Thiruvanaikaval Aadi Amavasai Rishabham

fter a long debate and a signed written letter from the Pandithars, the Rishabham procession takes place on the Aadi Amavasai day from the Aasaariyar Mandapam but the return procession skips the fourth prakara in violation of the historic tradition

It was to be a big celebratory day at the Akiladeswari Jambukeswarar temple in Thiruvanaikaval, one built by Ko Chenganan Chozhan and praised by the Saivite Saint Poets. The Aadi Pooram utsavam for Akilandeswari had started last Wednesday with the flag hoisting that evening followed by a procession around the Ul Thiru Veethi. It was also the day when the legendary Saivite Saint Poet Thirunavukkarasar (Appar) received the Kailaya Kaatchi at Thiruvayaru with Swami providing darshan on the Rishabha Vahana. Historically, Jambukeswarar and Akilandeswari provided darshan on the Rishabha Vahana with a Pancha Moorthy procession around the four streets.

வெள்ளி வெற்பின் மேல் மரகதக் கொடி உடன் விளங்கும்  

தெள்ளு பேர் ஒளிப் பவள வெற்பு என இடப்பாகம்  

கொள்ளும் மா மலையாள் உடன் கூட வீற்று இருந்த  

வள்ளலாரை முன் கண்டனர் வாக்கின் மன்னவனார் - Appar

Will one procession be cut off 

As is the trend in recent times, one is seeing many twists to utsavams in temples. And there was to be one at this temple as well on this Wednesday. Even as the Aadi Pooram utsavam began last Wednesday, there were murmurs about the likelihood of the Aadi Amavasai procession.

The issue turned out to be this. When the flag was hoisted for Akilandeswari for the Aadi Pooram utsavam, could she go out on a street procession during the utsavam to celebrate another utsavam. There were two separate donor devotees for each of these utsavams – on this Wednesday evening, Akilandeswari was to go around the fourth prakara on the Simha Vahana but it has been a tradition for her and Jambukeswarar to go to the ‘Aasaariyaar’ mandapam south west of the temple near Bharathi street and to return to the temple on the Rishabha Vahana as part of the Pancha Moorthy procession.

ஆன செயலால் திருவானைக்கா என்று அதற்குப் பெயராக

ஞானம் உடைய ஒரு சிலந்தி நம்பர் செம் பொன் திருமுடிமேல்

கானல் விரவும் சருகு உதிரா வண்ணம் கலந்த வாய் நூலால்

மேல் நல்திரு மேற்கட்டி என விரிந்து செறியப் புரிந்து உளதால்

Big Day in the year for Aasaariyars

The aasaariyars of Thiruvanaikaval were given this land to work through the year on the wood work in return for which they were to host the Pancha Moorthies on this Aadi Amavasai day as their Ubayam. And that is a tradition that has been followed for over 150 years.

The question was raised that only one procession could take place on this day and a precedent to this had been set once just under ten years ago and also just over 25 years ago when Aadi Amavasai fell on the 8th day of the Aadi Pooram Utsavam, the more powerful donor had his way and the other procession was celebrated in ‘Aasthanam’ without the street procession.

The EO of the temple, Uma, who took over from Suresh earlier this year asked for the views of the Pandithars on this issue if the two processions could take place on this Aadi Amavasai day. She demanded for their views in writing and the Pandithars of Thiruvanaikaval handed back a signed letter confirming that the two processions could indeed take place on the same day with Ambal going out on the procession after the Uchi Kaala Pooja and returning back to the temple on the Rishabham before the Saayi Raksha Pooja.

And thus, Jambukeswarar and Akilandeswari left for the Aasaariyaar Mandapam near the Kallanai Road after the Uchi Kaala Pooja. An Abhisekam followed at this mandapam. With the Simha Vahana procession slated for 7pm from the Akilandeswari Sannidhi, the return Pancha Moorthy procession on the Rishabham was to start at 4pm from this mandapam after the ‘Aasaariyars’ mariyathai but even after 3pm, none of the Kainkaryaparas were seen at this mandapam.

No Kainkaryapara at the Aasaariyar Mandapam to watch over the Pancha Moorthies

Most shockingly, the Pancha Moorthy Idols were left to fend for themselves with not a single Kainkaryapara of the Thiruvanaikaval  temple at this mandapam. There were no Pandithars or Paricharakars or even the HRCE staffers at this mandapam till 3.20pm when the Jewel box arrived at the mandapam following which alankaram specialist Nagarajan Paricharakar too arrived at this location to decorate Swami and Ambal atop the Rishabham.

கடல்வண்ணன் நான்முகன் காண்பரியார்

தடவரை யரக்கனைத் தலைநெரித்தார்

விடமது வுண்டவெம் மயேந்திரரும்

அடல்விடை யாரூராதி யானைக்காவே-Appar

Past 4pm, the alankaram had been done but the full members of the Sripatham team were yet to arrive. It was past 4.45pm when the Pancha Moorthies began their procession back to the temple after mariyathai to the Ubayadarars and to the Adyayana Bhattar and the Othuvar.

Rishabham skips the fourth prakara

The controversies of the day was not yet done with. On the return procession, Jambukeswarar and Akilandeswari were to provide Rishabha Vahana darshan on this Aadi Amavasai day around the fourth prakara but this was compromised with both shortage of Sripatham personnel as well as time for there was a Simha Vahana alankaram and procession to be done in the evening for which the Saayi Raksha pooja had to take place. 

Hari Pandithar, one of the priests well verses in the technical pooja aspects at this temple told this writer that it was the norm for the Rishabham to go around the Ul Thiru Veethi and there was no question of discussing that point. He had assumed that the Rishabham would indeed go through the fourth prakara but that was not to be the case and he found that to be a violation of the tradition for a Rishabha Vahana procession of Swami and Ambal was not complete without them going around the sacred fourth prakara.

Sriram Pandithiar (left) and Hari Pandithar

நன்றும் இழைத்த சிலம்பி வலைப் பரப்பை நாதன் அடி வணங்கச் 

சென்ற யானை அநுசிதம் என்று அதனைச் சிதைக்கச் சிலம்பிதான்

இன்று களிற்றின் கரம் சுலவிற்று என்று மீள இழைத்ததனை

அன்று கழித்த பிற்றைநாள் அடல் வெள்ளானை அழித்ததால்

He did suggest to the Pandithar of the day, Sriram Pandithar, who quit his job at Sundaram Finance to take up this hereditary service, to get the Rishabham around the fourth prakara but the procession returned directly back to the temple through the west entrance.

