Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi Avathara Utsavam

The Avathara Utsavam of the Revered Acharya of Ramanuja was celebrated over 10 days at Thiru Koshtiyur Divya Desam 

Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi was seen in a grand Nachiyar Thiru Kolam at his birthday procession around the streets of Thiru Koshtiyur on Monday ( June 3)

It is the morning of Vaikasi Rohini, the birthday of the legendary Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi, the acharya of Ramanuja and the one who is credited with initiating Thiru Mandhiram and Charama Slokam secrets in his disciple. 

While the Brahmotsavam receives attention and is well supported by devotees, the contribution of revered acharyas is often forgotten in such remote locations. In the century gone by, the entire East Street comprised of families belonging to the Nambi family. 100s of Nambi descendants lived in the vibrant agraharam.  West of the temple was where the Vadakalais lived. There was great unity in those times between the Thengalayars and Vadakalaiyars. There were also the Smarthas who lived on the Northern side of the temple. Thiru Koshtiyur was renowned for its Patshalas that taught all the four Vedas. 

However, with the passing of time the traditional families have come down to just a few. The descendants of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi led by Adyapaka Ramanuja Nambi continue to live in the Thiru Maligai on the Eastern street and the family has been trying its best to celebrate the  10 day Avathara Utsavam of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi in as traditional a way as possible at the Sowmya Narayana Perumal temple in Thiru Koshtiyur. 

Adyapaka Ramanuja Nambi had roped in prabhandham scholars from different divya desams including from Srirangam to present the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham over the 10 days of the Utsavam.

The descendants of Nambi too have the rights with respect to the Sannidhi including decorating the acharya on festive occasions. 

It is just after 7am on Monday morning (June 3). Adyapaka Ramanuja Nambi and his son Srinivasan are giving the final touches to the alankaram ofThiru Koshtiyur Nambi. At 8am,  as the screen opens in front of the Nambi Sannidhi, one finds him in a grand silk vastram with glittering jewelry.

The Sri Patham Thangis who had committed to making that morning are not to be seen leaving the Nambi descendants in a quandary. The adyapakas themselves then take it upon themselves to carry the acharya to the Sowmya Narayana Perumal for mangalasasanam. After the recital of the prabhandham verses, the huge garland adorned by Sowmya Narayana Perumal was presented to Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi in recognition of his services and for sharing the secret mantras with Ramanuja giving him a majestic princely look.

This was followed by mangalasasanam at Thirumamagal Sannidhi and Andal Sannidhi.

As is the case these days in many divya desams, especially in remote locations, shortage of and absence of Sri Patham Thangis meant that the street procession of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi was dispensed with and he had to accept a simple procession around the outer prakara. The few devotees that gathered at the temple on this sacred occasion enquired about street procession but there simply weren't enough personnel to carry the Acharya on this hot summer morning around the four big streets that would have taken well over an hour to complete.

While there are issues with carrying the Lord and acharyas in remote locations, the descendants of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi had made arrangements for adyapakas to present the 4000 sacred verses over the 10 day period. For around 90minutes, they presented in a highly devotional tone the 10th canto of Tiruvoimozhi followed by Upadesa Ratna Malai in the presence of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi and his disciple Ramanuja.

It was almost 2 pm on this hot summer day in Vaikasi when the long Satru Murai concluded.  By now local residents had gathered in large numbers. Adyapaka Ramanuja, who anchored the 10 day utsavam, provided a sumptuous meal to those present at the temple much to the delight of the local residents leaving them with a happy feel. Many others who came late too were fed well by Nambi's descendants.

The evening of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi’s Thiru Nakshatram is usually the time for a grand Pushpa Pallakku street procession around the four big streets of Thiru Koshtiyur.  Shortage of staff as well as donors meant that this grand procession too was called off leaving Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi to make his way around the streets on a simple palanquin. However, devotees were enthralled to witness Nambi in a terrific Nachiyar Kolam alankaram decorated by the descendants of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi.

Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi's contribution

Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi, an Acharya of Ramanuja, is credited with bringing fame and spreading the name of Ramanuja to the world at large. It is also an indication of the greatness of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi that the Lord of Srirangam himself directed Ramanuja to visit Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi and secure the secret mantras from him so that can be spread to the world for the devotees to benefit.

One of the beliefs is that Lord Narayana who provided darshan as Lord Nambi in Thiru Kurungudi was born as Nam Azhvaar in the Udayanangai Kshatriya mada Nadar Kulam  (referred to as Thiru Kurungudi Piran) and that he was born as Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi also referred to as Thiru Kurugai Piran.

Ramanuja, in his 30s, visited Thiru Koshtiyur 17 occasions to meet Nambi and secured one relevant message each time. It was only on the 18th trip that he undertook by walk from Srirangam that he was initiated with the Thiru Mandhiram secret as well as the Charama Slokam.

Ramanuja gets Emberumaanar Title at Thiru Koshtiyur

Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi initiated the secret Mantra at his house on the East Street, subject to one condition that Ramanuja would not share it with anyone else and that if he failed, he would go to hell. Having learnt the Thiru Mandhiram, Ramanuja came up to the 3rd tier of the towering Sowmya Narayana Perumal temple, called out for the people and recited the Thiru Mandhiram to the world at large.

Shocked at this ‘break of promise’, Nambi questioned Ramanuja on his failure to keep up the promise and the consequence of this ‘public’ utterance. In a stunning reply, Ramanuja said ‘By sharing the Thiru Mandhiram, I alone (one person only) will go to hell but by having shared it with the world at large, several people will get Moksham.’ And hence, he was ready to go to hell.

Delighted with Ramanuja’s reply, Nambi called him ‘Ne Emperumaal Aanar’ (you have become my Lord). Hence the credit for the title of ‘Emberumaanar’ goes to Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi. It is also believed that it was with the intention of spreading the life time messages to the world and to showcasing the greatness of Ramanuja and his determination to secure the secret mantras that Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi decided on making Ramanuja visit Thiru Koshtiyur 18 times.

