Kumbeswarar Shivasankaran Gurukal Next Gen Kameswaran Gurukal

Next Gen Kameswaran Gurukal is carving out a name for himself as a highly committed archaka much like his appa had over the previous three decades

                   63 year old Shivasankara Gurukal

It had been a financially challenging life for Shivasankara Gurukal in his childhood as he grew up in the 1960s and 70s, a phase when the anti-temple movement was at its peak. Despite this, his appa, Nataraja Gurukal, called for time on his academics when he was 11 and sent him for Saiva Agama initiation to the then renowned Allur Patshala, near Trichy. He later acquired a Masters Degree at the Madras Sanskrit College. 

Hereditary services turns into HRCE appointment

Into the 1990s, following his wedding, Shivasankara Gurukal joined the temple as an archaka. He recalls as to how the HRCE gradually converted the archaka service on to their rolls though their forefathers had been performing this as a hereditary service “During my Thatha’s service phase, he performed ‘Nithya Snapanam’ pooja for which he was paid Rs. 8 every day. This was then converted to a weekly payment and subsequently to a monthly one. And over a period of time, the HRCE made this into a salary kind of structure taking his signature for the monthly payments. And then over the decades, this became formalised as a salary for the archakas.”

Thus, they were performing hereditary archaka service that has been passed on for generations, they have over the last many decades come under the HRCE fold in terms of appointment of service.

In the 1990s when he began archaka kainkaryam, there was hardly any devotees at the temple. “We would sit together as an archaka ground and chit chat waiting for the next devotees to arrive. But very rarely did they turn up. Only on the weekends did we see some sort of devotee crowd and that brought cheer to all of us” recounts Shivasankara Gurukal on his initial phase at the temple went three decades ago.

Kainkaryam through darkest phase

Shivasankara Gurukal’s thatha and appa had each served at the Kumbeswarar temple for over three decades in the most challenging of times. Tears almost roll down the Gurukal’s cheeks when he recalls the moments from his childhood in the 1960s and 70s “There was very little income from the temple. Devotees were few and Thattu Kaasu was minimal. For a weekly Kainkaryam at the Swami Sannidhi, the Thattu Kaasu would not top 250 at its peak. He would buy daily essentials from the shops on loan. The shop owners had so much regard for the Gurukal Kainkaryam that they would not even ask back for the amount that was due from us. After a month or two, the shop’s worker would politely remind my appa of the pending amount. Almost all through his service, he cycled to the temple.”

But this family has passed on the service to the next generation with the same thought and message that of the committed kainkaryam to Swami and Ambal was foremost and that this family can have no bigger blessing that performing every day service at this legendary temple. 

Next Gen Son takes over

There was a message that Shivasankara Gurukal repeatedly played within himself all through his three decades archaka kainkaryam at the Kumbeswarar temple. This was a message that had been passed on to him from his forefathers. On the morning of Maasi Magam, 31 year old Kameswaran Gurukal has been on decorating Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika ahead of the procession to the Maha Magam Kulam. Later in the morning, he accompanies Ambal on this procession on a hot Monday. He had taken over the reigns from his appa, Shivasankara Gurukal in 2023. On that morning, Shivasankara Gurukal once again reminded his son, like he had many times earlier in the past about the message that had passed on to him prior to his taking over the archaka kainkaryam in the 1990s.

He recounts to this writer sitting at his rented home on Reddi Rao street in Valayapettai Agraharam about this message has helped him all his life “When I was a young boy, my thatha and appa had always seeded the thought in me that there was no bigger a blessing than performing Kainkaryam at this historic temple and that we must dedicate our entire life in service to the Divine Couple.”

Festive occasions

Saptha Sthanam Pallakku procession in Chitrai is a special occasion when Kumbeswarar goes around for 3 days to 7 temples in and around Kumbakonam. Five day Thiru Kalyanam in Vaikasi is a one of its kind temple utsavam not seen in too many other temples in TN for Thiru Kalyanam is largely a one day event in even the biggest of temples. Mangalambika’s Theppam on the occasion of Panguni Uthiram draws good crowd these days. In Margazhi, Nataraja from 12 temples in Kumbakonam arrive at this temple and Kumbeswarar provides Ethir Sevai. 

On the evening of Maasi Magam, on the return procession from Maha Magam Kulam, where he had been on the Rishabham earlier in the day, Kumbeswarar provides Ethir Sevai to Sarangapani Perumal on the Theppam with the archakas of both the temples presenting Deeparathanai to the respective Lords.

Highly Committed Gurukal

Devotees have rarely seen Kameswaran Gurukal talk on the phone when inside the temple. Last Monday morning, after giving the final touches to the alankaram, he went around Swami and Ambal repeatedly paying attention to minute details and ensuring that everything was fine with the alankaram. Once satisfied, he placed the sandalwood paste on the forehead of Swami and signed off for the procession. All through the 90minute procession to the Maha Magam Kulam, he was quietly presenting the sacred ash to the devotees. In front of the hospital on the North street of the Abi Mukteeswarar temple, he presented Mariyathai to the owner of the hospital.  

Kameswaran Gurukal

In the last year or so, Shivasankara Gurukal has repeated heard from devotees at the Kumbeswarar temple that his son is performing service with the same devotion and dedication that they had seen in him over the previous three decades. In an age when youngsters are placing a high price for their service in all walks of life, Shivasankara Gurukal is seeing his son focusing solely on swami kainkaryam setting aside thoughts on financial returns and that has given him the greatest satisfaction. While a life at TN temples has seemed uncertain in the recent past, 63 year old Shivasankara Gurukal is confident that his son will perform this kainkaryam in the same way that he and his forefathers had and take this service into the next phase at this historic temple.

Though the previous generation of priests had endured grave financial distress, they continued the archaka service for they considered it a great blessing. A lot in the new generation has moved on to the corporate world away from temple service. Those like Kameswaran Gurukal have been brought up in way that they see no life outside of kainkaryam to the divine couple of Kumbakonam at the Aathi kumbeswarar temple. And that's something that devotees to this temple have to be grateful for as the temple is in safe archaka hands at least for the foreseeable future. 

