Srirangam Singar Koil Transformational Restoration

From a deserted temple not so long ago, the restoration to its historical traditional features is leading devotees to throng the temple in big numbers

Thousands visited the temple on Tuesday when Namperumal made a trip to this temple on the occasion of Vijayadasami and provided darshan on the Horse Vahana

TVS' Venu Srinivasan has orchestrated yet another transformational restoration of a temple, this time at the Kaattu Azhagiya Singar temple in Srirangam. Thousands of devotees visited the temple located in the eastern outskirts of Srirangam on the occasion of Vijayadasami on Tuesday when Namperumal provided a once in a year darshan through the day at this temple. Till a few decades ago, the Singar temple was in a discarded state. Most feared a trip to this historical temple for the path was dark and the temple abound with thick bushes. 

Snakes, Reptiles and Skeletons too!!!

The few who made their way to have darshan of  Azhagiya Singar had to encounter venomous Snakes, Udumbu and deadly big Scorpions. Similar to the twin temples of Erettai Tirupathi in Nava Tirupathi (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/02/erettai-tirupathi-transformation.html), the prakara here too was filled with bushes and one could hear the hissing snakes. Only the die-hard Narasimha devotees and those that had serious problems to contend with in life dared to venture into this area.  The temple was flanked by a burial ground in the North and green fields in the East and South. There were no electric lights anywhere in the vicinity of the temple. The only noise came from the Steam engines that passed through the Srirangam station in the West. 

The temple legend

Surrounded by the two rivers- Cauvery in the South and Coloroon in the North, this Kshetram was inhabited only by the rishis and their families in the centuries gone by. Time and again, wild animals would attack the families of the rishis and consume them for a meal.While the rishis had the power to burn the animals just by their looks, they would not forego the fruits of their penance by killing these wild animals. Instead they undertook a more severe form of penance invoking the blessings of Lord Narasimha. Pleased with their prayers, Lord Narasimha appeared here providing darshan to these rishis. As per their request, he stayed here with Goddess Lakshmi protecting the lives of all those who offer their sincere prayers at this place. The idol of Lakshmi Narasimha here is a Svayambu moorthy and is seen in a seated posture facing the West (towards Srirangam Ranganatha temple) with Lakshmi to his left. As the Lord appeared here in the middle of a forest and stayed back to protect the devotees, he came to be called ‘Kaattu’ Azhagiya Singar.

     Azhagiya Singar Temple

Deterioration of the temple infrastructure, Issues abound

As had been the trend in the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam, additional constructions came up here too in the century gone by. The second prakara remained shut for decades and not many knew the existence of this prakara. Just under two decades ago, as found in many temples in TN and in line with the new trend, the temple complex saw unwelcome additions. The path leading to the moolavar sannidhi was embellished with modern stones and the temple lost the traditional feel to it. Steel sheets too made its way into the temple. The water in the madapalli remained stuck and there was no path for the waste water to flow out. Rain water stagnated inside the temple complex. Overall, there were issues on all sides inside the temple complex.

BEFORE AND NOW

The Restoration Exercise 

Chairman of TVS Motor Company Venu Srinivasan has been involved with restoration of ancient temples for the last thirty years. He followed his transformational restoration at the Ranganathaswamy temple in the middle of the last decade with the repair works at Singar Koil a few years ago. From the restoration of the Nava Tirupathi temples in the 1990s, he has always held sticking to traditional infrastructure on top of his priority list. And thus one of the first things he did at Singar Koil was to remove the modern stones that had become integral to the temple over the previous couple of decades. He replaced these with Karungal. The overhead steel sheets were removed. The first prakara was completely dug up, the concrete flooring that had been previously laid was removed and replaced with traditional stones. 

FIRST PRAKARA EARLIER AND NOW

S Venkatesan, the maniyam at Singar Koil, has also doubled up as the cook for over four decades. He served through the dark days when snakes even made its way to the madapalli. His appa Singar Koil Maniam Srinivasan served for three decades at the temple and lived in financially challenging times selling the madapalli prasadam to make both ends meet. He watched the entire transformation process from a few yards away and the restoration to old times brought happy tears to his years.  Sitting at the entrance of the Madapalli in the Eastern corner of the first prakara,  he told this writer that Venu Srinivasan took up an almost impossible task “ The earlier Thiruppani led to concrete stones being laid in this prakara. He studied how this prakara was in historical times. The pradakshanam path way dug up a few feet and traditional stones found its way back into this prakara. The devotees have been delighted with this development as it is good for the feet. The traditional feel is now back at the temple.”

