Monday, August 5, 2019

Kerala Divya Desams

There are 13 Divya Desams in Kerala that could be divided into three groups – 8 Divya Desams around Kochi, 3 around Thiruvananthapuram and 2 on the Shoranur – Mangalore route. All of these Divya Desams have been praised by Namazhvar in his Tiruvoimozhi. One can have darshan of all these 13 Divya Desams in two days, though it is better to visit the three near Thiruvananthapuram on a separate trip. 

Almost all the temples in the region open at 5am and close at 11am and reopen at 5pm and close at 8pm as contrasted with the Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu. The set of temples around Chenganur is believed to have been visited and built by the Pandavas and are propularly referred to s ‘Anju- Ambalam’. There are also a set of temples around Kochi (three are non Divya Desams) that are believed to have been visited by the four brothers from the Ramayana.

Kutta Nattu Thiru Puliyur, Thiru Chittaru, Thiru Varan Vilai, Thiru Van Vandur, Thiru Valla, Thiru Kadithanam (Chenganasery) can be visited in one half of the day starting at 5am at Thiru Kadithanam (Chenganasery) and ending at 11am at Thiru Chittaru or the other way around. The two Divya Desams around Kochi can be visited between 5pm and 8pm in the evening. On the next morning the two Divya Desams near Kuttipuram can be visited between 5am and 10am,

The three Divya Desams in and around Thiruvananthapuram can be visited on a separate trip between 3am /4am and 11am.

1.    1. Thiru Katkarai – Kochi

Located 10kms North East of Ernakulam, close to the Science and Technology University near Edapalli is the over 1200 years old Thiru Katkarai Appan Divya Desam where the Lord  Katkarai Appan is seen with Conch, Chakra and Padma Hastham.

 உருகுமால் நெஞ்சம் உயிரின் பரமன்றி 

பெருகுமால்  வேட்கையும் என் செய்கேன் தொண்டனேன் 
தெரிவு எல்லாம் காவி கமழ் திருக்காட்கரை 
மருவிய மாயன்  தன் மாயம் நினைதொறே 

Namazhvar refers to lotus flowers growing in large numbers around the temple. He praises the location as being home to fertile groves. He praises the Lord, Thirukatkarai appan as having lotus eyes and beautiful lips and seen with four arms.

Katkarai Appan came here as a Vamana Moorthy to end the troubles caused by King Bali and hence this place is referred to as Vamana Kshetram. To mark this event, it is believed that Lord Vishnu visits this Divya Desam every year on the Thiruvonam day in Avani. Bali is said to have invoked Lord Shiva every day. Hence, there is a Paramasivan Sannidhi to the right of the Perumal Sannidhi, with Bali seen invoking the blessings of Lord Shiva.

Special Plantain Trees
A King tried to plant several plantain saplings but none grew into a full fledged tree. He then decided to present the Lord Katkarai Appan with a Golden Plantain Sapling.  Pleased with the devotional commitment, the Lord is said to have blessed him with a huge number of well grown special plantain trees at this place, now referred to as ‘Nenthram banana’.

Festivals
Onam is the biggest Festival at this temple

The Temple is open from 5am-11am and 5pm-8pm. Contact: Priest S. Venkatan @ 99952 16368 / 97475 36161, Manager Vinod @ 94462 05706 or President Janardhan @ 0484 257 6653

How to reach
The temple is 4kms from Edapalli railway station. An auto to the Divya Desam will cost Rs.150/- from Ernakulam Railway Station A taxi-to and fro- from Ernakulam railway station will cost Rs.400-450/. There are direct buses from Ernakulam Town to this temple (Edapalli)

2.    2.  Thiru Moozhikalam – Lakshmana Kshteram
      Namazhvar in his praise refers to the Lord as being beautiful and at his radiant best. He describes the Lord as having lotus eyes and wears Tulasi garlands. He says that the flower groves of Thiru Moozhikalam give out nectar like drops. Nam Azhvaar in his opening verse of praise on this location asks the true devotees to go to Thiru Moozhikalam to invoke the blessings of the 'pot dancer'.

      தூது உரைத்தல் செப்புமின்கள் தூ மொழி 
வாய் வண்டு இனங்காள் 

போது இறைத்து  மது நுகரும் பொழில் 
மூழிக்களத்து உறையும் 

மாதரைத் தம் மார்வகத்தே வைத்தார்க்கு 
என் வாய் மாற்றம் 
தூது  உரைத்தல் செப்புதிரேல் சுடர்வளையும் களையுமே 

While the Divya Desams around Chenganur relate to the legend from Mahabaratha, this Divya Desam in Thiru Moozhikalam dates back to the Ramayana period and is a temple dedicated to Lakshmana. This is one of the four temples in this region relating to the four brothers.