Srirangam Madapalli Pachur Rangarajan

Hailing from a remote village near Pachur, Rangarajan has gone on to perform service at the madapalli at the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam for over three decades

This section has featured stories on those from various walks of life taking to Kainkaryam at the Ranganathswamy temple in Srirangam. Chakrapani was a worker at a factory who secured the Kainkaryam of a Sripatham. Kannan quit an IT job in Chennai to join the Sripatham. Harish Bhattar quit a high paying bank job in his 20s to continue the hereditary Bhattar Kainkaryam. This story is about one who worked as a server at a restaurant in Thiru Vellarai in his teens and was blessed to be the one who would go on to prepare the sacred Thaligai for Ranganathaswamy and Ranganayaki Thayar for over three decades. 

When he was a school boy in the 1970s, Rangarajan did not visualise a life of Kainkaryam at a temple and that at the number one Divya Desam. His appa, Venkatraman Iyengar, who hailed from Virandur, a small village near Pachur, had performed service at many village temples such as Gopurapatti and Azhagiya Manavalam. It was a financially challenging life during his childhood for there was not much of an income for those in temple service, even more so for those performing in remote village temples.

தேட்டருந்திறல் தேனினைத், தென்னரங்கனை

திருமாதுவாழ் வாட்டமில் வனமாலை மார்வனை

வாழ்த்தி 

மால்கொள் சிந்தையராய்

ஆட்ட மேவியலந்தழைத்து 

அயர் வெய்தும் மெய்யடியார்கள் தம்

ஈட்டம் கண்டிடக் கூடுமேல் 

அது காணும் பயனாவதே

From Vellarai Restaurant to Srirangam Madapalli

Given this background, like many others his generation Rangarajan, too, saw for himself a life away from temples. He was not academically inclined and quit school early. A stint at the renowned Singam Patshala in Srirangam too was short lived. To earn a livelihood, he took on a job as a server in a restaurant in Thiru Vellarai at a monthly salary of Rs. 100 sleeping in the same restaurant every day.

இந்திரனோடு பிரமன்

 ஈசன் இமையவர் எல்லாம்

மந்திர மா மலர் கொண்டு

மறைந்து உவராய் வந்து நின்றார்

சந்திரன் மாளிகை சேரும்

சதுரர்கள் வெள்ளறை நின்றார்

காந்தியம் பொது இது ஆகும்

அழகனே காப்பிட  வாராய்

 For additional income, he would also serve at weddings and it was on one such occasion that a meeting led to a transformational change in his life that he recounts to this writer on a hot Friday morning in front of the Perumal Madapalli at the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam “Doraiswamy Iyengar, Sthaneegam and Sindhumani Iyengar, my uncle, met me at a wedding. I had just married three months earlier and the career path was uncertain. They were keen for me to move into the madapalli at the Srirangam temple where there was a shortage of personnel. I had never visualised a full time service inside the temple and this offer came out of the blue when I least expected it.”

Hard initiation at the madapalli

Thus in 1994, Pachur Rangarajan joined the madapalli at the Srirangam temple and has been here for over three decades. He remembers his initiation into the madapalli “In the first few years, the seniors back then initiated me into this service with real hard training. I had to clean the paanai and the other vessels every day, I had to clean the floor with cow-dung, had to bring over a 100 kudams of water from the well  and also wash and dry the vastrams.”

In those decades, that was the way youngsters were trained into temple kainkaryam. He says that they got him into this service in a phased step by step manner “I started off boiling rice. Once I did that well, they initiated me into preparing Thirukannamathu and Pongal. Only after being convinced that I was committed into this service, did the seniors allow me into preparing the full range of sacred food.”

Challenges at the Madapalli

In the middle of the previous decade, there were a couple of IT trained personnel who joined the Srirangam madapalli but their stint was short lived. "It is not easy to secure the blessings of Ranganathaswamy and it is even more difficult to keep it for a long time. One has to remain patient here and work hard for years to get into the good books of Perumal. Those who sought a quick path to glory were shown the door just as quickly" says Pachur Rangarajan on some of the challenges he had to encounter in his service, especially when newer, more aggressive personnel worked alongside him at the madapalli (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/07/srirangam-madapalli-transformation.html).

Serious Health Issues but he is back again

A life at the madapalli at the Ranganathaswamy temple is a physically challenging one with the personnel having to carry several kgs of Thaligai from the madapalli to the Sannidhi and to mandagapadis during the round the year utsavams. Working on firewood and without enough free flowing air takes a toll on the body as Rangarajan found out late last year when he encountered serious health issues. But his devotional commitment to Ranganayaki Thayar has brought him into the temple after a short ‘health’ break and is raring to go like he was in the 1990s, looking forward to the Panguni Utsavam that is coming up later this month. 

His Top 3 favourite Sacred Thaligai

Pachur V. Rangarajan counts Milagu Puliyodarai, Thayar Aravanai and Puttu as his three favourite sacred Thaligai that he particularly likes preparing and presenting. He is now the senior most cook at the Ranganathaswamy temple and the one who initiates and trains new comers into the madapalli. He has served at the Perumal madapalli for over 15 years, at the Thayar Madapalli for close to a decade and also at Thiru Vellarai and Uraiyur in the past. 

Madapalli Kainkaryam as his only way of life

He says he never visualised a life at the Srirangam temple. He considers it a great blessing to be following in the footsteps of grandfather and uncle into this life of preparing and presenting the sacred food to Perumal and Thayar at this legendary Divya Desam for over three decades. He would be retiring soon but if the temple authorities require his services, he says he would be happy to continue the kainkaryam till the very last moment of his life, for he has experienced the greatest satisfaction and happiness in his life when preparing the sacred food for the Divine Couple. 