A transformed Madapalli

Venkatesan is personally happy at the transformation at the Madapalli where he has been serving for the last 42 years “There was not enough natural light at the Madapalli. Air Flow issues meant that the smoke remained with the madapalli leading to health issues. There was no proper outlet for the waste water to flow and it often got stuck in its path. There was bad odour that I had to put up with each day of the year.  I had to use a long stick to push the water away every time. Venu Srinivasan’s team studied this process and devised a system whereby the waste water now flows out of the temple into the drainage system.”

He is also delighted with the way rain water is now being saved “A system was devised by the TVS team for the rain water to be saved. In the past, there was stagnation inside the prakara. Not a drop of rain water is now wasted.”

      Earlier Addl Constructions

Where was the Second Prakara?

New visitors to the temple over the last few decades did not know about the existence of a second prakara. That had become a thing of the past. There were thick bushes around. These were removed and a pathway laid once again with traditional stones. On the Vijayadasami day, devotees in large numbers went around in a pradakshinam around this second prakara. 

     The new look 2nd Prakara

Greenery in the First Prakara, large open space

New walls had been constructed in recent decades around the first prakara that meant there was very little walking space. These were removed and this has now led to an open space that is filled with greenery.  

           The Spacious first prakara 

1970s/80s - No devotees at Singar Temple even on Vijayadasami day

Sridhar, Maniam at the Ranganathaswamy temple (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/03/srirangam-temple-time-keeper.html) has been performing Kainkaryam since 1978. He is happy with the recent turnaround having carried Namperumal on procession during the annual trip of Namperumal to the Kattu Azhagiya Singar temple when there were not too many devotees. He recalls those years from the 1970s and 80s "The entire zone after the boys high school was full of bushes. There was no electricity east of the Srirangam railway station. The entire area around the temple complex was full of trees. It was really dark and ladies did not make it to the Singar temple for the start of the Kuthirai Vahana purappadu in the evening. In those years, there were just around 20 Vethal Sripatham service personnel carrying the Lord on processions. There were hardly fifty people at the Singar Koil even on the Vijayadasami day when Namperumal provided darshan through the day. On most other days in the year, the temple was in a deserted state with only a couple of Kainkaryapakas performing service inside the temple."

Archakas now queuing up for Kainkaryam

There was a time in the not too distant past when devotees feared entering this temple complex and the archakas waited outside for devotees to turn up but it seemed like an eternal wait at that time and they shut the temple and return home saddened at the plight of the temple. Venkatesan Maniam remained committed to the Madapalli service in the most challenging phase for he believed that Azhagiya Singaperumal would one day turn around the fortunes of this temple.

Four decades after he joined service, Venkatesan points to the way the archakas are now queuing up to perform kainkaryam as testimony to the mega turnaround “Not many gave it a chance for this temple to turnaround in the way it has. The burial ground nearby also led to resistance in visiting this temple. It had been real dark days and the archakas preferred service at the Ranganathaswamy temple. Today, they are all turning up in full strength and are here sharp at six am much in contrast to the decades gone by when not many among them preferred this temple for service.”

In recent times,  devotees have been thronging the temple in large numbers on Swathi and Pradosham evenings.

Venkatesan presents three different Thaligai on Tuesday evening

From the days when only a handful of devotees were present even on the Vijayadasami day, Venkatesan considers it a great blessing to have had the opportunity to present three different Thaligai Chakkarai Pongal, Dhadhyonam and Paanagam to Namperumal on Tuesday evening that the huge number of devotees enjoyed. He recounts as to how the only time devotees turned up at Singar Koil in those dark years was for the Ven Pongal Thaligai that the devotees particularly liked. 

By 6pm on Tuesday, there were several hundreds outside the alankara mandapam eagerly waiting for a darshan of Namperumal on the Horse Vahana. After waiting a while for Vande Bharat express to pass by the Srirangam station, Namperumal crossed the railway track as he made his way back to his abode via the Sathara Veethi after a day long stay at the Singar Temple. The Vijayadasami events concluded with a Thirumanjanam of Namperumal at the Santanu Mandapam well past 9.30pm.

