temple will cost Rs. 70. Local town buses every half hour from Ambai Bus Stand.