Baratha, who came in search of Rama, was suspected by Lakshmana to have come to battle with Raama. Lakshmana is said to have prepared himself to taking on Baratha only to be cooled down by Raama. Having wrongly suspected his brother Baratha, Lakshmana is believed to have come here to repent for his wrong doing. Much later, it became a tradition here to worship Lakshmana as the Moolavar deity.

How to reach
Thiru Moozhikalam is about 10kms from Angamaley off the Thrissur- Ernakulam Rail route and around 30kms from Ernakulam on the Mala Road. Buses every 15 minutes from Alwaye (Aluva) to this temple.

For Cab to visit ThiruKatkarai and Thiru Moozhikalam, 9846043666

3. Thiru Varan Vilai – Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple


Located about 10kms East of Chengannur Divya Desam on the Southern banks of the Pamba river on the Pathanamthitta State Highway is the Thiru Kuralappan Divya Desam in Aranmul, said to have been built by Arjuna. This Divya Desam has been praised by Namazhvar as Thiru Vaaran Vilai and symbolises Arjuna’s thanks giving gesture to his sarathy (charioteer) Krishna who guided him through the Mahabaratha war. Arjuna undertook penance here to repentfor the killings of his relatives, especially his brother Karna, who he unceremoniously killed when his chariot was grounded to the earth.

Namazhvar, who refers to Thiru Varan Vilai as one of great fame, praises the Lord as one who is seen amidst groves and surrounded by gardens. Similar to the many of the Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu, this Divya Desam was full of mansions that were so tall that Namzhvar visualised it as almost touching the sky. The devotees of the time were seen worshipping the Lord  in every way possible, through their deeds, with a good heart and by uttering pure words.

Ornaments for Sabarimala Lord
Lord Ayyappa’s ornaments are kept here through the year and are taken from here to Sabarimala 2 days prior to the Mandala Vilakku during the Makara Jyothi period.

The Aranmula Boat Race is  a popular event and takes place at the Pamba River which runs right next to the Aranmula Divya Desam.

Festivals
10 day Brahmotsavam in January
Big Pushpa Abhishekam in May
12 day Kalapam Festival in November when the Lord is decorated completely with Chandanam- a beautiful sight to watch
In March every year, the Goddess from Punnan Thottam temple, about a km east of this temple visits the Aranmula Divya Desam and the two are seen together for a day.
Tulabharam, an age old practice, continues to take place at this temple.

Priest Krishna Kumar Namboodari @ 94471 16689 or 0468 2212170

How to reach
The temple is 10kms East of Chengannur. There are buses from the Chengannur bus stand, opposite the railway station.   An auto from the Chengannur Railway Station to the Puliyoor Divya Desam will cost Rs.100/-.

 4.  Thiru Puliyoor - Bheema Kshetram

ஊர் வளம் கிழார் சோலையும் கரும்பும்
பெரும் செந்நெலும் சூழ்ந்து
ஏர் வளம் கிளர் தண் பணைக்
குட்ட நாட்டுத் திருப்புலியூர் 

சீர் வளம் கிளர் மூவுலகு உண்டு உமிழ்
தேவ பிறான்
பேர் வளம் கிளர்தண்றிப் பேச்சு இவள்
இன்று இப் பனை இழையே 

Namazhvar refers to this place as ‘Kutta Nattu’ Thiru Puliyur as distinguished from the Sirupuliyur 
(near Mayiladuthurai) praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar.  Bheema  undertook penance at this place and created the Puliyoor Divya Desam. Hence, this place is referred to as Bheema Kshetram. On a direction from Lord Vishnu, Indra came on a Tiger and killed the demon at this place. Hence, this place has come to be referred as called ‘Puli’yur.

Festivals
Makara Atham Nakshatram - Brahmotsavam
Thiruvonam Makara Sankara Nakshatram- Kavadi Aattam

The temple is located  6kms West of Chengannur Railway Station on the Mavalikera Highway. Contact Unni Krishnan Namboodari @  99478 31069, 0479-246 4825

5.  5. Thiru Chittaru Imayavarappan Divya Desam, Chenganur

Referred to as the Dharmaraja temple, the East facing Imayavarappan Divya Desam in Chengannur has been praised by Namazhvar as Thiru Chittaru temple in Thiru Chenkundroor.  This is one of the five Pandava brothers related temples in this region.