A Glorious Revival on all fronts

TVS Chief Venu Srinivasan (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/11/venu-srinivasan-srirangam-temple.html) can sit back with a great deal of satisfaction at having turned around the fortunes of the temple with yet another transformational restoration of a historical temple in Tamil Nadu, a journey that had started in the mid 1990s with the Nava Tirupathi temples. For the devotees, it is a devotional treat to see the temple complex return to its historical glory with large open spaces assisting easy movement around the prakaras. Also, the removal of the modern stones inside the sannidhi and the restoration of Karungal has given the devotees a good feel. For the archakas, it is glory days again, something they would not have visualised in their childhood. The thronging of big crowds especially on Swathi and Pradosham days has meant a financial revival for them, a far cry from the decades when the previous gen archakas waited endlessly for the next devotee to arrive, one that for most part proved futile.

                                     

The final word is on Venkatesan Maniam who stuck to his guns even in the worst of times not giving up his belief in Kattu Azhagiya Singa Perumal. His appa Singar Koil Srinivasan had always told him that unflinching faith would lead the Lord to shower his blessings on him and his family. On this Tuesday evening, presenting multiple Thaligai in large quantities to Namperumal gave him utmost satisfaction. Sitting at the entrance of the madapalli where he has cooked all alone for four decades, Venkatesan sports a happy smile at this restoration exercise carried out by Venu Srinivasan and his team. He has seen the temple at its lowest and now after this restoration, there is a sense of contentment within him in the way the fortunes of this ancient temple has been turned around. Devotees are after him at the madapalli with one devotee asking for a Kalkandu Bath Thaligai once a month for the next one year. On Swathi and Pradosham evenings, devotees queue up to the entrance of the temple for the prasadam. Despite the turnaround, he remains unchanged. He says that Azhagiya Singar has taken great care of him and given him all that he could have asked for in this life. Like he has been doing for decades, he sees as his role performing his kainkaryam as sincerely as possible till the time his body allows him to. 

Kaattu Azhagiya Singa Perumal temple is located 200 yards east of the Srirangam Railway Station. The temple is open from 6.15am to 12noon and 5pm to 8pm.

Rameswaram Temple Rajasthan Senior Citizen darshan

A Great Devotional Experience at the Ramanathaswamy Temple last week is leading this Senior Citizen couple from Jaipur to plan another trip to this historical temple town

Mohan Singh is 76 years old and hails from the Pink City. He has never been to the Southern tip of Tamil Nadu. Hence when the Rajasthan CM announced a free train trip to Rameswaram for Senior Citizens, Mohan immediately applied online with all the details. He was thrilled when he received the intimation that he had been chosen to go along in the exclusive train for Senior Citizens to have darshan at the Ramanathaswamy Temple in Rameswaram. 

Brings Ganga Theertham, watches Abhisekam

Mohan has been running a trading firm in Jaipur and with his son taking charge, he reached Rameswaram in the 2nd week of October. His excitement was palpable when he spoke to this writer during the 24 km auto trip to Dhanushkodi “This is the first time I am coming to Rameswaram. It was a special experience inside the Ramanathaswamy sannidhi. The priests were so sincere and devoted. We had brought Ganga Theertham and they performed abhisekam right in front of us. We have found a new inner peace after having darshan of Swami and Ambal.”

He said that he and his wife had been to Kathmandu, Omkareshwar and many other devotional locations but the experience in Rameswaram was unmatched. 

To Dhanushkodi on an auto

He also had darshan of all the Theerthams in Rameswaram. A day after darshan at the temple, he took an early morning auto to Dhanushkodi (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2023/10/dhanushkodi-1964-cyclone-survivor.html) to have a look at the confluence of Bay of Bengal and Indian Ocean. “The 24kms ride was an amazing experience. The long straight road took us right to the confluence. The seas were pure blue and we enjoyed being there. On the return trip, we saw the remains of the railway track that was washed away in the 1964 cyclone. The scene of the erstwhile railway station and the water tank made us very sad.  We heard tales of how passengers used to alight at the station here and then jump immediately on to the boat that was waiting for them to take them to Sri Lanka. We visualized as to what a wonderful journey it would have been for passengers back then till 1964.”