In memory of this episode, there are separate sannidhis for both Ramanuja and Nambi at the eastern entrance of the temple. Outside the Nambi Sannidhi is a board that contains the list of 18 messages that Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi initiated Ramanuja with.

On the third tier, on the Southern side, there is a beautifully sculpted statue of Ramanuja in a sitting posture to mark the ‘Thiru Mandhiram’ pronunciation to the world.

Nambi assigns Kidambi Aachan as Ramanuja's cook

When Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi heard that Ramanuja was on a fasting spree after being poisoned on a trip around the streets of Srirangam to collect food, he reached the banks of the Cauvery. When Ramanuja saw his acharya, he fell down in full stretch at the feet of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi in the scorching hot sun on the sands of the Cauvery. Much to everyone’s shock, Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi did not ask his disciple to get up leaving the entire body of Ramanuja burning in heat.  An angry Kidambi Aachan, a prime disciple of Ramanuja, questioned this seemingly unruly act of Nambi.

Delighted at this enquiry, Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi presented the real reason for his trip to Srirangam and that Kidambi Aachan was the ideal student to serve Ramanuja. He assigned Kidambi Aachan as the cook to serve food to Ramanuja from that day.

His own son as Ramanuja's disciple

Later, Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi also assigned his son Therkaazhvaan as a student of Ramanuja to be initiated under him.  Thus his own son became the disciple of his disciple for he considered Ramanuja as the greatest Vaishnavite Acharya.

  

The Bottomline

While the programme schedule pasted on the walls of the temple under the signature of Severkudiyan, the EO of the Sivaganga Samasthanam administered temple, indicated a big street procession in the morning and a Pushpa Pallakku procession in the evening on the occasion of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi's birthday, the EO was not present on this sacred occasion to celebrate the birthday of the acharya of Ramanuja, such is the scant respect provided to a revered acharya by the Sivaganga Samasthanam. It is the temple administrators who role it is to ensure that Sri Patham Thangis are present in sufficient numbers for the procession and also ensure the orderly conduct of the Utsavam in a manner as per the official announcement. 

However almost everything is left in the hands of the descendants of Nambi, as far as this Utsavam is concerned - to secure the donors, the Sri Patham, the flower garlands, among other things.

Slow renovation efforts

Renovation efforts too are going at a snail’s pace at the temple. The initiative of the golden vimanam had begun almost 15 years ago but nothing has progressed on that front leaving devotees to wonder as to why that can’t be deferred to a future period if the Samasthanam is not keen on the Golden Vimanam at the moment. The Shiva Sannidhi that had been dug up a few years ago continues to be closed. 

One of the devotees who turned up on the morning of the Nambi's avathara utsavam and wanted to perform an archanai at the Shiva Sannidhi was informed that it was closed and darshan was not possible. This has been the state for a few years now at the Shiva Sannidhi and many other sannidhis at the temple that have been under ‘balalayam’.

The only saving grace of the utsavam was that the descendants of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi  seem to continue to serve their forefathers with devotion presenting the sacred verses each day of the avathara utsavam wanting to do their best in conducting the utsavam in as traditional a way as it once was. They are also looking to renovate Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi's historical Thiru Maligai and are hoping that the disciples residing worldwide would come forward and support the rebuilding initiative.

The temple is open from 7.30 am –12.30 pm and 5 pm-8 pm

How to reach 

Thiru Koshtiyur is 8 kms South West of Tirupattur, 25 kms North of Sivaganga and about 30 kms West of Karaikudi. Buses ply every 10-15 minutes between Tiruppatur and Sivaganga

Direct trains ply every evening from Chennai Egmore to Sivaganga.

MA Venkatakrishnan Thiruvallikeni Divya Desam

One of a kind personality in the Vaishnavite Sect

- Leader of Prabhandham Ghosti, Head of Vaishnavism Dept, Madras University, Author of 25 books with special interest in Palm Leaf Manuscripts, Editor and Publisher of a Journal for 40 years, One of the first to provide LIVE TV commentary on a Divya Desam Utsavam, Upanyasakar and a Fanatic ‘Thengalayar’ supporter 

He has just completed prsesenting the 4000 sacred verses along with prabhamdham ghosti at the two 10 day utsavams at Thiruvallikeni Divya Desam- firat the Brahmotsavam and then the Ramanuja Avathara utsavam.

Unmindful of the hot sun, the 64 year old  Dr. MA Venkatakrishnan will soon be off to the Varadaraja Perumal  divya desam in Kanchipuram to be part of the prabhandham Ghoati at the ten day Brahmotsavam there. Such is his commitment to the prabhandham ghosti as well as to protecting the rights of the Thengalayars.

He may have just as many detractors as supporters even within Thiruvallikeni but he is vocal in safeguarding the rights of the Prabhandham Ghosti. Also, he has no qualms at the general perception of him being a Thengalai Fanatic. Be as that may be, MAV, as he is fondly called, is a rare personality in the Vaishnavite community with stellar achievement over the last five decades. He has provided quite a diverse mix of services in the Vaishnavite world, one that almost none others have possessed in the decades gone by. This rather unique story of this one of a kind personality began right at birth or rather even when he was in the womb of his mother, for in a family of four brothers he turned out to be the only one with strong interests in Vaishnavism.

MAV with brother and former Vikatan photographer MA Parthasarathy 

Leading up to his birth, his mother, Rukmini spent 48 days in the historical temple town of Thiru Narayanapuram in Melkote (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/10/thiru-narayana-perumal-in.html) going around the Pushkarani and invoking the blessings of Lord Selva Pillai. She would then listen to the Kalakshepam of Thirumalai Iyengar and have her first meal of the day only after noon, most times well after 1pm.

It was the fruits of such a sincere penance  at Melkote (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2012/04/vaira-mudi-utsavam-melkote.html) that she was blessed with a son who through his entire life of over six decades has been associated in a strong way in promoting Vaishnavism. Even in her final days, when she found it difficult to walk, his mother (she passed away last year) would take delight in listening to her son’s explanation of the inner meaning of the Divya Prabhandham verses of the Azhvaars.