Sundarar Aadi Swathi Mukthi Thiruvanaikaval

Wednesday evening marked the celebration of the legendary event that took place at Thiru Vanjikalam on Aadi Swathi when Sundarar boarded the White Elephant presented by the Lord for his final journey

It is one of the big days in the year for one of the four Saivite Sain Poets (Naalvar). Aadi Swathi marks the day when Sundara Moorthy Nayanar was taken by the Lord on a white elephant from Thiru Vanjikalam, where he attained Mukthi.

In his very first verse, legendary Saint Poet Sundara Moorthy Nayanar, born in Thiru Navalur,  refers to Kripapureeswarar of Thiruvennainallur as ‘ARULAALAA’ and gives one an indication as to how God is compassionate with his devotees. When Sundarar asks Kripapureeswarar inside the Thiruvennainallur temple as to how he can praise him and if he was fit at all, the Lord asks him to praise with the very same word (mad) that he had referred to the old man at the wedding mandapa. A delighted Sundarar reaffirms that the Lord of Thiruvennainallur is indeed a MAD one for how else would he shower his blessings on this devotee who had thrown abuses at him, one who had torn the Olai document into pieces and show his compassion by preventing this devotee from being bonded into a married life.  

In his first verse, Sundarar begins with a reference to the Lord as Mad in providing arulaalaa to his devotees.

பித்தா பிறைசூடி பெருமானே  அருளாளா

எத்தால் மற வாதே நினைக்கின்றேன் மனத்துன்னை

வைத்தாய்  பெண்ணைத் தென்பால்

வெண்ணை நல்லூர் அருட்டுறையுள்

அத்தா உனக் காளாய் இனி

அல்லேன் எனல் ஆமே- Sundarar's first verse

It is past 7pm and alankaram specialist Nagarajan Paricharakar has just got down to decorating Sundarar and Cheramaan Perumal, the Chera King with whom Sundarar forged a great friendship, standing next to him on a simple pallakku. There are a few devotees who have arrived specifically for this once in a year street procession of Sundarar. Clock has almost ticked to 7.30pm when devotees carry Sundara Moorthy Nayanar to the Dwajasthambam where Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan, the sole Othuvar of the last three decades at this temple recites the sacred verses of Sundarar, following which Paricharakar Nagarajan presented the Deeparathanai to mark the start of the procession. Since the very early days, Sundarar has been Othuvar Srinivasan’s favourite and he has recited the 1000+ verses of Sundarar several hundreds of times in this phase. Hence this evening is a special one for him as he is reminded of the good old days in his youth when he used to sing the verses of Sundarar all the time at this temple.

                   Cheramaan Perumal, Chera King

As the procession reaches the western entrance, the Udal players comprising of young teenaged boys and a couple of girls begin the play the drums and the dumbbell with great devotion but it does not work for Othuvar Srinivasan as he moves far ahead of the procession singing the sacred verses of Sundarar, all alone.

As has been the trend on the North Street, most of the residents comprising of Pandithars of this temple, stay put inside the temple as Sundarar moves ahead quickly with no Thattu on offer in any of the homes there. Past the Akilandeswari Sannidhi, the Vedic students of the Sankara Mutt make their way to have darshan of Sundara Moorthy Nayanar. Veena Vidwan Gopalakrishnan and his wife, who are regulars at the Jambukeswarar temple, too have darshan of Sundarar on this North Street.

மமழுவாள் வலன் ஏந்தீ மறையோதி மங்கை பங்கா

தொழுவாரவர் துயராயின தீர்த்தல்லுன தொழிலே

செழுவார் பெண்ணைத் தென்பால்

வெண்ணை நல்லூர் அருட்டுறையுள் 

அழகா உனக்  காளாய்  இனி அல்லேன் எனலாமே

The devotee crowd gathers steam at the east end of the North street and the East Street where many of the residents come out of their homes to have darshan of Sundarar.

Sundarar praises the Lord of Thiru Aanaikka as one who graciously accepts us as His servants and rules over us day after day. In his verse, he says that when a Chola king bathed in the cool waters of the Cauvery  and accidentally dropped his pearl necklace, the Lord accepted the offering by causing it to enter the sacred bathing vessel while the king stood in the water refusing to come ashore out of distress over the loss!!!

தாரம்‌ ஆகிய பொன்னித்

 ‌தண்துறை ஆடி விழுத்தும்

நீரில்‌ நின்று, அடி போற்றி,

 நின்மலா, கொள்‌! என ஆங்கே

ஆரம்‌ கொண்ட எம்‌ ஆனைக்கா

 உடை ஆதியை நாளும்‌ 

ஈரம்‌ உள்ளவர்‌ நாளும்‌

 எம்மையும்‌ ஆள்‌ உடையாரே

The Vedic students comprising of a few Vadakalai Iyengars as well at the east end of the South street too come out for a darshan of Sundarar and Cheramaan Raja. There are more devotees on this street presenting Thattu. 

Highly Devoted Shiva Adiyars

For the Shiva Adiyars this is a very sacred evening. They have great regard for the Nalavars and this evening when Sundarar was taken atop the white elephant rekindles great memories for them of this legendary event that took place in Thiru Vanjikalam, also the birth place of Chera King and Vaishnavite Saint Poet Kulasekara Azhvaar. They follow Sundarar on the procession reciting the sacred verses of this great Saint Poet. 

As is usually the case on the street processions at this temple, there are a good number of devotees waiting at the South Gopuram of the temple for a darshan. A few more Shiva Adiyars join the recital of the sacred verses. Through the entire procession, they are highly devotional with no chit chats amongst them and their sole focus being to sing the verses of their favourite Sundarar on this special evening for him. These Shiva Adiyars are a special breed in terms of their devotion as they turn up on such evenings from everywhere to present these verses. Nothing around them distracts them as they present one verse after another of the 1000 of Sundarar. 