Vibheeshana Pattabhisekam temple

On the way back to Rameswaram, the couple had darshan at the historical Kothandarama temple (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2023/10/kothandarama-temple-dhanushkodi.html) where Rama performed Pattabhisekam for Vibheeshana after the younger brother of King Ravana offered his total surrender “We were delighted to have darshan of Vibheeshana with a princely crown on his head. We never thought that we would one day visit the location of the coronation of Vibheeshana. We also had darshan of the Shiva Lingam outside the temple. We were almost in tears after having darshan here.”

After a memorable couple of days in Rameswaram, Mohan Singh and his wife had darshan at the Meenakshi Amman temple in Madurai from where they returned to Jaipur to narrate their great experience to their family members.

Plans to be back with his family in Feb 2024

He told thiswriter that no sooner had he shared the details of the darshan to his daughter in the US, she was so excited that she has insisted to go on a trip to Rameswaram when she is next in India in February 2024. Mohan Singh is already all visualizing about his second trip to Rameswaram, this time along with his daughter and all family members  early next year such has been the devotional impact of his darshan at the Ramanathaswamy temple.

Rameswaram Ramanathaswamy Brahmin Priests Not Appointed

The Priests at this historical temple have halved in recent years. The next gen Brahmin Priests are equipped and available to perform Kainkaryam but the HR & CE has not come forward to appoint them leaving the existing priests understaffed and under pressure with the huge crowd thronging the temple in huge numbers

Maharashtra Brahmins have historically performed archaka service at the Ramanathaswamy temple in Rameswaram. They are supported by Tamil Brahmins who perform other kainkaryam within the temple. At this temple, the service personnel are categorized as Sthaanegam/Archaka,  Sarva Saathagam (Saathagachari) referred to as Sabhayar who perform pooja and recite the mantras,  Alankara Bhattar who are also responsible for the jewels and who accompany the Swami and Ambal in processions, Adyana Bhattar who present Pavitram to Gurukal, Upakainkaryam, Brahmin Maniyams, who are the captains ensuring the proper conduct of the daily poojas and the utsavams  and Mahansaya Kumbam who present Veda Parayanam and Kumba Pooja every morning and evening.

Maharastra Brahmins

Udaya Kumar Gurukal, a descendant of the Maratha Brahmin clan the sthaanegam at the temple, discontinued academics after class XII and learned the Vedas, Agamas and Pooja Kramam and secured Dikshai from the Sringeri Mutt, a pre requisite to perform archaka service at this temple. He has been continuing the archaka service that his appa Pakshi Iyer had performed for several decades. He recounts the selfless service rendered by his appa “He joined the temple in 1958 when there was no salary to the priests. They had a 1/3 share in tickets and archanai and were given high quality prasadam daily after the Kaala Poojas. In 1974, the remuneration was converted to monthly salary. It was a phase when the priests were in good numbers but the original inhabitants began to slowly move away from this temple town.”

2nd Prakara Restoration - No Thattu Kaasu for over a 100 years

He recalls as to how his forefathers well over 100 years ago took an oath that they would present the entire thattu kaasu in the temple hundi that would go towards the renovation of the 2nd prakara. A century has passed by but the renovation works of the 2nd prakara has not been completed and thus the archakas have remained without thattu kaasu till date.  The Zamindars had started the Thiruppani but with the entry of the HR & CE the works have not progressed and remained in half complete stage. The Kal Mandapam in this 2nd prakara has been in a dilapidated state and that has to be restored to its historical shape. An order has been finally given for the reconstruction and it is hoped that this will be completed over the next year or so. Unfortunately, the thattu kaasu that has been deposited by the priests specifically for the 2nd Prakara thiruppani is being pooled into the common hundis and used by the HR & CE for other purposes. 

Appa and Son perform service for over 65years

S Sivamani Sathaagachari studied in the Government School in Rameswaram but discontinued academics in this early teens. He underwent Krishna Yajur Veda initiation for seven years at the Sankara Mutt Patshala in Thiruvanaikaval, then learned the agama for a year and joined the temple in 1992 at a salary of just over Rs. 500. His appa Periya Murai Sankara Iyer had served as a Sabhayar for thirty years in most challenging times.  It was the Katti Saatham that the family managed to have their daily meals. The salary was just a few hundreds for a long time. “We struggled even for daily food. It was appa’s true devotion that kept the family going in those decades. Despite the financial challenging scenario, my appa did not move away from temple service and he encouraged us to serve the Lord unmindful of the financial challenges. It was his teachings that led me into an early interest in temple service.”