It was not for MAV to play tennis ball cricket around the streets of Thiruvallikeni in the 1950s and 60s much like the other boys his age and most of his other family members. Instead right from the time he was 6, MAV spent time going to Kalakshepams of Annankaracharya Swami along with his athai (aunt) Krishnammal. He knew no sport or any other pastime other than listening to historical stories of the Lord. Through most of his childhood, he was surrounded by idols and vahanas. Alankaram of the Lord and decoration of the vahanas were the only games he knew of. His forefathers belonged to the Mysore Pradhans and were ministers in the province. In this large family of brothers and aunts, MAV emerged as the first with such a serious intent to promote Vaishnavism. 

With his aunt taking him around to Kalakshepams, almost his entire childhood was spent under the tutelage of Annankarachariar Swami, who spotting the devotional interest asked him to get initiated into the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham. He would often throw up probing questions at the young kid in public on Divya Prabhandham verses and get Venkatakrishnan to answer. By the time he was 16 years old, Annankarachariar Swami coronated him with the title of ‘Medhavi Mani’. He would also get the young kid to present a few verses all of a sudden in front of a large audience. It was one such announcement that led MAV to present his first ever Upanyasam on the Thiruppavai verses before he had touched 20. Seeing the early interest of MAV, he initiated him into the entire process of publishing including proof reading, composing pages and printing. In 1974, when Annankarachariar Swami was to put together a detailed commentary on Tiruvoimozhi, he handed Rs. 1Lakh to MAV and asked him to manage the entire process of the publication which comprised of 6 volumes each running up to 500 pages. This gave Venkatakrishnan both the administrative capability as well as an extreme interest in publishing books on Vaishnavism.

Launches Monthly Journal at 24

Following this experience, Venkatakrishnan exchanged a number of letters expressing interest to start a monthly journal of his own to propagate Vaishnavism. Annankarachariar Swami was initially apprehensive for it was not easy to put together content every month within a certain deadline, let alone managing the process of printing and marketing the journal.

Once again, MAV’s convincing ability came to the fore and with the blessings of Annankarachariar Swami (who suggested that it be named after the Lord of Thiruvallikeni as Gitacharyan), he launched the first edition of the journal as a young 24 year old in 1978. This has now seen four decades without a break.

He had by then already provided LIVE Commentary on Doordarshan for the Kal Garuda Sevai at Nachiyar Koil.

After being initiated with the sacred verses by Goplan Iyengar of Vanamamalai Mutt, in Thiruvallikeni in the late 1960s, Venkatakrishnan began what was to be one of his closest relationships in his early life. He learnt the rest of the Prabhandham verses from Kavalkani Ananthacharya Swami (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/07/thiruvallikeni-prabhandham-ghosti.html) who was the secretary of the Prabhandham Ghosti at Thiruvallikeni. If the association with Annankarachariar Swami led him into understanding the nuances of Divya Prabhandham, his association with Ananthachariar Swami gave him an entry into kainkaryam at the temple.

A Puny Sanskrit Teacher at 20 addressing 90 plus students

It was a phase he also learnt Sanskrit from Damal Srinivasan (almost four decades later, Venkatakrishnan and Perundevi (Damal Srinivasan’s daughter) .shared the stage together on Doordarshan to present LIVE commentary for the Samprokshanam at the Thiruvallikeni Divya Desam a few years ago). That initiation led him into being the only applicant for BA Sanskrit at the Vivekananda College (the rest of the students were ‘forced’ entrants). No sooner did he complete his graduation, he was offered a lecturer’s post at the college. Just past 20 and puny in stature, he was apprehensive of addressing a strong 90+ student batch of PUC. However, his professor convinced him of his inherent talent and he began teaching Sanskrit, a post that he held for a decade. This experience was to hold him in good stead during his three decade long association with the Vaishnavism Department at the Madras University.

Prabhandham Acharya

By the mid 1970s when he just in his early 20s Venkatakrishnan had already begun teaching Divya Prabhandham to young kids in Thiruvallikeni. The strength of the students numbering over 50 remains the highest to this day at Thiruvallikeni. Many of his students are now an integral part of the Ghosti.

His Magnum Opus

Listening to the Kalakshepams of Govinda Narasimhachariar Swami, who came all the way from Srirangam exclusively for MAV and having already been exposed to the publishing route, MAV began a long journey of publishing books. The Magnum Opus of his life has been the publication of an 800 page book comprising of anecdotes from the Divya Prabhandham interspersed with intricate meanings of the verses of the Saint Poets.  It has been such a hit with the readers that it has gone into 7 reprints. He was also presented the Doctorate in Literature for this effort.

Palm Leaf Manuscripts

Yet another of his differentiated interests in life was to read from Palm Leaf manuscripts. After intense efforts of searching historical literature, he came up with a Vyakyanam for the Iyarpa verses. The effort included searching and finding relevant manuscripts, physically checking each of the 700 folios, oiling and cleaning the manuscripts and reading each one with lens. It was with support from his wife  whom he married in November 1982 that he was able to successfully complete this book. The two would sit for three hours each evening from 9pm to scan through the entire manuscripts.  

MAV and Vaishnavism Dept at the Madras University

When the 125^th anniversary celebrations of Madras University were to be held, advocate NC Raghavachari, who fought many of the court cases relating to the temple, sought MAV’s help in idea generation for the event. It was on MAV’s suggestion that the Vaishnavism department was launched at the University. Much to MAV’s surprise, he was asked to be part of the launch team. Thus he began his Vaishnavism teaching career alongside the then stalwarts M Narasimhachari and Raghavan, a career that extended for almost the next three decades.

Though Narasimhachari was the HOD, he was a rather quiet personality and it was MAV, the marketer who built a strong network within the University so much so that many in the University would come searching for MAV, the HOD. Such was the humility of Narasimhachari that he would let it be and would often inform the visitors that HOD Venkatakrishnan had gone out and that he would inform the HOD once he is back. This was a story that he would often narrate to an embarrassed MAV, one that would end with the remark ‘You will anyway head and steer this department one day’.