It is almost close to 8.30pm when Sundarar makes his way back to the golden flag post where Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan presents the final verses of this great Saint Poet sung at Thiru Vanjikalam before he was given a memorable send off with Lord Shiva himself arriving to take him along with him on a white elephant. Othuvar Srinivasan is on a high after reciting Sundarar’s verses for over an hour and he tells this writer as to how Sundarar praises the Lord of Thiru Vanjikalam and asks him for Mukthi. 

வீடின்‌ பயன்‌ என்‌? பிறப்பின்‌ பயன்‌ என்‌? 

 விடை ஏறுவது என்‌, மதயானை நிற்க? 

கூடும்‌ மலைமங்கை ஒருத்தி உ.டன்‌ 

சடைமேல்‌ கங்கையாளை நீ சூடிற்று என்னே? 

பாடும்‌ புலவர்க்கு அருளும்‌ பொருள்‌ என்‌?

நிதியம் பல செய்த கலச்‌ செலவில்‌ 

ஆடும்‌ கடல்‌ அம் கரைமேல்‌ மகோதை

அணி ஆர்‌ பொழில்‌ அஞ்சைக்களத்து அப்பனே! - Sundarar on Thiru Vanjikalam

In his praise of Thiru Vanjikalam, Sundarar describes the temple at Thiruvanjikalam as surrounded by beautiful groves on the shores of the ocean that bears ships laden with treasures like gold and gems.

He asks the Lord as to what the purpose is of him having both of these opposing states—liberation and birth—rather than establishing just one of them? He further asks him as to why he rides a bull when he has an elephant and as to why he has Ganga in his matted locks alongside the daughter of the Mountain, who is inseparably united with his sacred form?

                             Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan

When he asks the Lord as to what is the reward he bestows upon poets who sing of him much in a way Thiru Mangai Azhvaar asked of Parimala Ranganatha of Thiru Indhalur, he seems to have pleased the Lord greatly.

Sundarar in his praise of the Lord of Thiru Vanjikkalam says that the institution of birth is for the purpose of severing the bonds that hinder the enjoyment of the bliss. The Lord abides with the Mountain Maiden to uphold righteousness and to facilitate worldly enjoyments for living beings; He bears the Ganga to ensure that such enjoyment is sustained without being interrupted or destroyed by other forces. Having thus attained all these states —save for 'Veedu' (Liberation), Sundarar says that he now beseeches the Lord to graciously grant him that ultimate fruit, 'Veedu'. And answering the prayers of these last few verses of Sundarar at Thiru Vanjikalam, the Lord placed the White Elephant in front of him for Sundarar to board and make that final trip of this life.

Even as Paricharaka Nagarajan takes Sundarar and Cheramaan Perumal to their abode, Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan sits in a corner of the prakara reminiscing the good old days when he sit in different corners of the temple and walk around the temple reciting the sacred verses of Sundarar. This Aadi Swathi evening evoked great memories of Sundarar for this intelligent Othuvar with a great devotional voice.

Achalpuram Vaikasi Brahmotsavam Revival after 60 years

Following the recent consecration, Brahmotsavam has been revived this month at the Shiva Loga Thyagaraja temple much to devotees' delight

81 year old Mythili is devotionally excited on Sunday evening for the revival of the Brahmotsavam this week at the Shiva Loga Thyagaraja Swamy temple in Achalpuram, one where Thiru Gnana Sambandar married and attained Mukthi, has evoked happy memories from her childhood years in the 1950s and 60s.

Her family has just come together in good numbers for ten days at the centuries old house on North Sannidhi street where they have been celebrating the Rama Navami utsavam. It had been a hut house all through her childhood when she went to school here at Achalpuram. A couple of decades ago, the family decided to build walls inside the house but she was keen for the traditional look to be maintained and thus the beautiful long Thinnai in front of the house was kept as is. Most of the traditional old styled houses are gone in the street with the original inhabitants having sold off their homes but there are a couple of them on the street that still have an old fashioned look like this North facing house on that street.

A traditional experience from the past

Sitting on this Thinnai, she recounted her childhood memories to this writer a couple of hours before Thyagesa Swami and Thiru Venneerutru Umaiammai Ambal were to come out on a street procession on the Bootha Vahana. There were a number of Gurukals in those years in the 1950s "I was a young school girl and they would lift me and make me sit in the Chariot as it went around the streets of Achalpuram during the Brahmotsavam. It was a thrilling and unforgettable experience to be amidst the devotees during the Brahmotsavam."

She experienced the Brahmotsavam through the 1950s with the North Street filled with traditional residents. And even as some tears roll down her eyes, she recalls that year in the 1960s when she was blessed to witness the final year of the Brahmotsavam before it came to a halt. She had moved out of Achalpuram in 1962 after her marriage but came back a couple of years later to experience a magical ten days. “I was pregnant with our first child and made my way back to Achalpuram from Chennai. I still remember Thyagesa Swami coming out of the temple providing darshan in a different vahana each day during the Brahmotsavam. Unfortunately, 1964 was the last year the Brahmotsavam took place. The financial situation had deteriorated at the temple and the historic utsavams came to a halt one by one. And finally the Brahmotsavam too was stopped for they could not afford to conduct the utsavam anymore much to my disappointment”, she tells this writer.

And as decades passed by, the original inhabitants left this historic temple town seeking greener pastures in cities. Given the slowdown in temples, the next gen priests too moved away from service at this temple. The income to the temple dwindled. All these meant, the Brahmotsavam did not take place for six decades.

Consecration leads to Brahmotsavam revival

With the return of the devotional wave that is now sweeping temples in TN, a grand consecration took place last year, one that also spurred the revival of the Brahmotsavam. As part of the renovation works, all the vahanas were spruced up. Earlier this year, a call was taken to revive the Brahmotsavam in Vaikasi with one community taking up each day’s utsavam. 

Thiru Gnana Sambandhar sang the last of his Thevaram verses on the Lord of this temple.  He made 7 long trips from Sirkazhi and back. It was on the 7th trip that he reached Achalpuram. In his verses, he refers to himself as being from Sirkazhi and assures the devotees that their sincere prayers at Nallur Perumanam (the ancient name of this place) will see them being liberated from their sins. In another verse, he specifically refers to the names of both the Lord and Ambal.