Aadhi Kumbeswarar Maasi Magam Theerthavari Rishabham

After a grand alankaram of Kumbeswarer and Mangalambika atop the Rishabham on Monday morning, it is a chaotic accident-prone procession from the temple to the Maha Magam Kulam

It is just past 7.30am on Monday (March 2) morning and there is a huge crowd at the Aadhi Kumbeswarar temple, in Kumbakonam. It is Maasi Magam and devotees are thronging the temple to have an early morning darshan. The annadhanam side is full with food being handed out continuously through the morning.

While there is a long queue at the Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika Sannidhis, a few of the priests are giving the final touches to the Pancha Moorthy idols ahead of the long procession to the Maha Magam Kulam. It is a grand alankaram of Swami and Ambal atop the Rishabham and after taking a close look and being satisfied with the alankaram, the priest pastes the Sandal on Swami’s forehead. 

It is the Theerthavari day of the annual Maasi Brahmotsavam and the dip in the Maha Magam Kulam has to take place within 30 minutes from noon for the sacred lagnam ends at 12.30pm.

It is well past 10.30am when Aadhi Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika, both on Velli Rishabham make their way out of the temple after the Deepaarathanai and the elephant fanning the Lord. There are devotees who have been at this Maasi Magam procession for several decades and they have seen it all. They debate amongst themselves if the Pancha Moorthy will take a short cut like has happened a few years in the past when the start of the procession has been delayed or if indeed, they will first go on a pradakshinam around the four sacred streets of the temple before taking the trip to the Maha Magam tank.

Wrong Schedule on the banner

At the Eastern entrance, it takes 15 minutes for the Sripatham personnel to tie up the beautiful colourful canopy over Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika even as devotees have darshan of the Rishabham and pick up the sacred white ash from the priests. The huge banner next to the Chariot has got the specifics of this Theerthavari day wrong. The programme schedule states that Kumbeswarar would provide Rishabham darshan on this return procession from Maha Magam Kulam while the reality is that the Rishabham procession is from the temple to the Kulam prior to the Theerthavari event.

HRCE Fails - A Chaotic Procession full of accidents

On to the Kumbeswarar South Street, the traffic is heavy. There are no additional police personnel to stop or redirect the vehicles and the Sripatham have a tough time manoeuvring Swami and Ambal around the vehicles. The HR & CE personnel, who these days are an integral part of temple street processions, are not there in any good numbers. As the procession moves into the West street, the first of the many incidents take place showcasing the unfortunate scenario in small town temples.

Canopy breaks with the overhead wire contact

Lack of attention leads to an overhead wire breaking the wood piece of the canopy as it comes tumbling down behind Mangalambika. Time is short and Ambal cannot wait for too long for the other deities have moved forward.  It is the North street when the Sripatham retie the canopy atop Ambal, though it is not to fullest satisfaction of the three priests who are accompanying Mangalambika on the procession. 

As Ambal moved on to the middle of the North Street, a corporation vehicle almost bangs against the bamboo piece of Ambal, the second accident in a matter of minuter. It takes another few minutes for the vehicle to dismantle itself. No one seems to be in control to take charge of the procession. 

Flowers thrown on the deities

The North Street is where the flower vendors conduct their early morning business. Showing their devotion they throw good quantities of flowers on the Swami and Ambal that falls on the head of the priests sitting there. Presenting a flower garland to Swami and Ambal is a nice gesture but devotees throwing flowers from the street on to the deities does not seem right. The priests bear patiently the unknotted ‘Uthiri’ flowers falling on their body and they knock it off their head.

Passes Sarangapani on the float

It is a very hot morning in Kumbakonam and the time is well past 11am. The Sripatham have to now gather pace to reach the Maha Magam Kulam by noon. The corporation vehicle finally arrives to pour water on to the road to cool the feet of the Sripatham personnel. At the Potramarai Kulam, Sarangapani Perumal is moving through the South side of the tank even as Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika pass by on the Rishabham. It is a quick ‘glance’ meeting of Perumal and Shiva. 

A two wheeler crashes next to Mangalambika

As has been the case this morning, with one accident after another unfolding, a speeding two wheeler with three people travelling on it skids in the water near the Police Station right next to Mangalambika. There are loud wailing noises from the injured but the procession has to move on. Traffic is chaotic and the police aren’t helping out restricting the vehicles during this procession to the Maha Magam Kulam. The Sripatham continue to do a good job. There are Thattu presentations as well on the way from the shop owners on the busy Nageswaran North Street.

It is almost close to noon, when Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika reach near the kulam. They are asked to perform a pradakshinam around the Abi Mukeswarar temple and the Maha Magam tank. The owners of the hospitals on the North Street come out to present Thattu and Ambal’s priest  presents a shawl and a flower garland to one of them. 

Heading to the east street, the overhead wires present more trouble for Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika further delaying the procession. It is past noon when the Theerthavari idol makes its way through the heavily guarded gates. There is a huge crowd inside the Maha Magam tank on all the four sides that have taken prime positions from early morning awaiting this big Theerthavari moment. But with Lords from 12 temples making their way into the tank, devotees who are coming in after noon are now restricted from the entering the temple tank. 

The nadaswaram artistes themselves find it difficult to enter but manages to make his way inside the tank for the devotional presentation during the Theerthavari. The priest from the Kumbeswarar temple begins recital of the Mantras leading to the Theerthavari. It is almost close to 12.30pm when the Kumbeswarar Theerthavari idol dips into the sacred tank with all the devotees around too taking a dip. The priest continuously shouts out ‘Om Nama Shiviya’ with devotees following him in this chant in chorus. For once, there are more folded hands than phone cameras with the devotion reaching a peak when Kumbeswarar dipped into the Maha Magam tank that was brimming with water.

There is happiness on the faces of the devotees who have had a close darshan of the Theerthavari of Aadhi Kumbeswarar. And they leave the Maha Magam tank for another year discussing their experience fresh from the sacred bath they have just had.