After the launch of the Vaishanvism department, MAV encouraged his wife to take up Vaishnavism and later she on went on to become a lecturer at the University. And the two worked together in the department for over two decades.

Temple Service

The late 80s and the 90s saw him move closer to temple service though it was a rather quiet time for him as a Ghosti member. 

He was keen on performing the Kattiyam service while he could anyway be part of the prabhandham recital even standing even in the last row. It was only after the successful conduct of the Samprokshanam in 1992 (that MAV anchored in terms of fund collection), that he was finally asked to join the adyapaka team. In 1999, he became the Secretary of the Adyapaka Ghosti, a post that he has now held for 20 years. It was a phase that has seen a big revival of the Ghosti, now seen in big strength at the temple.

MA Venkatakrishnan has many achievements to his credit over the last five plus decades – author of 25 books, running a monthly journal for over 480 issues, 45 years of Upanyasam, anchoring and managing the success of the Ghosti for over two decades, heading the Vaishnavism Dept at the University for a decade and more recently training the next generation of Kalakshepam scholars. He has been a prominent face in this Divya Desam that is renowned for Prabhandham recital. And it is likely that he will continue to be a motivating force for the next generation of Prabhandham experts. 

For all his push for the Thengalai rights, Venkatakrishnan had just over a decade ago tried to stitch together a solution that should have been seen as a step in the right direction. Forming a committee with representatives from all the Mutts including from Ahobila Mutt and Andavan Ashram, he tried to take the first step in resolving the long standing issues in temples through arbitration. However, the initiative was nipped in the bud with differences of opinion even at the formation stage with the result that the last decade has seen growing number of cases in courts.

Arbitration within the community may still be the way to resolving issues and MAV is hoping that someday the community will come together to discuss hard and find an amicable solution to the pending issues. If the arbitration model takes shape one day, there may be yet be a day during his lifetime when the Prabhandham Ghosti of Thengalayar and Vadakalayar will be seen together in Thiruvallikeni, Thiruvahindrapuram and Kanchipuram.

For now, though, he will be spending the next week or so on the sacred streets of Kanchipuram trying to continue the Prabhandham recital on the return trip of Varadaraja Perumal to the temple during the Brahmotsavam.

Bhattars Gurukals continue Temple Service

Priests resisted the temptation to look at greener pastures in the Corporate World and stuck to their hereditary service in temples

In November last year, this section had featured a story on the next generation priests turning their backs on the traditional services at temples, instead opting for lucrative careers in the corporate world (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/11/bhattars-gurukals-move-away-from-temples.html)

This story takes a look at a few who bucked that trend and have taken a big call to dedicate their lives in service to the Lord despite not having a secure salary from the HR & CE. For all of these next generation priests, the mind is clear away from the clutter. Each of them wants to serve the Lord at the hereditary temple, where their forefathers had served for several decades.

No appointment, No Salary but dedicated to serving the Lord

In the 1980s, even one padi rice was not available at the Amaruviappan Divya Desam in Therazhundur for presentation to the Lord. It was left to the then young Vasan Bhattar to go from house to house collecting rice to present a Thaligai for the Lord each day. 

There was not even a single Veshti to wrap around the Lord bringing tears to Vasan Bhattar. Just over a decade ago, it was Brahmotsavam time. Much to the shock of Vasan Bhattar, who had served the temple for almost 25 years at that time, the power connection was cut off for non-payment of bills. Such was the state of this ancient Divya Desam in the not so distant past and the struggles the then priests had to go through in running the daily activities and in the conduct of the utsavams.

Vasan Bhattar has been performing aradhana at the Therazhundur Divya Desam since 1984. He received the HR & CE appointment only three years ago after over 30 years of service and that at a monthly salary of Rs. 280. When Vasan Bhattar was young, his father, who performed aradhana for over 8 decades, directed him to learn the agamas, prabhandham and vedas from each of the experts who resided in the town at that time. His father had wanted him to perfect the art of performing the daily rituals and only then was he allowed to enter the temple precincts such was the value placed on learning the right way.  That early learning has helped him gain recognition as one of the best bhattars in the State.

When he entered the sanctum for the first time, he was given a life time message by the then Sthalathar Varadachariar “Every time you enter the Sanctum, remember that you have been chosen among crores of people in India to perform aradhana and feed the Lord at this Divya Desam.” To this day, 35 years later, Vasan Bhattar remembers that message every time he touches the Moolavar Lord.

In his first decade at the temple, Vasan Bhattar received Rs. 1 in the Thattu every month. Despite all the challenges at the temple, he has found great satisfaction in serving the Lord each day of the year.

When his son Hari Sundar entered the teenaged phase, Vasan Bhattar called him and told him that the family has been blessed with the opportunity to perform lifelong service to the Divya Desam Lord so highly praised by Thirumangai Azhwar “No amount of financial glory can be a substitute for performing service to the Lord. And I wanted my son to consider this advice.”

Hari Sundar was a transformed boy, immediately. He quit academics and over the past decade has focused purely on temple service related education and now for the last three years on performing service to the Lord at this Divya Desam.

26 year old Hari Sundar had seen, from a very young age, the struggles of his father (Vasan Bhattar) and grandfather (Kannan Bhattar), who had served for over eight decades, in managing the temple without any support from the HR & CE. As a school boy, his mind was on taking up a bank job. All his peers in the Chozha region went through a similar phase of financial struggle. The entire mood and sentiment was to move away from a life at the temple towards a corporate career in the city.

However, when he touched 15, Hari Sundar, driven by his parents (See Box story) decided to showcase to the world that continuing the hereditary service and performing aradhana to the Lord at a Divya Desam was the way to happiness and not going after money and the luxuries of life. He quit academics and left for Srirangam to join the Velukudi Krishnan run Patshala. For a decade, he learnt the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham, Pancharatra Agama and also acquired a degree in Sanskrit.

But it was a very challenging phase for him. Constantly, he was pushed by his peers to move into corporate life and away from the traditional Vaishnavite attire. His friends gave him the shock treatment that in his current form, it would be difficult to find a bride, especially if he decided to take up service at the remote Divya Desam staying in an agraharam.