கல் ஊர்ப் பெரு மணம் 

 வேண்டா கழுமலம்

பல் ஊர்ப் பெரு மணம் 

 பாட்டு மெய் ஆய்த்தில?

சொல் ஊர்ப் பெரு மணம் 

 சூடலரே! தொண்டர்

நல்லூர்ப்பெருமணம் 

 மேய நம்பானே! - Thiru Gnana Sambandar

Happy Octogenarian returns for the Revival

Hearing news of the revival, Octogenarian Mythili has made it to Achalpuram this week specifically to enjoy the experience of the Brahmotsavam, one that has kindled memories from her childhood. She misses the morning procession that used to be an integral part of this utsavam during her schooling years in the 1950s but is happy that Swami and Ambal are providing darshan every evening in a Vahana.

Teenager manages the Yaaga Salai

Back at the temple, a few young patshala students have made it to Achalpuram this week to decorate the Pancha Moorthies atop different vahanas and they have been at work through the evening to get the deities ready for the street procession. There is a shortage of kainkaryaparas at the temple and when big utsavams such as this are revived, those from outside have to be roped in for support.

18 year old Ashwin is in his final year of Saiva Agama and Vedic studies and has been here at Achalpuram to put that initiation into practical use taking care of the Yaaga Salai pooja during the utsavam. His appa is a priest at Thiru Kadaiyur and he hopes that one he would be able to continue the archaka service. It is 6pm and he heads to the Yaaga Salai for a couple of hours of pooja in the midst of smoke.

The sripatham personnel numbering 70 have to come from Sirkazhi, about 15kms from here. Balaji Gurukal is now into his 40s and he is the go-to-man for the Atheenam. Through the evening, he gets non stop calls asking for updates at the temple ahead of the street procession and he patiently answers the superintendent each time providing him feedback on the arrival of the flower garlands to the opening of the Sannidhi.

It is a big Sunday evening at Achalpuram for it’s the first weekend in six decades when a Brahmotsavam procession is to take place. Past 6pm, devotees began to trickle in even as the young patshala students were giving the final touches to the alankaram. Huge vessels arrive with different varieties of food that is to be distributed to devotees after the start of the procession. 

Anchoring the Overall Management

Mahesh has seen the temple from close quarters through the three decades of his life. He had managed all the activities at the temple in earlier years and then moved to Chennai where he runs a production firm handling advertising, outdoor hoardings and the like. Balaji Gurukal has roped him for support during these ten days and he is the one who is shouldering responsibility for the overall management of the utsavam. The young patshala students have been at alankaram work for several hours and he calls them in one by one for dinner at the Madapalli ahead of the procession. 

He is delighted that the Brahmotsavam has been revived this year soon after the consecration and believes that this will lead to a turnaround in the fortunes of the temple. He is confident that the scale of the Brahmotsavam can become bigger and is open to roping in Ubayadarars for different activities if the Atheenam gives him a free hand and that responsibility. He has not had a minute’s rest through this Sunday evening and has been in the thick of action co-ordinating different activities even as Balaji Gurukal ensures that the alankaram is completed in time.

The Ubayadarar on this evening is the Vanniyar community and past 7pm they have arrived in good numbers. It is a big festive occasion at this historic temple where the legendary Saivite Saint Poet married and soon after attained Mukthi by merging with the Lord here. Several hundreds of devotees have gathered at the temple and are ready for the Deeparathanai. 

The Nadaswaram artistes have been playing devotional music with devotees sitting around them. The now popular Udal players comprising of highly devoted youngsters enter the temple through the Eastern Raja Gopuram and their entry signifies that the start is around the corner. The rockets go up in the sky and sharp at 8pm, the Gurukal presents the Deeparathanai and the Ubacharam for Thyagaraja Swami.

The Pancha Moorthies begin the procession around the prakara making their way to the Yaaga Salai on the North East corner where there is a pooja and Deeparathanai. Sripatham carry the deities on their shoulders through the Raja Gopuram and mount them on to the wheeled vehicles. Prasadam is distributed in large numbers to the devotees and there are happy faces all around.

It is 9pm and rockets and fire crackers continue to go up. The temple complex as well as the streets of Achalpuram wear a colourful look with special lights donning this historic temple town on this Brahmotsavam evening. Mythili is ready at the North Car street with her brother to present coconut, fruits and flowers to Shiva Loga Thyagaraja Swamy and Thiru Venneerutru Umaiammai Ambal. It is a big moment in her life for when the Brahmotsavam stopped six decades ago, she did not know if and when it would be revived for things were bleak at the temple that decade. 

Into her 80s, she is happy that the Vaikasi Brahmotsavam has been revived in her time and that she has been able to witness the vahana processions once again, something that was so integral to her life during her childhood. The beating of the drums and the music resonating from the Nadaswaram would stir up her devotional emotions. After darshan of the divine couple atop the Bootha Vahanas on this late Sunday evening, she heads back home thrilled at this experience of enjoying the Brahmotsavam once again and chatting about the good old childhood days. 

This has been a start and going by the response from the devotees on this Sunday evening, this annual Brahmotsavam can only become bigger.

https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/03/achalpuram-shiva-loga-thyagaraja-temple.html

Thiru Gnana Sambandar Mukthi Utsavam

https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/06/thiru-gnana-sambandar-mukthi-utsavam.html

Aadhi Kumbeswarar Maasi Magam Theerthavari Rishabham

After a grand alankaram of Kumbeswarer and Mangalambika atop the Rishabham on Monday morning, it is a chaotic accident-prone procession from the temple to the Maha Magam Kulam

It is just past 7.30am on Monday (March 2) morning and there is a huge crowd at the Aadhi Kumbeswarar temple, in Kumbakonam. It is Maasi Magam and devotees are thronging the temple to have an early morning darshan. The annadhanam side is full with food being handed out continuously through the morning.

While there is a long queue at the Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika Sannidhis, a few of the priests are giving the final touches to the Pancha Moorthy idols ahead of the long procession to the Maha Magam Kulam. It is a grand alankaram of Swami and Ambal atop the Rishabham and after taking a close look and being satisfied with the alankaram, the priest pastes the Sandal on Swami’s forehead. 

It is the Theerthavari day of the annual Maasi Brahmotsavam and the dip in the Maha Magam Kulam has to take place within 30 minutes from noon for the sacred lagnam ends at 12.30pm.