Thiru Kudanthai Chakrapani Chariot Sarangapani Theppam Kumbeswarar Rishabham

On this Maasi Magam morning, Chakrapani provided darshan atop the Chariot, Sarangapani on the float and Athi Kumbeswarar on a majestic Rishabham

                                          Chakrapani Chariot

It is the 8th day of the Maasi Brahmotsavam with Chakrapani Perumal of Thiru Kudanthai having made his way this Sunday (March 1) morning to the centuries old Rayar Agraharam west of the temple. The popular Soundararajan Bhattar finished a beautiful alankaram of Chakrapani Perumal atop the Golden Horse Vahana just after 7pm, the time slated for the start of the evening vahana procession.

Unfortunately, the ubayadarars of the day are not present and they make Perumal wait endlessly with Kumar Bhattar, the priest anchoring the activities at the Chakrapani temple sitting on the floor.

It has been a long standing battle that the priests have repeatedly lost. There are scores of devotees who have made their way to the mandapam at 7pm and they returned to come back later for they are told that the procession can only start after the ubayadarar mariyathai is done with.

It is an Agraharam that once housed traditional Rayars. The trustee, Prakash, told this writer on Sunday evening that their forefathers were Dewans to a number of Rajahs in the centuries gone by prior to India’s independence.

It is well past 8pm when the families of the ubayadarars arrive for the mariyathai. On this 8th evening, Aathi Varaha Perumal too has made his way to the Rayar Agraharam mandapam and he too is seen atop the horse vahana ahead of the joint procession. 

Wide ranging prasadam is handed out to devotees by the ubayadarars. It is almost 9pm when Chakrapani Perumal finally makes his way out of the mandapam. Residents of the this historic Agraharam come out of their homes to present flowers and fruits. At the south end of the Agraharam the family of the trustees of this once vibrant private locality of the Rayars welcome Chakrapani into their homes followed by Aathi Varaha Perumal. The Nadaswaram artistes present devotional tunes in front of the trustee’s home. 

It is almost 10pm when the Lords bid good bye to this beautiful Agraharam that had come to life on this festive Sunday evening. The two Lords make their way onto the Solaiappan street where residents continue to come out of their homes to present Thattu.

Some of the Sripatham and Kainkaryaparas are glued on to the tense knock out T20 World Cup match between India and West Indies even as the procession heads on to the Chakrapani North Street. It is well past 10pm and would have been sleep time but on this Kuthirai Vahana night, the Vedic Students of the ancient Patshala come out in good numbers and invoke the blessings of the Lord with folded hands. 

                                              Kuthirai Voyali

English Notes and Sripatham Voyali

Almost close to 11pm, the sripatham personnel present voyali in front of the Chariot on the Chakrapani East street to the tunes of English Notes Nottuswaram by the Nadaswaram artistes much to the delight of the devotees receiving the biggest applause of the night. While Chakrapani Perumal made his way on to the Sannidhi street, Aathi Varaha Perumal bid good bye to him and continued on his way to his abode North West of the Chakrapani temple.

In front of the eastern Raja Gopuram, a visibly tired looking Kumar Bhattar, who anchors all the festivals at this temple, is vocal that the mariyathai for the sripatham is to be done at the vahana mandapam and not outside the temple as per the tradition followed by his forefathers telling them that a deviation in 1-2 years in the past does not justify presenting mariyathai in front of the Raja Gopuram. The Sripatham personnel have great regard for Kumar Bhattar, who also takes care of the Parthanpalli Divya Desam in Thiru Nangur, and they nod their approval to his direction.

Shatari and Maalai Mariyathai is presented at the Vahana Mandapa to every single Sripatham who carried the Lord on this day bringing to end the proceedings on this 8th evening of the Maasi Brahmotsavam as the Sripatham personnel head back for a well earned rest for a few hours.

But for the priests there is more on this night. Chakravarthi Bhattar and Kannan Bhattar have arrived at the temple for alankaram of Chakrapani Perumal for the early morning procession to the Chariot. And this goes on till 2am!!! Yes, that’s the way of life for temple priests during Brahmotsavams.

An hour later, the prabhandham members arrive to present the Thiruppavai Ghoshti. It is 4am and Kumar Bhattar is pushing the Sripatham personnel to come together to carry Chakrapani to the Chariot.

                                   

Maasi Magam Chariot Festival

The story goes that once upon a time, the rishis found it difficult to undertake their penance at Thiru Kudanthai as they were continuously troubled by Asura Jalanda. Around the same time, the Sun Lord’s heat in this region was becoming unmanageable. When asked the reason for this over heated state, the Sun Lord replied in an arrogant tone that he was the only source of light and heat and it was his choice to decide the intensity.

The rishis undertook penance at this place invoking the blessings of Lord Vishnu to save them, both from the asura and the heat. Answering their prayers, Lord Vishnu appeared here and hurled the chakra in his right hand to kill the Asura. This chakra was said to have had the power equivalent to several times the Sun’s rays.

Seeing the powerful Chakra swirl from the hands of Lord Vishnu, a threatened Sun Lord went into hiding. A worried Devas came down in a large group here and requested Lord Vishnu to give back the powers of the Sun God so this place could receive the sun rays again. Realising his folly, the Sun God too came out from his hiding, invoked the blessings of Lord Vishnu here and apologised for his arrogant behaviour. In memory of this event, the Sun God performed special poojas for Sudarshana Moorthy on Maasi Magam.

To the presentation of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar’s Siriya Thiru Madal, Chakrapani Perumal makes his way out of the Eastern Raja Gopuram and positions himself atop the Chariot.  While the Ubayadarars are handed out their Mariyathai, the prabhandham members continue their recital with the presentation of Periya Thiru Madal, the final decad of Periya Thirumozhi and Thiru Ezhu Kootrurikkai. 