Unmindful of the Swollen Legs

The decades of selfless service of his appa has brought good fortune to him. He is happy that things have turned around financially at the temple but devotee crowd thronging the temple in large numbers has meant physical challenges for the priests “Abhisekam of the Ganga Theertham takes a big toll on the legs. Standing for hours together at the Sannidhi has resulted in swollen legs and led to a big increase in medical expenses.”

Almost 35years at the Nataraja Sannidhi

It is just a month after the 60 year old Balasubramaniam retired having performed archaka service at the Nataraja Sannidhi for over three decades. His appa passed away when he was just 8 years old. He did not know what had happened and had been in a daze. But he was devotionally attached to the temple.  He discontinued school after class VIII and began performing kainkaryam at the temple carrying the Lord on his shoulder, handing the deepam to the senior archakas and performing all kinds of services within the temple as was required at that time.

The sincerity of his kainkaryam through his teenage phase got him a full time appointment as upakainkaryam and he began to perform service at the Nataraja Sannidhi from 1989. Right from the beginning, he was keen to make the devotees happy through his devotional presentation “The devotees come with all kind of issues and sadness. God has blessed me by keeping me here for this long and placed me in a position to send them back happy and with confidence that all will be well. When I saw happiness in their face after my presentation, I found peace within myself” he told this writer.

He says with a tinge of sadness as to how 300 Brahmin families around the Mada Streets has now reduced to just 50 families. All the five streets were full of traditionally attired people and the five sacred streets around the temple was vibrant with Vedic Recitals. Till the mid 1960s there was a Vedic Patshala and Sanskrit College in Rameswaram but these have long been shut down. Through his teenage phase, he recalls the train that arrived at around 11am as the one that the priests looked for with bated breath. “It was the devotee crowd from that train that kept our family going. Even the milk in our house would be boiled only after that. They fed us every day.”

10 days Aani Utsavam - A thing of the past?

Brahmotsavam took place in Aani but that came to a halt in the 1960s and this has now been shortened to a three day utsavam. It is hoped that some this historical utsavam will be revived to its old grandeur. The Maasi Mahotsavam and the Aadi Utsavam for Ambal continues to this day. 

Severe Shortage of Priests

In the decades gone by, there were 12 Maharashtra Brahmins performing service as archakas but now this has dwindled to just 2. Similarly, the Sabhayar were in good numbers but only Sivamani Saathagaachari is performing the service now. From over 50 priests the overall number of the priests at the Ramanathaswamy temple has more than halved. There are Brahmin priests in Rameswaram who are ready to take to this Kainkaryam but the HR & CE has not called them and offered the appointment. And that has put a great deal of pressure on the existing priests for they are completely understaffed and struggling to manage the 30000+ devotee crowd on a weekend. Last Friday, the temple saw close to a Lakh people on the occasion of Mahalaya Amavasai. These have led to great physical challenges for these priests. 

Will the HR & CE take action now?

There is a need to add at least 10 priests to don the multiple sannidhis. At the moment, it looks like the voice of the Maharashtra Brahimin Priests and the Tamil Brahmins Priests is not being heard by the HR & CE. A new JC has just take over charge at the temple. It is hoped that he will assist in the appoint of the Brahmin Priests at the temple lest the existing priests suffer further health issues. Will the HR & CE take immediate steps to address this shortage and appoint Brahmin Priests to manage the ever increasing crowd. 

Only last week, this section had featured a story on how the private agents were fleecing the devotees, especially those from outside the state (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2023/10/ramanathaswamy-temple-rameswaram.html).

It is hoped that the HR & CE minister PK Sekar Babu will visit the temple, understand the current scenario and initiate action both to control the tout menace outside the temple and the priests shortage inside the temple without any further delay.