It is well past 10.30am when Aadhi Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika, both on Velli Rishabham make their way out of the temple after the Deepaarathanai and the elephant fanning the Lord. There are devotees who have been at this Maasi Magam procession for several decades and they have seen it all. They debate amongst themselves if the Pancha Moorthy will take a short cut like has happened a few years in the past when the start of the procession has been delayed or if indeed, they will first go on a pradakshinam around the four sacred streets of the temple before taking the trip to the Maha Magam tank.

Wrong Schedule on the banner

At the Eastern entrance, it takes 15 minutes for the Sripatham personnel to tie up the beautiful colourful canopy over Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika even as devotees have darshan of the Rishabham and pick up the sacred white ash from the priests. The huge banner next to the Chariot has got the specifics of this Theerthavari day wrong. The programme schedule states that Kumbeswarar would provide Rishabham darshan on this return procession from Maha Magam Kulam while the reality is that the Rishabham procession is from the temple to the Kulam prior to the Theerthavari event.

HRCE Fails - A Chaotic Procession full of accidents

On to the Kumbeswarar South Street, the traffic is heavy. There are no additional police personnel to stop or redirect the vehicles and the Sripatham have a tough time manoeuvring Swami and Ambal around the vehicles. The HR & CE personnel, who these days are an integral part of temple street processions, are not there in any good numbers. As the procession moves into the West street, the first of the many incidents take place showcasing the unfortunate scenario in small town temples.

Canopy breaks with the overhead wire contact

Lack of attention leads to an overhead wire breaking the wood piece of the canopy as it comes tumbling down behind Mangalambika. Time is short and Ambal cannot wait for too long for the other deities have moved forward.  It is the North street when the Sripatham retie the canopy atop Ambal, though it is not to fullest satisfaction of the three priests who are accompanying Mangalambika on the procession. 

As Ambal moved on to the middle of the North Street, a corporation vehicle almost bangs against the bamboo piece of Ambal, the second accident in a matter of minuter. It takes another few minutes for the vehicle to dismantle itself. No one seems to be in control to take charge of the procession. 

Flowers thrown on the deities

The North Street is where the flower vendors conduct their early morning business. Showing their devotion they throw good quantities of flowers on the Swami and Ambal that falls on the head of the priests sitting there. Presenting a flower garland to Swami and Ambal is a nice gesture but devotees throwing flowers from the street on to the deities does not seem right. The priests bear patiently the unknotted ‘Uthiri’ flowers falling on their body and they knock it off their head.

Passes Sarangapani on the float

It is a very hot morning in Kumbakonam and the time is well past 11am. The Sripatham have to now gather pace to reach the Maha Magam Kulam by noon. The corporation vehicle finally arrives to pour water on to the road to cool the feet of the Sripatham personnel. At the Potramarai Kulam, Sarangapani Perumal is moving through the South side of the tank even as Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika pass by on the Rishabham. It is a quick ‘glance’ meeting of Perumal and Shiva. 

A two wheeler crashes next to Mangalambika

As has been the case this morning, with one accident after another unfolding, a speeding two wheeler with three people travelling on it skids in the water near the Police Station right next to Mangalambika. There are loud wailing noises from the injured but the procession has to move on. Traffic is chaotic and the police aren’t helping out restricting the vehicles during this procession to the Maha Magam Kulam. The Sripatham continue to do a good job. There are Thattu presentations as well on the way from the shop owners on the busy Nageswaran North Street.

It is almost close to noon, when Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika reach near the kulam. They are asked to perform a pradakshinam around the Abi Mukeswarar temple and the Maha Magam tank. The owners of the hospitals on the North Street come out to present Thattu and Ambal’s priest  presents a shawl and a flower garland to one of them. 

Heading to the east street, the overhead wires present more trouble for Kumbeswarar and Mangalambika further delaying the procession. It is past noon when the Theerthavari idol makes its way through the heavily guarded gates. There is a huge crowd inside the Maha Magam tank on all the four sides that have taken prime positions from early morning awaiting this big Theerthavari moment. But with Lords from 12 temples making their way into the tank, devotees who are coming in after noon are now restricted from the entering the temple tank. 

The nadaswaram artistes themselves find it difficult to enter but manages to make his way inside the tank for the devotional presentation during the Theerthavari. The priest from the Kumbeswarar temple begins recital of the Mantras leading to the Theerthavari. It is almost close to 12.30pm when the Kumbeswarar Theerthavari idol dips into the sacred tank with all the devotees around too taking a dip. The priest continuously shouts out ‘Om Nama Shiviya’ with devotees following him in this chant in chorus. For once, there are more folded hands than phone cameras with the devotion reaching a peak when Kumbeswarar dipped into the Maha Magam tank that was brimming with water.

There is happiness on the faces of the devotees who have had a close darshan of the Theerthavari of Aadhi Kumbeswarar. And they leave the Maha Magam tank for another year discussing their experience fresh from the sacred bath they have just had.

Nellaiappar Aippasi Kalyana Utsavam 2025

Ganthimathi Ambal leaves the temple in anger on Thursday night only for Nellaiappar to pursue and provide her darshan the next morning on the Rishabham promising to marry her 

It’s the tenth day of the kalyana utsavam in Aippasi at the nellaiappar temple in Tirunelveli. Gandhimathi Ambal has been quite angry through the week at the non-acceptance by Swami of her love despite presenting herself in different beautiful alankarams. Having decided to make her way to the west of Tirunelveli, she asks her attendants to get her ready for the trip. 

It is 10pm on Thursday (Nov 13) and the priest at the Ambal Sannidhi gets down to providing her with a sacred bath. There is a sizeable devotee crowd at the alankaram mandapam. The priest presents her with coconut water, sandalwood paste and panchamritham even as the Shiva Adiyars recite the Thevaram verses in chorus.

Next Gen priest 

Raghavan Gurukal, son of Rajesh Gurukal, is completing his Vedic and Agamic education at the Patshala in Pillayarpatti. He is here for the utsavam and is the one who decorates Ambal after the abhisekam. Soon after the donor devotee of the abhisekam distributes prasadam to the 50 plus devotees who have stayed till 11pm.