செல்வம் மல்கு தென் திருக்குடந்தை

அந்தணர் மந்திர மொழியுடன் வணங்க

ஆடு அரவு அமளியில் அறிதுயில்

அமர்ந்த பரம

It is now Monday morning and given the Rahu Kaalam and Yama Kandam, the start of the Chariot procession is scheduled to start after 9am and the priests, who have not slept through the night, are happy with the 4 hour break.

Sarangapani Theppam

There are a few devotees who have an early morning darshan of Chakrapani atop the Chariot even as the attention shifts south to the Sarangapani Koil, where Soundar Bhattar is back to decorate his favourite Lord ahead of the procession to the Theppam. It is 9.30am when Sarangapani Perumal makes his way out of the towering east gopuram to the recital of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar first decad of the Periya Thirumozhi by the Prabhandham members, while at the Chakrapani temple too the chariot procession has begun. 

ஆரா அமுதே அடியேன் உடலம்  நின்பால் அன்பாயே

நீராய்  அலைந்து கரைய உருக்குகின்ற நெடுமாலே

சீர் ஆர் செந்நெல் கவரி வீசும் செழு நீர் திரு குடந்தை

ஏர் ஆர் கோலம் திகழ கிடந்தாய் கண்டேன் எம்மானே  - Thiruvoimozhi ( 5-8-1)

It is past 10am when Sarangapani makes his way via Ramaswamy Koil on to the Theppam for an hour long one round the tank that is now brimming with water. Past 11am, even as Sarangapani is making way around the south side of the tank, Athi Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika are making their way on the Rishabham to the Maha Magam tank for the theerthavari on this Maasi Magam day.

What a morning it was in and around Thiru Kudanthai with Chakrapani, Sarangapani and Aathi Kumbeswarar all in action, each of a different kind – one inside a Theppam, another atop a beautifully decorated Chariot and Lord Shiva on the Silver Rishabham.

Thiru Mangai Azhvaar's Madal: https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2012/10/thirumangai-azhvaars-madal.html

Thiru Ezhu Kootrirukkai: https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/06/thiru-ezhu-kootrirukkai_22.html

Kumbakonam Railway Station Retiring Rooms facelift

This station is seeing a complete makeover with the demolition work on Platform 1 having just started

A year from now, passengers are likely to have access to top notch retiring rooms, dormitories and waiting halls

There are four important stations in the 120 kms main line route between Tiruchirappalli and Mayiladuthurai. While Thanjavur, Mayiladuthurai and Tiruchirappalli have seen a makeover of the railway station, Kumbakonam station had been left behind. Thousands of devotees arrive at this station every day primarily to visit historic temples in this region but the facilities have been below par for a long time. It would have been perfect timing if the railway station had been renovated alongside the route conversation to broad gauge when the train services had come to a halt.

                                  The vibrant canteen till January 2026

One of the differentiators at this railway station has been the canteen on platform 1 that provides good quality tiffin round the clock including till 1am. The canteen has been brought down this week as part of the plan to remodel the railway station. Last month, the building housing another iconic service – RMS – was brought down.

                                          Canteen on 24th Feb

Over the next year, there will be a remodelling of this railway station with the entrance shifted to the location near the erstwhile RMS. Like in Rameswaram and Srirangam, it is likely that the entrance will have a temple gopuram modelled infrastructure. For a long time, this station lacked good quality dormitories and retiring rooms but as part of the current infra upgrade, passengers are likely to have access to these.  The waiting halls too have been quite old fashioned and these too will see a facelift in the near future.

           The location of the erstwhile RMS on Platform 1

For the moment, the canteen that offers almost a 24 hour service has moved to near the ticket counter and will remain there till the renovation work is complete.

Come next year, one is likely to see the Kumbakonam Railway Station offering the best of passenger amenities after the complete makeover on the west side. 

Nachiyar Koil Thiru Mangai Azhvaar Revival

Temple EO Prabhakaran and Former TN Ranji Cricketer K Balaji help revive the Thiru Mangai Azhvaar Thirumanjanam on his Karthigai star day every month

Among the 80 plus temples that Thiru Mangai Azhvaar visited and praised with songs, he seemed to have held Nachiyar Koil in Thiru Naraiyur at the top alongside Thiru Kannapuram and Thiru Kudanthai for he dedicated a century of verses in praise of Srinivasa Perumal of Nachiyar Koil and Sowri Raja Perumal of Thiru Kannapuram, not far from here while also dedicating an entire prabhandham to Aravamudhan Perumal of Thiru Kudanthai.

Thiru Mangai Azhvaar received the Pancha Samskaaram from the Lord of Thiru Naraiyur who he praised as Nambi. He also praised Thiru Naraiyur Nambi as the Lord he had seen at Thiru Venkatam. 

மான் கொண்ட தோல் மார்வின் மாணிஆய்  

மாவலி மண் தான் கொண்டு தாளால் அளந்த பெருமானை 

தேன் கொண்ட சாரல் திருவேங்கடத்தானை 

நான் சென்று நாடி நறையூரில் கண்டேனே 

While Thiru Mangai Azhvaar held a special place at Nachiyar Koil for these reasons, two disturbing events happened in the second half of the previous century. His Sannidhi located a the eastern entrance of the temple was relegated to the background with the office of the HRCE coming up right in front of the exclusive Sannidhi dedicated to Thiru Mangai Azhvaar. And with this, the monthly Thirumanjanam that had been performed on this Saint Poet’s star on Karthigai and the presentation of Thaligai came to a halt.

                      Srinivasa Perumal and Vanjula Valli Thayar

For several decades this had been the scenario at Thiru Naraiyur. And then things changed when a top notch straight forward EO took charge at the temple a few years ago. When the mega repairs work began leading to the consecration, Prabhakar directed for the HRCE office to be shifted away from Thiru Mangai Azhvaar’s Sannidhi so the great Saint Poet could be accorded the respect due to him for having sung a 100 verses in praise of Thiru Naraiyur. On the consecration day, just over two years ago, the Thiru Mangai Azhvaar Sannidhi wore a fresh bright look for the first time in several decades. 