Dhanushkodi 1964 Cyclone Survivor

From a completely deserted location sixty years ago, Dhanushkodi has now become a vibrant tourist attraction after the extension of the road to Arichal Munai

Rani recounts the terrible night when she experienced the devastation of Dhanushkodi as a nine year old

Rani was not yet ten when the terrible cyclone struck Dhanushkodi late that night in 1964. She was a class four girl. Her appa ran the family based on fishing business. Standing next to the tank from where the steam engine of the Boat Mail express was filled with water, Rani now 69 looks back at that horrendous night for her family and the residents of Dhanushkodi “It was past 3am.  My neighbour came shouting that water was entering the homes. My appa ran out. In a matter of minutes, our house was filled with water. My two brothers, my amma and me stayed back in our home while my appa went outside to see what was happening.”

Later that morning, when we came out, we found that all our relatives were gone. The train too sunk and all the passengers passed away. Passengers would get down here at this end point and immediately board the boat that was waiting for them to take them to Lanka.  But that night was the final trip of that train that did not see through to its end point.

She is grateful to Collector Natarajan “He initially offered us land in Mandapam but those that survived refused that as our fishing work was all here in Dhanuskodi. He then gave all of us land a few kms from here. We are all grateful to him for helping us with our livelihood by giving us a roof over our head.”

                                      1964 Railway Track

That place came to be known as Natarajapuram after the collector. The last remains of the railway track can still be seen near Dhanushkodi as can be the water tank. It will be sixty years next year. Rani has been one survivor who is still alive to recount that disastrous night. She fought bravely and has managed to live a cheerful life. 

                 The last remains of the 1964 water tank to fill water for the steam engine

The erstwhile Truck Drive on the sand Dhanushkodi to Arichal Munai

Auto driver Maheshwaran is 35 years old and for over 15years he drove visitors on a jeep till on thick sand.  This writer went on that truck drive in 2006 along with 20 others on a lone drive. There were no others in that region that day. He charged Rs. 25 from each of the visitors for that drive that brought one to the confluence of Indian Ocean and Bay of Bengal. The sand was pure white and the sea pure blue. It was unchartered territory. Only the brave hearted chose to visit the southern tip with Sri Lanka just seven nautical miles away. There were boatmen asking if one would want to make the trip to the Northern point of Lanka but all the visitors chose to return to Dhanushkodi by that truck ride that took 45 minutes each way for about 4kms. The driver had to use card board and metal plates below the tyre every hundred yards to get the truck to move through the thick beach sand. 

Maheshwaran told this writer on an auto ride from Rameswaram to Dhanushkodi that for over a decade he made good money on every truck trip on the sand from Dhanushkodi to Arichal Munai on the Mahindra Jeep that he owned “The Chatram Check Post was the final point by road. From there, without the strenuous drive through the thick sand, the visitors would not have been able to go to the confluence of Indian Ocean and Bay of Bengal. It was my drive through those last 4 kms that helped them reach the tip of the country. Most people feared getting on to the truck. There were absolutely no human habitation after the check post. It was a most tiring drive and took a lot of my physical energy but it gave me great satisfaction when I saw the happiness on their faces on getting down from the truck at the Southern tip. Each one of the visitor was thankful for driving through an almost impossible final few kms when there was no road.”

Outside of the repair expenses that amounted to Rs. 2lakhs every year (because the salty conditions rusted the truck), he made about Rs. 25000 per month.   

Road Extension to Arichal Munai

In 2017, PM Modi launched the newly built road that extended right down to Arichal Munai. “This killed the decades long service that we offered on the rugged truck. And I moved from truck ride to taking the visitors on my auto to the final point of Dhanushkodi. The crowd has increased manifold after the extension of the road to Arichal Munai.”

From being scared to take the last few kms through the sand drive, visitors are now thronging this final stretch of four kms. “There are at least 300 visitors who take to the Arichal Munai past Dhanushkodi on a week day. This has become a big tourist attraction.”

Rani endured the devastation of Dhanushkodi in her childhood but she fought through the disaster and has survived sixty years living a cheerful life. Maheshwaran was the one who took visitors to the confluence of Indian Ocean and Bay of Bengal when no road existed and now he takes them from the Ramanathaswamy temple in Rameswaram on his new auto through the 24 kms road trip. 

For a decade he had the joy of driving them through the sand and now the demand for his auto service is high as Dhanushkodi has turned into a most sought after tourist destination. On the return journey, he takes them to the historical Kothandarama temple that will soon see a massive renovation and reconstruction.