Soon after Ambal’s abhiskam earlier in the night, back at the Swami Sannidhi unknown to her, there was an abhisekam for Nellaiappar following which he was mounted on to the Rishabham for a surprise trip the next morning. 

After draping her in a white saree, Ambal is mounted on to the golden palanquin. The police personnel arrive at the temple as do the sripatham personnel in good number but there is still another couple of hours to go as the priests get down to an extensive alankaram for the procession.

    Devotee crowd at Mahalingam Temple- Friday 1pm

Late Night Procession

It is past 1.30am when the Nadaswaram artistes begin their presentation signalling that Ganthimathi Ambal is ready to leave the temple. A speciality of this alankaram is that Ambal’s face has been anointed with a Vibhoothi paste and the few devotees who have stayed back late into the night are delighted to have this peaceful darshan of Ambal in this beautiful alankaram.

Kannan Sastrigal, the 65 year old Adyayana Bhattar, has been serving at the temple right from his childhood and he too is present for the start of the procession. He is vocal about how the temple was during his childhood and how there have been unrecognisable changes over the decades including the procession taking place on wheeled tyres. He continues to organise over 30 Kattalais in the year for various utsavams through devotees and accompanies Ambal in this late night procession.

Rajesh Gurukal is one of the two HRCE appointed priests at the temple. He bemoans the fact that the service personnel have drastically reduced from over 200 five decades ago to under 50 now.

There is drizzle in the air but that does not deter the service personnel as Ganthimathi Ambal makes her way into the East Street, one that was inhabited not so long ago by traditionalists but is now full of shops with Kannan Sastrigal’s house opposite the Ambal Sannidhi one of the few traditional homes on the street.

There are a few local temples on the way and those open to welcome Ambal. A Deeparathanai Maha Devi Road to the procession and a few of them turn up in front of their homes with flowers.  

In the century gone by when the streets around temples were occupied by service personnel, late evening processions seemed relevant as the residents participated in large numbers. But when most of the original inhabitants have left their hereditary towns selling away their lands, street processions after midnight do not make devotional sense. In Aani this year, Nellaippar made a night long 15 kms trip sans devotees for Siddhar Katchi. This procession was to the Katchi Mandapam 3kms west of the Nellaiappar temple. While there were a few devotees at street corners and a few of the local temples opened up, by and large this was a procession that did not have devotees to see the anger of Ambal.

It is 3am when Ambal entered the Kamakhi Moola Mahalingam temple. The sripatham personnel and the few devotees leave the temple for a well earned rest.

Rishabham 

Back at the Nellaippar temple, Manikandan Gurukal, the other HRCE appointed priest arrives at 8am. He directs his teammates to decorate Nellaiappar ahead of the procession. There are huge flower garlands and the priests spend the best part of an hour getting the alankaram right. It is past 10am when Swami is finally ready for the procession. Good number of devotees have gathered in front of the Raja Gopuram and as is the trend these days the phones come up for the first photos and videos of Nellaiappar atop the Rishabham.

Like the previous night, there is a slight drizzle. The Chairman Board of Trustees carries an umbrella and is part of the entire procession wearing his chappals!!! The long flower garlands hanging in front of the Chapparam block an easy view of the Rishabham. 

In front of the Ambal Sannidhi, Nellaiappar is joined by Perumal who goes around him thrice. On the Cheran Maha Devi, Swami is joined by the Saivite Saint Poet Thiru Gnana Sambandar. And the Udal members add flavour to the procession with their loud and devotional presentation. 

                           Thiru Gnana Sambandar

Manikandan Gurukal is a most recognisable face and devotees come up to him to express their greetings. He is patient all through the trip and hands out flower garlands to devotees along the way. It is 11. 30am when Nellaiappar positions him under the four pillared mandapam. Manikandan Gurukal directs the Maniyakaarar to wait till noon (Rahu Kaalam) before getting Ambal out of the Mahalingam temple. 

There is a sizeable crowd at the four pillared mandapam. On hearing that Swami will first provide Kaatchi there, devotees who have had darshan through the morning of Ganthimathi Ambal make their way to the four pillared mandapam and each of them position themselves for what they believe will be the best view of the Kaatchi. 

As the clock ticks past noon, Ganthimathi Ambal is informed of the surprise trip of Swami and Perumal and devotees spot an instant smile in her face. Moorthy Gurukal has been at the temple for several decades and is a popular priest. He sports a big smile as he makes his way up the palanquin to stand next to Ambal for this procession from the Kaatchi. 

To the nadaswaram and udal presentations, she makes her way to the four pillared mandapam on the Cheran Maha Devi road and goes around Swami thrice before positioning herself opposite him. Unlike the procession the previous night, several hundreds of devotees have gathered in for the Kaatchi event. 

Manikandan Gurukal representing Nellaiappar and Moorthy Gurukal on behalf of Ganthimathi Ambal present the respective garlands that are exchanged. Senthil Othuvar has joined the procession and presents the sacred Thevaram verses. It is 12.30pm when there is a loud devotional cheer among the devotees as Manikandan Gurukal and Moorthy Gurukal present the Deeparathanai much to the delight of those present.

The place is soggy with devotees finding it difficult to make their way back after the darshan. The road too is full of pits and hard stones indicating the sad state of management of such a historical utsavam.

It is past 1pm when Nellaiappar makes his way into the Mahaligam temple to provide Kaatchi to Ambal. There are hundreds of devotees who have darshan of the big Deeparathanai and by now Ganthimathi Ambal has cooled down with Swami promising to marry her the next morning. After receiving the sacred white ash, the devotees head back home discussing their experience of the morning with their family members and friends.

Thiruvanaikaval Akilandeswari Navarathri Saraswathi Alankaram

Parichakar Nagarajan’s alankaram, Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan rendering the sacred verses on Thiru Aanaikka and Elephant Akila’s dance at the sight of Ambal make it a great evening for the devotees on this 8th day of the Navarathri Utsavam at Thiruvanaikaval

It is a special evening at the Jambukeswarar Akilandeswari temple in Thiruvanaikaval on Monday (Sept 29) for the 8th day of the Navarathri Utsavam in Puratasi is one when Akilandeswari is seen in the most beautiful of alankarams.