And soon after the consecration, there was a revival of the monthly Thirumanjanam and Thaligai for Thiru Mangai Azhvaar but alas with Gopinathan Bhattar’s focus shifting to external events outside this Divya Desam, the monthly sacred event came to an abrupt halt.

                                      Temple EO Prabhakaran

EO Prabhakaran went through the historical records to find that indeed Thirumanjanam had been performed and Thaligai presented to Thiru Mangai Azhvaar every Karthigai. Soon after the completion of the 20day Adyayana Utsavam that had started at this Divya Desam a day after Thai Amavasai, he called upon the priests of the temple to his office and presented the historical records and asked if right from this Maasi Karthigai they could revive the monthly Thirumanjanam Thaligai.

At around the same time,  former TN Ranji Cricketer and The Hindu's K Balaji (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2020/09/a-blossoming-cricket-career-was-cut.html), came forward as a devotee to commit his support for the revival process to ensure that the event does not come to a halt for lack of devotee support. He told this writer on this Tuesday that he was happy to have been part of this revival of the celebration of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar on this Karthigai day in Maasi.

                                      The Hindu's K Balaji

And thus on this Tuesday (Feb 24)  morning, soon after the Vishroopam sevai, a Thirumanjanam was performed for Thirumangai Azhvaar with the moolavar being draped with a new Vastram marking the long-term revival of this event that had historically taken place at this Divya Desam. This was followed by a Thirumanjanam for the utsavar idol as well. Flower Garlands was also draped on the moolavar and utsavar idols of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar as part of the celebration. The madapalli Paricharakar had by this time prepared Kesari and handed the sacred Thaligai to the priest for him to present to Thiru Mangai Azhvaar. This was presented to all the devotees who visited the temple this morning.

அம்பரமும் பெருநிலனும் திசைகள் எட்டும் 

அலைக்கடலும் குலவரையும் உண்டகண்டன் 

கொம்பமரும் வடமரத்தின் இலைமேல் பள்ளி கூடினான் 

திருவடியே கூடாகிற்பீர் 

வம்பவிழும் செண்பகத்தின் வாசம் உண்டு 

மணி வண்டு வகுலத்தின்  மலர் மேல் வைகு 

செம்பியன் கோச் செங்கணன் சேர்ந்த கோயில் 

திருநறையூர் 

EO Prabhakaran told this writer later in the morning that he would ensure that Thiru Mangai Azhvaar’s great contribution to this temple, one built by Ko Chenganan Chozhan and praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar as the first Vaishnavite Mada Koil built by this Chozha King, will be celebrated appropriately every month in his Sannidhi and that he would ensure that this event takes place on Karthigai day over the next 12 months.

                Thiru Mangai Azhvaar Thiruvadi Thozhuthal on Jan 28

The legendary contribution of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar, who presented the then existing scenario at Thiru Naraiyur well over a 1000 years through his verses of praise, will now be remembered every month on his star day through this ‘Karthigai’ celebration with the revival of Thirumanjanam.

Sembanar Koil Muthu Gurukal

Solo Archaka Kainkaryam in a remote Paadal Petra Sthalam for 25years

It is now just over 25 years since Muthu Gurukal began performing archaka service at the Thiru Gnana Sambandar praised Swarnapureeswarar temple in Sembanar Koil. And this, for a long time at a monthly salary of Rs.350! Once upon a time in the not too distant past, the temple had boasted of an archaka each for Alankaram, Abhisekam, Aradhanam and Archanai. There was also an Adyayana Bhattar and an Othuvar at this temple. Historically, the temple was renowned for its punctuality with a Maniyakaarar directing events as per schedule including the Pancha Moorthy procession. Vishroopam too used to take place early in the morning till 50 years ago. But things had taken a turn for the worse in the second half of the previous century. 

Solo Gurukal for 25years

When Muthu Gurukal was approached by his in- laws, the temple had been in a poor state for a while both in terms of infrastructure and the finances. Walls had broken, bushes had grown thick on the Vimana and at the entrance. There were no devotees, only minimal thattu kaasu was on offer, utsavams had come to a halt with the utsavar idol having been shipped to the security box in Kumbakonam and almost all of the original inhabitants had left this historic temple town. Given this scenario, archakas were not forthcoming to take charge of the Kainkaryam.

Muthu Gurukal’s forefathers hailed from Mathiravelur in Sirkazhi Taluk. His appa had performed archaka service at the Maathaaleeswarar temple there. 

Following the grand celebration of Maha Sivarathri by the villagers on Sunday night, Muthu Gurukal’s non stop work continued with the Amavasai. On Tuesday night, after finishing the cleaning work, so tired was he that he slept inside the temple. He quit academics early to learn the Saiva Agama at the Dharmapuram Patshala and secured a certificate after a stern set of interviews by the agama experts of the time. 

Over the next two decades, opportunities came his way from within and outside the state. He performed archaka service at the Dhandeeswarar temple in Velachery, at the now famous Murugan temple in Skandagiri, Secundarabad, at a temple in Renigunta and  at the Karumariamman temple in Thiruverkadu.

Archaka Service at Rs. 300 per month!!!

His father in law had been performing archaka service at the Swarnapureeswarar temple in Sembanar Koil. But he was ageing and not too of the relatives on that side were willing to continue this kainkaryam as a full time service. When his father in law asked him to come to Sembanar Koil, Muthu Gurukal considered it a blessing to get an opportunity to perform Kainkaryam at a Paadal Petra Sthalam. Though he was to receive only Rs. 300 per  month alongside a few kalam paddy, he nodded to his father in law's offer and moved permanently to Sembanar Koil.