Unhappy at the death of his cousins in the Mahabaratha war, Dharma Raja, the eldest of the Pandava brothers, came to this place and built this temple. This is believed to be the first of the Vishnu temples built by the Pandavas in this region.

Festivals
Panguni Ashta Nakshatram 10 day Brahmotsavam
Ashtami-Rohini- Birthday celebrations of Krishna
Dasavatharam Utsavam- The Lord gets decorated in different avatarams. On the last day, he takes on the Mohini Avataram
January -7 day Sapthaham Festival- During this Utsavam, Bhagavatham Parayanam takes place every day

The temple is 1km West of the Chengannur Railway Station. Contact Mohan Rao @ 94976 74799 or 0479 2456672

 6. Thiru Vanvandur Pambanai Appan temple
Namazhvar refers to the Pambanai Appan Temple as being on the Northern banks of the Pamba River in Thiruvanvandur. The Lord is seen here with Conch, Chakra, Spear and Mace. Nakula renovated the Thiruvanvandur temple. At the Western entrance, one finds sculptures relating to Kalinga Narthanam and Dasavatharam.
வைகல் பூண்கழிவாய் வந்து மேயும் குறுகினங்காள்
செய்கொள் செந்நெலுயர் திரு வண்வண்டூர் உறையும்

கைகொள் சக்கரத்து என் கனிவாய் பெருமானை கண்டு
கைகள் கூப்பிச் சொல்லீர் விணை யாட்டினேன் காதன்மையே

Namazhvar refers to this as a prosperous location where paddy trees grow tall. He refers to the Lord as being ‘Wealthy’.  One heard the sound of the conches at all times. The place reverberated amidst the chants of Vedic Seers. Namazhvar identifies the personality of the Lord as one with Discus and Conch and describes him as one with red lips, lotus eyes and feet.

Festivals
Ashtami-Rohini Krishna Festival, 11day Festival in Dhanur and 10 day Uthiratadhi festival in Kumbham are celebrated in a grand way at the temple.

Contact priest Parameswaran @ 0479 2427808

How to reach:
The temple is located about 7kms North of Chengannur and about 5kms South West of Thiruvalla on the Erimala route. Auto from Thiruvalla bus stand will cost Rs.125/-

7. Thiruvazh Marban, Thiruvalla 

At the Thiru Vazhmarban Divya Desam in Thiruvalla, the Lord is seen in a standing posture facing the East. The sanctum is in such a way that one cannot see the feet of Thiru Vazhmarban.  The Moolavar Lord is also known by the names of Vallabhan and Kolapiran. This place is referred to as the ‘Vallabha Kshetram’.

Lord Vallbhan disguised himself as a Brahmachari and killed an asura with his chakra. The Chakra is said to have fallen at the place where the temple is situated currently. It is a tradition to organise Kathakali to invoke the blessings of Lord Vallabhan. Another tradition is that the Lord is presented with 12000 ripe bananas, half of which is distributed to the devotees.

Thirumangai Azhvaar, who has not sung praises of too many of the Malai Naatu Divya Desam Lords, has dedicated 10 verses to Thiruvalla Lord and has referred to the Lord as ‘Valla Vaazh’. 
உருவின்  ஆர்பிரவி சேர் ஊன் பொதி நரம்பு
தோல் குரம்பையுள் புக்கு
அருவி நோய் செய்து நின்று,
ஐவர் தாம் வாழ்வதற்கு அஞ்சினா யேல்

திருவின் ஆர வேதம் நான்கு ஐந்து தீ
வேல்வியோடு அங்கம் ஆறும்
மருவினார் வல்லவாழ் சொல்லுமா வல்லை
ஆய் மருவு நெஞ்சே

One can find a number of historical inscriptions inside the temple. There are references to the Thiruvalla Lord in Garuda Puranam and Matsya Puranam.

The other Thiru Vazhmarban temple in Malai Naatu Divya Desam is in Thiruvan Parisaram http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/04/thiruvazhmarban-in-thiruvanparisaram.html

NamAzhvar in his praise refers to a large number of Areca trees and Jasmine gardens around the temple. The Punnai, Magil and Madhavi flowers give a great fragrance to the devotees as they make their way to the temple. Here too, Vedic recital was a regular feature and compares their rendition to the roaring of the sea in high waves.  Namazhvar also refers to thick smoke from Vedic sacrifices that darken the sky.  Repeatedly he refers to the tall groves of Thiruvallaval and water lilies and lotus flowers growing in the water tanks of the temple. He also makes a mention of Sugarcane and Paddy fileds at Thiru Valla.