Undeterred, Hari Sundar completed his patshala education and moved to Therazhundur to join his father in temple service. There was no appointment order and no salary (there still isn’t!!) for it was the view of the HR & CE that without sufficient income from the temple, it would be difficult for them to pay the salary of the Bhattars.

It has now been three years since he has been performing full-fledged service at the temple as a Bhattar depending solely on ‘Thattu’ Kaasu. While many of his peers have moved into city life, Hari Sundar Bhattar is determined to spend his lifetime at Therazhundur performing service for the Lord unmindful of the lack of a secure monthly salary from the HR & CE. And that is a highly commendable decision taken by this young priest. And he has also found a bride who despite spending her first 20 years in Bombay has happily accepted to live the rest of her life at the remote temple town of Therazhundur.

Reviving a historical location in Mangai Madam                       

Balaji Bhattar was just 20 years old when he returned to Mangai Madam to take up service at the Veera Narasimha temple, one of the Pancha Narasimha temples around Thiru Nangur and a location where Thiru Mangai Azhwar performed the Thathiyeeraadhanai for 1008 Vaishnavites as per the condition laid by his beloved Kumuduvalli Nachiyar of Annan Perumal Koil. 

At the time, it had been in a completely dilapidated state with broken floors and falling roof.  The outer walls had been completely damaged. Nothing seemed right at this legendary location. When the young Balaji Bhattar came back after completing his Vedic and Agama, he began the process of resurrecting the temple from ground up.

After his initial schooling in Nangur, Balaji Bhattar came to Mylapore, Chennai to learn the Vedas but his real initiation into the agamas came from the renowned Lakshmana Dikshithar of Parthan Palli Divya Desam. He then took over full charge of the temple and has since revived a number of the historical Utsavams including the Brahmotsavam. At a young age, he grasped the model of capturing the devotee’s attention inside temple and getting them interested in temple activities.

His mind is all focused on making this temple an integral part of a devotee's Nangur Divya Desam trip.  Already there are devotees making their way to the temple from distant corners of the world. In a matter of a decade, Balaji Bhattar has showcased to the archaka community that with commitment and devotion to the Lord, one can succeed and find happiness even from the remotest part and that the future is not so bleak for the Bhattars if the starting point of their Kainkaryam is devotion to the Lord.

Attached to Lord Thyagaraja

33 year old G Somaskandar Sivaacharya belongs to a family that has been performing poojas at the legendary Thyagaraja temple in Tiruvarur. His grandfather performed service for over four decades while his father dedicated himself to the Lord and Ambal for over 50 years.  Belonging to hereditary service, they have stayed away from the monthly salary and are almost fully dependent on ‘Thattu Kaasu’. 

In decades gone by, they were handed a reasonable quantity of paddy for their service. But financially, things had not been rosy for the priests at the temple in the 2^nd half of the previous century. By the time, Somaskandar was into his teenage years his father sent a clear message that he expected his son to continue the temple service though most of his peers at other Thevaram Sthalams were already heading towards a life in bigger cities. After learning Siva Agama, he spent 5 years at a patshala in Mayiladuthurai learning the Vedas. Right from his school days, Somaskandar has been supporting his father every day, thus gaining hands on experience of the sacred activities at the temple. After he joined full time service at the temple just around a decade ago, there have been tempting lucrative opportunities that have come his way including from overseas temples. The traditionally attired Somaskandar happily says that not once in his life has he contemplated moving away from the Tiruvarur temple and dedicates this thought to Lord Thyagaraja who he says has bound him tightly to the service at this temple .

An Engineer pursues hereditary service

35 year old R Kamala Malar Kannan Bhattar of Thiruvellarai Divya Desam is unique in this small group of next generation priests. He has an Engineering degree from Sastra University. Given the financial challenges that his ancestors experienced, he was headed the way of a city life as a teenager following in the footsteps of some of his seniors. But as he was completing his degree, his bonding and devotion towards Lord Pundareekakshan increased and he decided against the call to leave this ancient temple town. 

But it still required great devotion for him to reject an offer from a renowned bank and to take up the hereditary temple service without a salary. He has now been at the temple for a decade. While things have improved financially at the temple in terms of Thattu Kaasu, compared to the life decades ago, he feels the real financial pinch every summer when he has to pay the annual fees for his young school going kids. He does not know the financial future and may wonder once in a while as to what might have been had he taken up the Banking offer but this engineer is clear that he will spend the rest of his life at the Thiruvellarai temple in service to Lord Pundareekakshan.

The Youngest moves back to Thenthiruperai

The youngest of the lot is 20 year old Venkata Srinivasan, just out of Patshala education at Madurantakam. Hailing from Thenthiruperai Divya Desam (Nava Tirupathi), he went through a financially challenging childhood.  As a school boy, he would support Ananthu Bhattar, the lead priest at the Makara Nedung Kuzhai Kathan temple by carrying the torch during the street processions at the big utsavams. Pleased with the devotional conduct of the young boy, Ananthu Bhattar encouraged and motivated him into temple service. At the age of 10, he moved to Madurantakam to learn Yajur Veda, Pancharatra Agama, Sri Bashyam and Sanskrit.  During a period of 10 years, he also performed kainkaryam at the madapalli in the Patshala. 

The message from his Guru Annadhur Rajagopalachariar through this phase was clear “The learning should fructify into developing our Sampradayam, spreading Sanskrit and most importantly taking care of your parents at their old age. Do not succumb to financial temptations and the lures of a city life.”

In addition to the above message that has remained entrenched in his mind, he credits Ananthu Bhattar’s constant motivation over the last decade as being a key driver to return to Thenthiruperai “There was a shortage of service personnel at the temple. He secured an employment for me at the temple and asked me to dedicate my life in service to the Lord.”

Venkata Srinivasan joined Thenthiruperai in June last year as an Archaka and Paricharaka at a monthly salary of Rs. 500. He is keen to spread Sanskrit among the villagers over the next decade by educating them during his free time. His parents have been a great source of strength in supporting his decision to lead his life in temple service as against leading a life in the city.