மருவார் குழலி மாதோர் பாகமாய்த்

திருவார் செம்பொன் பள்ளி மேவிய

கருவார் கண்டத் தீசன் கழல்களை

மருவா தவர்மேல் மன்னும் பாவமே- Thiru Gnana Sambandar

Revival of Utsavams

In the time he has been here, Muthu Gurukal has revived a lot of the utsavams. Once he entered the temple, he first revived the Pradosham in a bid to bring devotees into the temple. Over a period of time, he also revived the Aani Thirumanjanam, Navarathri and Anna Abhisekam in Aippasi. On Sunday night, the villagers organised a grand celebration of Maha Sivarathri with devotees thronging the temple.

Restoration of the temple

Leading to the Kumbabhisekam in 2024, the outer walls were rebuilt, the temple tank at the Eastern entrance has been refurbished and is brimming with water. The flooring inside the sannidhi and around the prakara has been remodelled with new stones. A flag post has been installed and vahanas refurbished.

But the financial scenario of Muthu Gurukal has not changed dramatically.  After 25 years of archaka kainkaryam, he now receives a monthly salary of Rs. 3000!!! He remained in financial debt for a long time having had to spend money to educate his children, run the family and conduct his daughters' wedding. Past 60, he remains unchanged. 'I did not take up this kainkaryam for financial returns. It is a great and historic paadal petra sthalam praised by Thiru Gnana Sambandar vibrant with grand celebration of utsavams. I feel blessed that I have had the opportunity to serve Swarnapureeswarar for 25 years. This temple has given me an identity that led to temples across the region to invite me to perform their consecrations" Muthu Gurukal told this writer as he moves on to start his Arathanam Kramam for the day.  

Muthu Gurukal is among a few remaining priests who past 60 continue to serve at a remote Paadal Petra Sthalam unmindful of the abysmal salary. He remains as devotionally committed now as he was at the turn of the century, 25 years ago.

Mayiladuthurai Railway Station Retiring Room

This important junction sports a new look

Battery Car - A boon for Senior Citizens

Mayiladuthurai Railway Station is an important Junction with an increasing number of trains being run through this station given the evergrowing interest in Navagriha temples and many other parikara temples in the chozha region. Of late, trains to Rameswaram too are being run through this route (via Tiruvarur).

For a long time, the station cried for attention but it continued to be ignored. Finally, the junction has received a facelift. The entrance to the temple has seen a makeover of late and the passengers are quite enjoying their entry into the station contrasted with the congested infra in the past. 

The ticket counter has been redone and wears a new look. A number of chairs have been installed outside the ticket counter. To help senior citizens get to their compartment easily as well as to the exit after alighting from a train, a battery car is now in place at this station.

Work is in its final stages in other parts of this station. The retiring room is in the first floor and passengers are hoping that like Trichy and Thanjavur, these rooms too will sport a new look in the near future. 

The platforms are neat and clean with the railway staff continuously involved in sweeping and mopping.

The next time you are there, it is likely that the renovation would be complete and the entire station complex would sport a new bright look.

Thanjavur Station: https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2024/09/thanjavur-station-retiring-room-bathing.html

Srirangam Station: https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2025/02/srirangam-station-new-retiring-rooms.html

Trichy Junction : https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2008/08/retiring-room-tiruchchirappalli.html

Coimbatore Junction: https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/07/coimbatore-junction-retiring-rooms.html

Madurai Junction: https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2020/01/madurai-junction-executive-lounge.html

Thiru Indhalur Parimala Ranganathar Consecration 2026

This Thiru Mangai Azhvaar praised Divya Desam is at its best in many decades following a mega restoration exercise over the last few years and the recent consecration

It has been a long time coming. Two decades after the previous consecration, the Parimala Ranganatha temple in Thiru Indhalur (Mayiladuthurai), praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar, is wearing a new look on a back of a Rs. 1.5crore renovation exercise. Amid the controversies over the last many years surrounding the suspension of a couple of the priests who had been performing service for decades, the consecration earlier this month comes as a breath of fresh air, especially ahead of the Brahmotsavam that will take place next month. It is easily the best that this temple has looked in the last many decades.

எந்தை தந்தை தம்மான் என்றென்று

எமரேழ்  ஏழளவும்

வந்து நின்ற தொண்டரோர்க்கே வாசிவல்லீரால்

சிந்தை தன்னுள் முந்தி நிற்றீர்

சிறிதும் திருமேனி

இந்த வண்ணம் என்று காட்டீர் இந்தளூரீரே- Thiru Mangai Azhvaar

Elastromeric Painting for the first time

A well networked sripatham team along with Sridhar Bhattar and the Sthalathars have worked together in this large scale exercise. The outcome is for all to see and the first fortnight after the consecration has been one of positive feedback from long standing devotees. 

The painting work has been outstanding. One of the sripatham members who runs a tech firm in Mayiladuthurai told this writer that Elastomeric paint was used in this renovation exercise to provide it an everlasting strength.

The entire electrical connection has been redone to match with the new technology. The entire temple complex now shines bright with LED lights, quite contrasted with the darkish zone in the past. 

The roof above the Moolavar Sannidhi has been strengthened to prevent leaks during the rains which the temple experienced in the past. The flooring around the prakara too wears a new look. It is the cleanest that the temple has been in years. The external walls had been in bad shape with broken pieces. These too have been completely repaired and the temple complex presents a bright picture.

The Vaikunta Ekadasi, Panguni Uthiram and Vahana Mandapams had all been in damaged condition and each of these has been repaired.

Chandran’s Curse 

The story goes that Chandran (Moon God) fell in love with his preceptor Brihaspati’s wife Tara and eloped with her, in the absence of his Guru. When Brihaspati found his wife missing, he sought the help of Brahmma who asked Tara to return to her husband. Later, when Tara’s pregnancy came to light, a furious Brihaspati cursed Chandra to deformity saying that the biggest sin of life is to caste one’s eyes on another’s spouse and that Chandran would have to undergo the full severity of the curse for having cast his eyes wrongfully on another's wife.

Another story goes that Dakshan was so taken in by Chandran’s handsome features that he decided to make him the suitor for his 27daughters. However, Chandran was interested only in one of the daughters, Rohini and mockingly ignored the others. Dakshan found that the handsome looks had made Chandran too arrogant and cursed him to immediately lose his youth and his strong luring features.