Festivals
10 day Festival in Poosam
Kathakali Festival is the most popular festival at this temple
Every Saturday morning, there is a special pooja

Contact PK Unnikrishnan Pothi/ Govindan Namboodhari  0469 2700191

How to reach Thiruvalla:
Thiruvalla is located about 30kms South of Kottayam on the Ernakulam-Kottayam-Kayankulam rail route. The temple is about 4kms from the railway station. An auto from the station to the Divya Desam will cost Rs.100/-.  There are buses every10minutes from Kottayam to Thiruvalla.

8. Thiru Kadithanam, Chenganaseri 

The Arputha Narayanan Divya Desam in Thiru Kadithanam is one of the important Kadigai Kshetrams. Legend has it that those who visit the Arputha Narayana Perumal Koil in Changanachery and stay here for at least one Kadigai (24minutes) will be liberated from all sins/curses. Also read http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/03/sholingur-narasimha-at-thiru-kadigai.html

Namazhvar praises the Lord as one seen with Lakshmi on his chest. He says that Vedic recital was a regular feature at Thiru Kadithanam. Kalpa trees were abound in large numbers.

அற்புதன் நாராயணன் அறி வாமணன்
நிற்பது மேவி இருப்பது என் நெஞ்சகம்
நில் புகழ் வேதியர் நான் மறை நின்று அதிர
கற்பகச் சோலைத் திரு கடித்தானமே

Sahadeva is said to have consecrated this temple. This is one of the special Krishna temples in India specifically dedicated for moksham.

There was a festival of dance here at this temple. The belief was that ladies dancing with buckets on top of their head and undertaking prayers to Lord Arputha Narayanan helped them conceive. 10day festival in Virchigam and Narasimha Jayanthi are celebrated in a grand way at the temple.

The temple is 4kms east of the Chenganancheri Railway Station (Kottayam-Kayankulam rail route)
Contact  Vasudevan Namboodari @  94972 22107 or 0481 2435711. An auto from the Chenganacheri Railway Station to the Divya Desam will cost Rs.100/-

9. Thiru Vithuvakkodu - Five Idols temple near Pattambi 

On the western banks of Baratha Puzha River, off the Pattambi – Guruvayur highway is the Uyavantha Perumal Divya Desam at Thiru Vithuvakkodu. The Lord has been praised by Kulasekara Azhvar. Arjuna, Dharmaputra, Bheema and Nakula/Sahadeva created an idol each for their daily poojas at this temple. The main Moolavar deity was installed by Arjuna.  Dharma Raja installed the idol on Southern side as did Nakula and Sahadeva. Bheema installed the idol of Vishnu on the Northern side.

Pleased with a rishi’s prayer, Kasi Viswanathar found himself a small place in the umbrella of the rishi. After his bath, the rishi found the umbrella broken and found a swayambu idol of Lord Shiva at this place. Later, a separate temple was built for Shiva. Hence, this place is referred to as the ‘5 idols’ temple.

Festivals
Janmashtami, Shivarathri are celebrated in a grand way.  Kalababhisekam is presented on Vaikasi Mrigaseesham

The temple is about 5kms South of Pattambi off the Palghat- Shoranur- Kozhikode rail route

Contact Ravichandran and Ramachandran Embranthari @  98460 92853

How to reach:
An auto from Pattambi Railway Station to this Divya Desam (about 7kms) and back will cost Rs.150/-.

10. Thiru Navai
Only Divya Desam in Kerala with a separate Sannidhi for Thaayar 

On the Northern Banks of Barathapuzha River is the Navai Mukundan Divya Desam, praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvar and Namazhvar.  The Lord is seen in an East Facing Standing Posture. On the other side of the river are temples for Lord Shiva and Brahmma. Hence this is said to be a Tri Murthy Sangamam 

Goddess Lakshmi and Gajendran wanted to adorn Lord Narayana with Lotus flowers. However, Gajendran could not locate the flowers and undertook prayers here to Narayana, who asked Goddess to stop plucking the Lotus flowers, thus providing an opportunity to Gajendran to adorn the lord with flowers. Goddess Lakshmi is said to have asked the Lord to provide her with an equal status at this temple. Hence, there is a separate sannidhi for the Goddess here, the only Divya Desam in Kerala.

Nava Yogis undertook penance at this place and are said to have installed the idol at this place. Hence, this place was referred to as Thiru ‘Naa’ ‘Vaai’.

Parasurama performed Tharpanam for his father at this place. Hence, this Kshetram is auspicious for performing ‘Pitru Tharpanam’.

Azhvaar Praise
Thiru Mangai in one of his 2 paasurams refers to Thiru Navai Lord alongside Koshtiyur Divya Desam and Thiru Naraiyur Naachiyar Koil.