His friends frowned on his decision to move to a remote location at such a young age and at such an unimaginably low salary instead of leveraging financially his Vedic learning. But Venkata Srinivasan has been very clear in his mind that his future lay in service to the Lord of Thenthiruperai Divya Desam. Financial challenges do not concern this youngster nor does the threat of his traditional Kudumi not finding acceptance among prospective brides. In a world that is clearly moving towards materialistic pursuits, Venkata Srinivasan has bucked the trend and taken a bold step of moving back to the ancient temple town despite knowing that this may not be financially remunerative. But Venkata Srinivasan sees richness in a lifetime service to the Lord of a Divya Desam and not the financial growth.

Thiru Kodikkaval Brahmotsavam Rishabha Vahanam

Following the renovation of the temple earlier this decade, devotees have come together to revive the Brahmotsavam after a century

Lord Thiru Kotteeswarara and Ambal Thiru Bhuvanasundari provide darshan around the streets of Thiru Kodikkaval on a Rishabha Vahanam

In centuries gone by, several festivals were celebrated in a grand manner including the Brahmotsavam, the Maha Utsavam in Maasi and Vasanthotsavam in Vaikasi at the Thirunavukarasar and Thiru Gnana Sambandhar praised Thiru Kotteeswarar temple in Thiru Kodikaaval, one whose legend relates to Lord Saneeswarar’s penance and to the visit of Yama Dharma Raja and Chitragupta. As part of the Brahmotsavam, Thiru Kotteeswarar on Yama Vahana and Ambal Thiri Bhuvanasundari on Yamini Vahana used to come out on a grand procession. Unfortunately, for over a century, Brahmotsavam had come to a halt and there had been no other big festivals at this temple. With the renovation of the temple in 2014 (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2013/11/thiru-kotteeswarar-temple-thiru.html), a few of the historical festivals that were popular at this temple in centuries gone by are being revived, most notably the Brahmotsavam this year.

Last Friday (April 19), on the occasion of Chitra Pournami and on the concluding day of the 10 day Brahmotsavam, Lord Thiru Kotteeswarar along with Ambal Thiru Bhuvanasundari provided darshan to devotees on separate Rishabha Vahanams, an event that has taken place after a hundred years much to the delight of the residents of Thiru Kodikkaval, all of whom were witnessing a Brahmotsavam for the first time in their lives, though many of the now senior citizens in this ancient temple town had heard enlightening stories of the grand celebration of the festival from their grandfathers.

As an indication of the conduct of the Chariot Festival, there still exists a ‘Theradi’ at the far Eastern end of the Mada Street. Subramanya Gurukal, of Kanjanur, who supported Dhandapani Gurukal in the 2^nd half of the previous century at Thiru Kodikkaval had seen the presence of the centuries old chariot. However, with the passing of time, this lay in a dilapidated condition with parts being taken off from the chariot until it was finally done away with.

Revival by a devotee after 100 years

Through the efforts of 75 year old N Ganesan, the great grandson of renowned Violinist Thiru Kodikkaval Krishna Iyer, the Brahmotsavam has been revived this year. However, the finances are still not strong enough to rebuild all the vahanams.  Hence this year, the temple has outsourced all the vahanams from the Kanjanur temple. The plan is to rebuild almost all the vahanams in time for the Brahmotsavam next year.

Ganesan, who had his school education here in Thiru Kodikkaval, remembers the agraharam “There were 150 traditional families in the long and vibrant agraharam till the 1950s. The agraharam was full of Ganapadigals and Sastris. Thiru Kodikkaval and the surrounding villages were filled with renowned musicians.”

Even today, the Thiru Kotteeswarar temple has in its possession over 100 acres of land. However, income from these lands have long dried up, forcing devotees such as Ganesan to look at external funding to revive and conduct the traditional utsavams. Bringing together a number of the original inhabitants of Thiru Kodikkaval, Ganesan organised funds that ran up to almost Rs. 10 Lakhs for the 10 day Brahmotsavam.

Delightful sight of the Lord on the Rishabha Vahanam

Early on Friday morning, Thyagaraja Gurukal, along with his team of youngsters who supported him through the Brahmotsavam, went about decorating the Lord and Ambal ahead of the Rishabha Vahanam procession. By 6am, the two deities were seen glittering with jewels and necklaces and beautiful flower garlands specifically made for the occasion.

The long concluding day of the Brahmotsavam began with an abhishekam of the Lord and Ambal. Shortly after 8am, Lord Nataraja and Sivakami went on a procession to the Theradi marking the completion of the 10 day Yaagam. By 10am, the villagers had gathered in a good number at the temple ahead of the Rishabha Vahanam procession, an event that they were witnessing for the first time at this temple.

The entire temple town was dotted with large white kolams. Just after 11am, soon after the vedic chants and recital of the verses of praise of the Saint Poets on the Lord of Thiru Kodikkaval, Ambal Thiru Bhuvanasundari and Lord Thiru Kotteeswarar , mounted on two separate Rishabha Vahanams, began a two hour procession around the four big streets of Thiru Kodikkaval that wore the traditional festive look for the first time in a century. 

Following the procession and marking the conclusion of the festival, Theerthavari was conducted at the sacred tank.  In the evening, the flag was brought down signifying the completion of the Brahmotsavam.

Just a day earlier, huge number of devotees from all the surrounding villages had gathered to pull the Chariot that had been assembled as a one off exercise for just the Brahmotsavam. As part of the Kalyana Utsavam, earlier in the week, there was a sumptuous Anna Dhanam organised inside the temple on the lines of the one described in the inscriptions at the temple around a 1000 years ago.

All of the devotees and the traditional residents of Thiru Kodikkaval are hoping this to be the beginning of the long term revival of all the historical utsavams at this temple and to have vahanams and chariot of their own in the not so distant future.