Passionate about decorating Ambal

Paricharakar Nagarajan has been decorating Akilandeswari for 25 years now and he has been all excited the whole of last week at the opportunity to be blessed with draping the Ambal in a different alankaram each day. It reached a peak this evening as he knew there would be a sizeable devotee crowd to have darshan of Ambal for it was the evening of the Saraswathi Alankaram. 

Early into the evening, Nagarajan began his work of meticulously placing each ornament at the right place and even as the devotees began streaming in via the North Gopuram just past 6pm, he had one final look at Ambal after completing a two hour alankaram. It is 6.30pm and as Akilandeswari makes her way from the alankara mandapam, devotees are thrilled at seeing her in a beautiful white and pink saree holding her favourite veena.

She made her way first around the inner prakara and then around the outer prakara before moving on to in front of the Golu Mandapam. Devotees lined up both sides to take a close look at each of the ornaments of Ambal and the beautiful alankaram.

Paricharakar Nagarajan is congratulated by a few for the attention to detail and for the happiness he brought on the faces of the devotees with his decoration. With a gleaming face, he told this writer even as Akilandeswari made her way to the mirror that he finds great peace in this kainkaryam of decorating Ambal “Devotees look forward to each alankaram and this one on the 8th evening is particularly special for Akilandeswari provides darshan as Saraswathi”.

Othuvar's message to devotees

Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan ( has been the sole othuvar at this temple for 25 years. He is as devotional as it gets when he begins presentation of the Thevaram verses.

வானைக்காவில் வெண்மதி மல்குபுல்கு வார்சடைத்

தேனைக்காவில் இன்மொழித் தேவிபாக மாயினான்

ஆனைக்காவில் அண்ணலை அபயமாக வாழ்பவர்

ஏனைக்காவல் வேண்டுவார்க் கேதும்ஏதம் இல்லையே

Presenting the sacred verses of Thiru Gnana Sambandar on Akilandeswari (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/06/thiru-gnana-sambandar-mukthi-utsavam.html), Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan told this writer on Monday evening that the Ambal is as beautiful as the clear sky and her words for the devotees are sweeter than even nectar and honey and blesses the devotees who come to offer their sincere prayers.

He points to another great verse of praise of Thiru Gnana Sambandar and says that the Ambal who came here from Kailasam where he was with Lord Shiva is beautiful and lures the devotees to her side.

Appar (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/12/thiru-vathigai-veerateswarar.html) in his praise of Thiruvanaikaval says those who do not come here to invoke the blessings have lost a great opportunity to secure Mukthi. “When we have the Lord of Thiruvanaikaval in our hearts, we become cool and attain a peace of mind. He is sweet as honey. If we do not reach out to him in this life, then what use it is to be born in this world and our body is equal to meat. This life is meant to sing praise of him. If we do so, he will go all out to protect us” Othuvar Ramani told this writer presenting this great verse.

விண்ணின் மாமதி சூடி

விலையிலி கலன்அணி விமலன்

பண்ணின் நேர்மொழி மங்கை

பங்கினன் பசுவுகந் தேறி

அண்ண லாகிய ஆனைக்

காவுடை ஆதியை நாளும்

எண்ணு மாறுவல் லார்கள்

எம்மையும் ஆளுடை யாரே

Appar in his praise refers to Akilandeswari as Vadiveyum Mangai, the one who is most beautiful. Befitting that praise, Parichakarar Nagarajan presented Ambal in a most alankaram that was pleasing to the eye and the devotees were fully engrossed through the three rounds in front of the Golu Mandapam.

Even Akila the elephant was so excited at the Saraswathi Alankaram that for the first time in 8 days of this utsavam, she danced in front of Ambal much to the delight of the devotees. It was quite an unexpected show of happiness from the elephant but the alankaram was so beautiful that she could not control her emotions and exhibited her delight.

While Thiru Gnana Sambandar praised Akilandeswari’s beauty as being sweeter than honey, Sundara Moorthy Nayanar(https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2020/01/thiru-vennai-nallur-kripapureeswarar.html) compared Ambal’s beauty to the most beautiful music “Like how it is difficult to get one’s ears away from sweet music, one cannot take the eyes away from the Ambal of Thiru Aanaikka for she is so beautiful.”

வலங்கொள் வாரவர் தங்கள்

வல்வினை தீர்க்கும் மருந்து

கலங்கக் காலனைக் காலாற்

காமனைக் கண்சிவப் பானை

அலங்கல் நீர்பொரும் ஆனைக்

காவுடை ஆதியை நாளும்

இலங்கு சேவடி சேர்வார்

எம்மையும் ஆளுடை யாரே

Sundarar says a devotee’s presence at Thiruaanaikka will serve as a medicine to all issues in life.

Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan’s devotion peaks during these utsavams and as his eye sets on Akilanda Nayaki at the Golu Mandapam, he rolls out verses in praise of her as described by three of the Saivite Saint Poets.

Well past 7.30pm, devotees continue to stroll in for a darshan of Akilandeswari presenting herself as Saraswathi on this 8th day of the Navarthri Utsavam. 

Parichakar Nagarajan’s alankaram, Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan rendering the sacred verses on Thiru Aanaikka, Elephant Akila’s dance at the sight of Ambal make it a great evening for the devotees and they head back home after the Deeparathanai chatting with their friends and relatives looking back at the hour gone by at the Akilandeswari Sannidhi.

A story on Othuvar Ramani Srinivasan: https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/11/thiruvanaikaval-othuvar-srinivasan.html

Nellaiappar Avani Moolam Karuvur Siddhar Darshan

15kms night procession sans devotees

The legendary episode of Nellaiappar providing darshan to an angry Karuvur Siddhar was played out on the occasion of Avani Moolam at Manur on Tuesday morning

It is just past 9pm on Monday (Sept 1) evening. Moorthy Gurukal, the senior priest at the Nellaiappar Gandhimathi temple in Tirunelveli is finishing the final pooja of the day at the Swami Sannidhi. The Shiva Adiyars and the local devotees have gathered in good numbers for the inner prakara procession ahead of the Deeparaathanai. On a normal Monday evening, it would have been curtains for the day but this was a once in a year occasion with the utsava deities of Swami and Ambal set for the longest street procession of the year. 