Repenting for wrongly casting his eye on another man’s wife, Chandran requested Brihaspati to provide him an opportunity for performing parikara that could help him cleanse his grave sins.

3Phased Parikara

As part of the 3 fold parikara, Chandra undertook penance here at Thiru Indhalur after bathing at the sacred Theertham, invoking the blessings of Lord Vishnu. Answering his prayers, Lord appeared before him and agreed to liberate him from part of the sins.(The story goes that Chandran went to Thalai Changa Naan Mathiyam, another Divya Desam about 15 East of Thiru Indhalur, where he was fully liberated from his curse and dosham).Pleased with being partly liberated from his curse, Chandran (another name of Chandran is Indhu) requested that this place be called Indhalur in his memory.

Restoration of the Madapalli

The madapalli had been in a bad shape in the past. This too has received a facelift with new flooring. At a time when historical temples are facing challenges relating to the presence of a full time madapalli cook, Kumar has been a strong presence at the Madapalli over the last dozen plus years. Hailing from Thiru Nangur, he had been initially supporting the temple during the big utsavams in Panguni and Aippasi. Impressed with his commitment, the temple roped him for a full time role at the Madapalli. He has learned on the job and now makes a wide ranging variety of sacred food during the big utsavams in addition to the Thaligai each day of the year. 

He told this writer that he is happy that he has been blessed with a Divya Desam Kainkaryam. From a monthly salary of under Rs. 1500 over a decade ago, he now receives a sizeable salary much to his delight. He resides in a temple quarters opposite the temple which is another positive as there is no travel time involved in arriving at the temple on important festive occasions.

Argument between Thiru Mangai Azhvaar and Lord Parimala Rangan

When ThiruMangai Azhvaar reached Indhalur, Lord Parimala Rangan shut the door on him reasoning that he was late. Upset at this, Thiru Mangai Azhvaar argued vehemently with Parimala Ranganatha. When a friend keeps a thing that we want and does not want to share with us, we typically say ‘Keep it to yourself’ in jest. Similarly, here, with the Lord not allowing Thirumangai Azhvaar an entry into the temple, the Azhvaar asked Parimala Rangan to keep all his beauty to himself and to enjoy it on his own.ThiruMangai Azhvaar goes on to argue that the world would talk about the Lord in bad light as he shut the door on him.

Despite repeated attempts to impress the Lord to allow him an entry, Parimala Rangan maintains his silence. A dejected and frustrated Thiru Mangai Azhvaar decided that he would leave the place as the Stubborn Lord was permitting Darshan.

Thiru Mangai Azhvaar says ‘வாசி வல்லீர் இந்தளுரீர் வாழ்ந்தே போம்நீரே….’ to mean that ‘I am leaving, you yourself live here and enjoy life’.

Sensing that Thiru Mangai Azhvaar would actually leave the place without praising him enough, Lord Parimala Rangan tries to prolong the argument and asks him to sing praise of him. Thiru Mangai Azhvaar replies saying “How can I shower praise on you when you do not allow me to see you”. Lord Parimala Rangan says “You who have sung praises of other Lords, sitting in your place, do sing praise of me too so I can happily listen to your sweet songs.” Thiru Mangai Azhvaar finally fell for it and composed verses of praise on Parimala Rangan.

In this new phase for this Divya Desam, R Parimala Ranganathan (Sukumaran) Dikshithar from Mannargudi who had been away in Bombay and other temples across the country for three decades has made his way back to Thiru Indhalur and well into his 70s now shares the monthly service with Sridhar Bhattar, who had played second fiddle to Ranga Mapillai Bhattar and Muralidhara Dikshithar for many years.

சொல்லாது ஒழியகில்லேன் அறிந்த சொல்லில்

நும்மடியார் எல்லோரோடும் ஓக்க எண்ணியிருந்தீர் அடியேனை

நல்லார் அறிவீர் தீயார் அறிவீர்

நமக்கு இவ்வுலகத்து எல்லாம் அறிவீர்

ஈதே அறியீர், இந்தளூரீரே

Two Priests carrying this temple in its new phase

Sukumaran Dikshithar underwent agama initiation at Tirupathi and Srirangam Patshalas before learning the practical lessons from the revered Kannan Bhattar (Vasan Bhattar’s appa) of Therazhundur Divya Desam. Following these, he joined Thiru Indhalur Divya Desam in 1969 a couple of years after the Samprokshanam and performed archaka service for close to 25years. In the early 1990s, given the extreme financial challenges at this Divya Desam, he moved to Thiruchanur to perform service there and then later performed service at Andavan Ashramam administered temples in Bombay, MP, UP and Bihar and was thus away from this Divya Desam for over 25years before his return to Thiru Indhalur following the suspension of his nephew Muralidhara Dikshithar last decade. 

Hailing from Thiru Nangur, Sridhar Bhattar too went to the Patshala in Srirangam and Kanchipuram to learn the Pancharatra Agama. While he had remained in the background for a long time, his many years of quiet and selfless service is now paying rich dividend and he now plays a lead role at the temple along with Sukumaran Bhattar.

These two priests are now taking this temple into this glorious phase where the temple is seeing a positive revival both in terms of infrastructure as well as devotee support.

Parimala Ranganatha temple is located 2kms North of the Mayiladuthurai bus stand on the Northern banks of Cauvery. This is a Pancha Ranga Kshetram where the Lord is seen in a grand Veera Sayana Posture displaying his four hands. The other Pancha Kshetrams are Srirangam Ranganatha Swamy Temple, Srirangapatnam Ranganatha, Koviladi Appaala Ranganatha and Kumbakonam Madhya Rangam (Sarangapani temple).

An Auto from the bus stand will cost Rs. 80/- and from the Railway station, the usual charge is around Rs. 120. Contact:8122235403

Cab around Mayiladuthurai divya desams: jayaraj@ 97887 76365