கம்ப மா களிறு அஞ்சிக் கலங்க, ஓர்
கொம்பு கொண்ட குறை கழல் கூத்தினை
கொம்பு உலாம் பொழில் கொட்டியுர்க் கண்டு பொய்
நம்பனைச்சென்று காண்டும் நாவாயுலே” -1856

In another verse, Thiru Mangai Azhvar refers to seeing the Thiru Navai Lord at Thiru Naraiyur

தூ வாய புள் ஊர்ந்து வந்து, துறை வேழும்
மூவாமை, நல்கி, முதலை துணித்தானை
தேவாதிதேவனை, செங்கமலக் கண்ணானை
நாவாய் உளானை நறையூரில் கண்டேனே”- 1520

Festivals
10 day festival in April (14-23)

NamAzhvar's Praise of Thiru Navai Devotee
Devotees who think of him and invoke his blessings with sincere devotion will be blessed says Namazhvar in his opening verse in praise of the Lord of Thiru Navai.

அறுக்கும் வினையாயின ஆகத்து அவனை 
நிறுத்தும் மனத்து ஒன்றிய சிந்தையினார்க்கு 

வெறித்தன் மலர்ச் சோலைகள் சூழ் 
திரு நாவாய் 
குறுக்கும் வகை உண்டுகொலோ கொடியேற்கே 

Contact Narayana Namboodari 0494 2603747 or 93876 34946

How to reach
Thiru Navai is about 30kms West of Shoranur on the Palghat - Kozhikode rail route. Take Chennai Central-Mangalore Mail and get down at Kuttipuram Station (630am arrival). A local bus from outside the station will take you to the Divya Desam in 20minutes. Auto from Kuttipuram Station to Thiru Navai Divya Desam will cost Rs.200/-

Not many trains stop at Thiru Navaya Railway station. An auto from Navaya station to the Divya Desam (about 2kms) will cost Rs.30-40/-. Accommodation is available here opposite the temple.

Cab for Thiru Vithuvakodu and Thiru Navai: Santhosh @ 9846953270 / Sasi Thekkadil@8593087980
For cab to visit the 6 Divya Desams around Chenganur, contact: Anoop@ 94462 79788/85477 63079. Approximate charges to cover the 6 temples in one half of the day Rs. 1500.

7 comments:

Prabu D said...

Thank you for the post. It was useful during my recent visit. My journey was as follows:
1st day afternoon: Covered Trivandrum. There is a museum near temple depicting Travancore king's history and it was very nice. Annaporana hotel ~400 metres from temple (near Pazhavangadi Ganapathi Temple) serves very good vegetarian food.

2nd day 1st half (can cover in 4 hours and better to start at 5AM): Chengannur temples.
Stayed at hotel offshore square. Hotel is clean and they offer rooms on hourly basis too. There is a hotel Aryaas in the ground floor and they serve good Veg menu.

Availed auto of Venu Gopalan Nair 9400952177 through driver Selvan. Auto fair Rs.1200-1400.
For taxi one can reach Selvan through 9495873541. For Indica they charge Rs 2200.
Other drivers of interest are: Mohan 9946673868, Anoop 9446279788, 8547763079

2nd day 2nd half: Took auto from Aluva station and visited 2 divya desams. Auto fare 1000 Rupees.

Anonymous said...

Did you cover all malai nadu divvya desams? In how many days?

Anonymous said...

We had the opportunity to visit all 13 malainadu divya desam. We started from Chennai to Nagercoil. Morning we took local bus to Thiruvattar and came back. Evening went thiruvan parisaram. Stay in Nagercoil. Next day morning 6am left for Trivandrum by car. Plenty of buses there. We reached temple. Bought Rs 500 ticket. Had V good darshan. Proceeded same day to alapuzha. Stayed in hotel. Next day morning took car went to thiruchittaru, thiruaranmula, thirupuliyur, Thiruvanvandoor. Evening Thiruvalla and thirukadithanam.
Next day afternoon took a car went to ernakulam. Thirukatkaraiappan is in the city of ernakulam. Then went to thirumozhikalam. About 25 kms from ernakulam.
Alapuzha boat and beach visited.
From alapuzha went to Trichur by train. Visited Guruvayur. Afternoon went to thirunavay and on the way back thirumittacode. Came to Coimbatore and flew to Chennai.

Anonymous said...

Very useful information given

Anonymous said...

Good Infermation, Prabhu Thank you

Balaji said...

Thanks for your block was very useful

Anonymous said...

Thank u so much sir
Very informative