It is 10pm when Moorthy Gurukal leaves the temple for the night, following which a few electricians get going on the lighting for the utsava deities. Shortly after 11pm, the Sripatham personnel turn up at the temple to mount the utsava deities on the chapparam. 

The Midnight Procession sans devotees

As the clock ticks to midnight, Chandrasekarar and Bhavani Ambal provide darshan at the Eastern Raja Gopuram. The procession is led by parivara moorthies comprising of Kunguli Nayanar, Chandeswarar, Pandya King, Thamaraibarani Ambal and Sage Agasthya.

At the junction of the West and North car street, the procession stops for a while as the service personnel have tea and snacks before resuming the procession that makes its way on to the Netaji Street. Surprisingly there is not a single devotee to welcome the deities even in front of their homes and the lone companion through the procession are the street dogs that walked alongside Swami and Ambal for a few minutes before returning to their homes at each of the street corners.

It is 1am when the deities reached the check post at Raamaiyanpatti and on to the Tirunelveli- Sankaran Koil highway. It is a dark and lonely trip on this highway with a vehicle speeding past once in a while every half hour or so. 

The Matador pulls the deities

Near the corporation dump yard on the western outskirts of Tirunelveli, the sripatham personnel tie the chapparam on to the Matador and for the next ten kms Nellaiappar and Gandhimathi (Chandrasekarar and Bhavani Ambal) are pulled along by the motorised vehicle without the physical push of the Sripatham, who too jump on to the matador for some rest. 

It is past 1.30am when the procession moves past the Veterinary college  and Research Institute in Tirunelveli. It is almost 3am when the first devotee of the procession welcomes the deities in front of the Pillayar temple in Rastha for the first coconut break.  Shortly after, they stop at a roadside tea stall for tea and biscuits. 

Three Generations of Nellaiappar Kainkaryam

44 year old Balasubramanian is the third generation in his family to don the role of the Sripatham head at the Nellaiappar temple. Past 3am he tells this writer as to how in really financially challenging times five decades ago, his thatha anchored this procession. “There was very little money on offer at that time and the roads were in pretty bad shape but my thatha was committed to serving Nellaiappar and Gandhimathi and spent his entire lifetime in service to them” even as he sips a tea at the Iyengar Bakery in Rastha. 

It is now over 25 years since Balasubramanian began performing the daily service at the temple. He has been the man behind organising the Therottam, the alankaram of the chariot and the Pandal in addition to playing the role of the Sripatham head.

He says it is better time now financially for this service than it was during his Thatha’s years of service. But more than the money, he feels blessed that three generations in his family have lived their life at the feet of Nellaiappar and Gandhimathi. 

Swami's 3am halt of Manur Petrol Bunk!!!

The procession has seen almost 15kms on the night and at the entrance of Maanur (Manur), it is time for the Sripatham personnel to have a nap for a few hours. Most of them sleep on the floor at the HP Petrol bunk while the Gurukal who was assigned by Moorthy Gurukal for this procession slept in the Matador in which he had made the entire trip!!!

Three hours later even as the Sun breaks out on Tuesday morning, it is time for the final leg of the procession as the parivara moorthies and the divine couple enter Maanur. Contrasted with the lonely 16kms trip from Tirunelveli town to Manur sans devotees, there are hundreds of them at this historical temple town to welcome Nellaiappar and Gandhimathi. Past 6am, Moorthy Gurukal arrives at Manur in a taxi along with a next gen Gurukal (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/11/nellaiappar-koil-tirunelveli.html). Shortly after the Chairman Board of Trustees of the Nellaiappar temple arrives as does the Chief of Police. As the clock ticks to 7am, the priest of the Ambalavana temple arrives accompanied by the Melam and Vadhyam to welcome the deities to Manur.

                         CBT, Nellaiappar temple seen with folded hands

It has been a tradition to receive and break coconuts from the villagers on the morning of Avani Moolam and Moorthy and Sundar Gurukal patiently break coconuts presented by the devotees whose numbers increased by the minute. Several beautiful flower garlands are presented to Swami and Ambal. Following the mariyathai to the Police Chief, the CBT and the Ubayadarar, the procession makes it way towards the Ambalavanar temple. On the way, more devotees present flower garlands and coconuts. 

Nellaiappar provides darshan to Karuvur Siddhar

The highlight of the utsavam has been scheduled between 7am and 8am and the events go as per plan. Karuvur Siddhar had made it to Manur 24 hours earlier from the Nellaiappar temple and he was decorated early morning on Tuesday.  Past 7.15am, he made his way around the prakara of the Ambalavanar temple to the Sannidhi street that wore a truly festive look.

Hundreds gathered around Swami and Ambal even as Karuvur Siddhar went around the deities thrice with Shiva Adiyars presenting the sacred verses standing behind the palanquin. `

Othuvar's sacred verses - Karuvur Siddhar Darshan

Othuvar Senthil of Nellaiappar temple presented the sacred verses of Thiru Gnana Sambandar and then much to the delight of the big devotee crowd the moment of the utsavam arrived with Sundar Bhattar of Nellaiappar temple presenting the Deeparathanai signifying the long awaited darshan for Karuvur Siddhar. 

The legend has it that Karuvur Siddhar made it to Tirunelveli and chanted the name of Nellaiappar invoking the blessings of Swami but unfortunately when the Swami did not respond to his call, he announced that there was no Swami here and cursed the town to turn into ‘Erukkanchedi’. He headed out of the town towards Manur where Ambalavana Rishi received him and asked him the reason for his anger.  Consoling him, the rishi told him that the Lord of Tirunelveli was only testing his devotion and that he would definitely provide darshan to him.

It was on the Avani Moolam day that Nellaiappar made his way to Manur and provided darshan to Karuvur Siddhar. Delighted at the darshan of Swami, Karuvur Siddhar returned to Tirunelveli that same day and took back his curse that he had inflicted on this town.

Othuvar Senthil presented this legendary tale at the Ambalavanar Sannidhi on Tuesday and this was followed by an abhisekam. As is the trend in such historical utsavams in remote towns, the devotees were treated to a sumptuous meal following the event at Manur. 

Later in the day, Chandrasekar provided darshan in a Silver Horse Vahana at Raamaiyanpatti before reaching his abode in Tirunelveli town on Tuesday evening bringing to end the Avani Moolam utsavam at the Nellaiappar temple.