Temple Legend

The story goes that Saneeswarar undertook penance here invoking the blessings of Lord Thiru Kotteeswarar. Since his vision caused sadness to people, he shut his eyes in disgust not wanting to cause any more trouble. Thiru Kotteeswarar appeared before Saneeswarar and preached the doctrine of truth suggesting to him that it was actually he who helped people realise the sins they had committed and that it was his contribution to their well being for only after he set his eyes on the wrong doers did they take corrective steps to cleanse the sins. Being a student who was preached by Thiru Kotteeswarar, Saneeswarar is seen here in a ‘Baala’ (small) Posture.

Yama, Chitragupta and Thiru Kodikkaaval temple

Unable to accept the unjust killing of Markandeya Rishi and wanting to repent, Yama was born as a cow with Chitragupta as a calf. On Sivarathri, the Devas requested Thiru Kotteeswarar to direct Yama Dharma Raja to accept his post so justice could be brought back to the world. 

Yama and Chitragupta took bath in the sacred theertham and were liberated from their own sins. They assumed their original forms, went back to play their assigned roles and thus brought back sanity into this world. In memory of this episode, there is a separate sannidhi for both Yama Dharma Raja and Chitragupta inside the temple.

Thiru Kodikka temple is one of the five ‘Kka’ Kshetrams, others being Thiru Kolakka, Thiru Nellikka, Thiru Kurukka and Thiru Aanaikka.

Praised by Appar and Sambanthar

Saivite Saint Poets Thirunavukkarasar and Thiru Gnana Sambanthar have praised Lord Kotteeswarar. While Appar refers to the fact that where ever he goes, he finds Lord Shiva as the one whom he saw residing at Thiru Kodikkaaval, Thiru Gnana Sambandar suggests that any day is a good day to visit Kodikkaval to have darshan and seek the blessings of Thiru Kotteeswarar.

Revival of Historical Utsavams

10day Brahmotsavam with the Theerthavari on Chitra Pournami

Navarathri Utsavam for Ambal

6day Kantha Shasti Utsavam

Theerthavari in Cauvery on the 4 Sundays of Karthigai

Pancha Moorthy Procession and Theerthavari on Maasi Ammavasai

An annual trip of Kanjanur Lord to Thiru Kodikkaval immediately after Maasi Magam

Inscription Insights

Ancient inscriptions provide interesting insights into the functioning of the temple, the deities inside the temple, the direction to the temple, the name of this place, the blowing of conches during pooja time and the reconstruction and renovation efforts.

Inscriptions refer to Tulabara Ceremonies performed at this temple. An inscription refers to the gift of land for blowing 2 conches in the temple. The temple was reconstructed by Sembian Mahadevi converting the then existing brick structure into a granite structure. During the Chozha rule, there was an agreement to pay taxes on land endowed to the Thiru Kodikkaval temple with the objective of feeding devotees visiting the temple. A gift of land was made to the temple for supply of 5pots of water daily from the Cauvery for the sacred bath of the deity. There was also a gift of land for the Nandavanam and a gifting of gold for the construction of Madivalagam.  Inscriptions also refer to gifting of gold and paddy for lighting perpetual lamp.

How to reach

Thiru Kodikkaaval is 7kms North East of Aduthurai and 2kms North of Thiruvalankadu on the Northern Banks of Cauvery.

( A Version of this story featured yesterday in The Hindu Friday Review)

Kanchipuram Divya Desams Renovation works

Pandava Dhoothar Divya Desam saw support from Kanchi Periya in the 1980s in its previous large scale renovation exercise but repair works have remained 'in plans' for many years now

Its well over a century since full fledged repair works took place at the Pavala Vannan Divya Desam and Pachai Vannan Temple

Brahmotsavam has not taken place at Pavala Vannan Divya Desam for over five decades while at the Pandava Dhoothar Divya Desams it has been over 30 years since the last Brahmotsavam

Shops that have sprung up in recent decades now form the outer wall of the Pachai Vannan Temple

It has been a hard grind as far as renovation work is concerned for several Divya Desams in Kanchipuram. Many of the temples have found it difficult to even start the repair works for want of funds.  Unlike in the past, when renovations used to take place in a haphazard manner, the temples now have to go through the stringent process of securing the approval from the court directed screening committee. It has been three decades at Pandava Dhoothar Divya Desam and over a century at Pavala Vannan Divya Desam and Pachai Vannan Temple since they saw any large scale repair works.

In light of this, renovation, after almost two decades, at the Sonna Vannam Seitha Perumal temple in Thiru Vekka, Kanchipuram, a Divya Desam praised by NamAzhwar, Thirumazhisai Azhwar, Poigai Azhwar, Peyazhwar and Thirumangai Azhwar, assumes significance.

The story of Lord’s Maaru Sayanam

Thirumazhisai Azhwar came here and performed service to Lord Yathokthagaari with the assistance of his disciple Kanikannan. When the ruler ordered Kanikannan out of the kingdom for failing to sing praise of him, Thirumazhisai Azhwar too followed suit taking along with him the Lord of Thiru Vekka plunging the whole place into darkness.  Realising his folly, the king apologised and requested them to return to Kanchi. As an indication of his departure from the temple and his subsequent return, the Lord is said to have slept in the opposite direction. This Maaru Sayanam of the Lord sleeping from South to North is a special feature of this Divya Desam.

As the Lord acceded to the request of Thirumazhisai Azhwar, he came to be called as ‘Sonna Vannam Seitha Perumal’.

This episode of the Lord leaving the temple along with Thirumazhisai Azhwar is enacted every year on Thai Magam on the occasion of Thirumazhisai Azhwar’s birthday with a trip to the Palar. Later in the day, the garland worn by Thirumazhisai Azhwar at Thiru Vekka is sent to his avathara sthalam at Thirumazhisai for the evening festivities at the Jagannatha Perumal temple there.

Phase 1 of Renovation

Repair works undertaken at the Sonna Vannam Seitha Perumal Koil over the last 8 months at a cost of around Rs. 50Lakhs have been completed. In recent times, during monsoon rains, water had been seeping into the temple complex. 

The roof of the Perumal Sannidhi complex has been completely revamped using 12000 new tiles to prevent water leaks.  This has been the biggest repairs that the temple has seen as part of the current renovation efforts.

A new electrification system is being put in place. In the past the temple had been poorly lit. For the first time, new LED lights are being installed to illuminate the pathway around the prakara.

The entire phase 1 of the renovation has been fully funded by donors.

Phase 2 over the next six months- Refurbishing the Tank

Poigai Kulam, the sacred tank North of the temple has been in a dilapidated state and is being completely refurbished. 

The Neerazhi Mandapam in the middle of the tank had fallen apart. This is being fully rebuilt now from scratch. New compound wall will also be constructed. Given the enormity of the work involved, this will be taken up in phase two of the exercise over the next six months. The repair works at the tank is likely to cost another Rs. 50 lakhs.

  

The temple is open between 8am-11am and 5pm-8pm

Pandava Dhoothar

It is 30 years since the last Samprokshanam at Pandava Dhoothar Divya Desam in Thiru Paadagam, a temple praised by four Azhwars. It was with the full financial support of Sri Maha Periyava of Kanchi Mutt that the previous large scale renovation works spanning a period of 5 years from 1984 had been undertaken. 

The Raja Gopuram now wears a faded look. There are shrubs atop the Perumal Vimanam. The tank too needs sprucing up. Flooring in the entire complex has to be repaired.  The outer wall of the temple complex needs to be strengthened. Brahmotsavam has not taken place in three decades. Vahanas have to be repaired whenever the Brahmotsavam is revived. A full fledged renovation is expected to cost upwards of Rs. 50 Lakhs and the temple is looking to have the donors in place for the entire work before embarking on the renovation exercise. Those interested to contribute may contact Trustee TV Rajakumar on 044 27231899.

A Couple of kms away from the above temple is the Pavala Vannan Divya Desam praised by Thirumangai Azhwar in his Thiru Nedunthaandagam. This temple too is in dire need of a restoration exercise for there has not been a full-fledged large scale repair works for over a century. It is saddening to see the sacred tank in front of the temple filled with debris. The Raja Gopuram, Vimanams have not been painted for several decades. The madapalli too is in a bad shape. Brahmotsavam has not taken place for over five decades. 

At the Pachai Vannan Temple half a km from this Divya Desam, multiple shops that have sprung up in recent decades serve as the outer wall of the temple. On top of this, there is a battle brewing between the trustee and the HR & CE, which is looking to take over the two temples citing mismanagement. Any renovation work is likely to commence only after this dispute is sorted out.

Thiru Neelakudi Neelakanteswarar

Appar Praised the Lord as one who relieves the pains of the sincere devotee

Markandeya initiated a Seven Village Procession in Chitrai in a thanking gesture to the Lord for extending his life

The Thiru Neelakendaswarar temple in Thiru Neelakudi, an ancient Thevaram Sthalam, 10kms from Kumbakonam, praised by Thirunavukarasar and Thiru Gnana Sambanthar is in a state of flux. Last week, Thiruvaduthurai Atheenam that manages the temple asked the Gurukal who had served there for well over two decades to take a one month break for failing in his duty on the Maha Sivarathri night and the day after. The Gurukal’s father had performed pooja at this temple for 3 decades before his untimely death.  Currently, the temple is without a Gurukal with the Mei Kavalar managing the darshan requirements of the devotees. It is hoped that the temple administration will take the necessary steps to help the Gurukal come out of the addiction.

Legend has it that when Brahmma lost his powers after he set his eyes on Urvasi, he was directed to undertake penance here at Thiru Neelakudi. It was here that he invoked the blessings of the Lord by installing a Shiva Lingam and performing pooja. In memory of this episode, there is a mukthi mandapam inside the temple with a Lingam.

Markendaya performed pooja here invoking the blessings of the Lord to extend his life time. It was after performing pooja here that Markendaya went to Sri Vanchiyam. In a thanking gesture, it is believed that Markendaya himself organised the Sapsthana procession of the Lord from Thiru Neelakudi in Chitrai. This Utsavam is still celebrated in a grand way during the Chitrai Brahmotsavam when the Lord goes on a Kannadi Pallaku to seven villages starting with Elanthurai, Ayyavadi (Enathi Mangalam), Thiru Nageswaram, Thirubhuvanam, Thiruvidaimaruthur and Maruthuvakudi.

Sacred cow Kamadhenu created a tank and bathed here, and performed pooja to cleanse herself from the curse of Sage Vashista.

The Lord is referred to by different names including Manogyanathar, Neelakandeswarar, Kamadenu Pureeswarar, Vilvaaranyeswarar and Brahmmapureeswarar.

There are two Ambal Sannidhis next to each other – Bhakthaapeesta Prathaayini (Azhagaambigai) and Anoopa Masthani (Thava Kola Ammai- Yogic Posture).

A unique feature at this temple is that the stem from the sthala vriksham Vilva Tree comprises of five petals as against the usual three leaves referred to as ‘Pancha Vilvam’.

When Lord Shiva absorbed the poison in the Devas – Asuras battle for securing the nectar from Thiruparkadal, it was ambal who applied a sacred oil on the Lord’s head to stop the poison at his neck (Neela Kanda) and prevent it from consuming his body. To this day, one finds that when oil abhishekam takes place at this temple, one finds the Lord fully absorbing the oil in his body thus cooling himself from the heat of the poison, a special feature at this temple. Hence the Lord is also referred to as ‘Thaila Abhisheka Priyar’.

Praising the Lord of Thiru Neelakudi, Appar says that if one offers his sincere prayers and invokes the blessings of the Lord, one’s difficulties will vanish like a small floating stone in an ocean.    

Festivals

Brahmotsavam in Chitrai including procession to 7 villages in Kannadi Pallakku

The temple is open from 730am -12noon and 5pm-8pm. Contact Kalimuthu Mei Kavalar @ 96269 97271.

How to reach

By Train, one can get down at Aduthurai Railway Station (between Mayiladuthurai and Kumbakonam) and take an auto ( Rs. 50) to Thiru Neelakudi ( 3 kms from Aduthurai)

One can also reach the temple by taking the Karaikal bound bus from Kumbakonam (10 kms).