A four people share auto from Rameswaram to Dhanushkodi including to Rama temple will cost Rs. 800.

Thiru Pullani Next Gen Balaji Bhattar

Devotionally inclined, keen on archaka kainkaryam

28 year old Balaji Bhattar has taken over as an archaka at Thiru Pullani succeeding his appa but his future remains uncertain

Jayaraman Bhattar is now past 60 and has just handed over the reigns to his son Balaji Bhattar. He served at the Aathi Jagannathan Perumal temple in Thiru Pullani Divya Desam, praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar as an archaka for four decades. His appa Padmanabhan Bhattar served for over half a century. There were no devotees at the temple when Jayaraman Bhattar entered his teenage phase in the early 70s. It was financially a big struggle for the entire family. . They lived in a hut house on the South Street and it was in a bad shape. There was also severe water shortage in the region and that compounded the archaka family's troubles.  There was no electricity in Thiru Pullani till the mid 1970s and he studied under the Chimney light through his schooling years. 

In 1979, he joined the temple at a monthly salary of Rs. 50 that went up to Rs. 2500 almost 45years later at the time of his retirement. He and his appa had 7 ½ days service each every month at the temple. Soon after he topk over, the scenario deteriorated further and things did not seem to look up with most of the original inhabitants leaving this Divya Desam towards larger cities. There was shortage of service personnel too. 

Against this backdrop, he received an offer from Srinivasa Perumal temple in Singapore in 1987 and took that up while Padmanabhan Bhattar continued to serve Darbha Sayana Ramar. 

For five years, Jayaraman Bhattar served as an archaka in Singapore and returned to Thiru Pullani in 1992. He renovated the hut house after his return and has been living there ever since. 

The Samprokshanam in 2003 and the return of the devotees in large numbers over the last 15 years has turned around the fortunes of the temple and the archakas. 

Temple Legend

The Aathi Jagannatha Perumal temple in Thiru Pullani is one whose legend dates back to the Ramayana. It is believed that Raama invoked the blessings of Adhi Jagannathan before he departed for Lankan battle. It was here that Vibheeshana, the brother of Ravana, came for refuge and surrendered to Lord Raama asking him for help and hence this is a temple said to be the most sacred for those devotees seeking ‘Absolute Surrender to Lord’. 

It was also here on the banks of River Sethu that Raama spread the Darbha grass and undertook a fast addressing Varuna (Sea Lord) looking to him for a solution to cross the sea.  There is a separate sannidhi for Darbha Sayana Raama at this temple.

  

Raama’s marks on Squirrel

The Squirrel, which on seeing the monkeys helping Lord Raama, too wanted to help out the Lord. Being small in nature, they could not carry the trees and boulders. Hence, they did something innovative. The squirrels rolled on the sand and then ran back to the Sethu Bridge and dropped off the sand that had stuck to their body. So impressed was Lord Raama that he rubbed the squirrels with warmth, a mark that remains to this day on the body of every squirrel.

Next Gen- Choices to make? 

Both his sons have chosen the traditional path for their future though there is one big challenge ahead of them. His elder son Balaji Bhattar is 28 and has taken over charge as an archaka at this Divya Desam. They have been looking for a girl for him for a few years but brides are not forthcoming to reside in Thiru Pullani. His amma is keen for him to switch over to the Corporate World while his appa wants him to continue the Divya Desam Kainkaryam. Currently, they are in a dilemma caught between temple service as a way of life and working in a company in a city to get brides interested. 

தன்னை விக்கிலேன் வல்வினையேன் தொழுதும் எழு

பொன்னை விக்கும் அப் பூஞ் செருந்தி மண நீழல்வாய்

என்னை நைவித்து எழில் கொண்ட அகன்ற பெருமான் இடம்

புன்னை முத்தம் பொழில் சூழ்ந்து அழகாய புல்லாணியே

Referring to the Lord as one residing by the sea shore, Thiru Mangai Azhvaar says in the Priya Thirumozhi that the waves hit the shores with such thundering velocity that it looks like a galloping horse running at full speed. 

Devotionally Inclined

Balaji Bhattar has been devotionally attached to the temple right from his childhood. He told this writer that even as a school boy, he spent a lot of time at the temple. He preferred the Veshti as an attire even before he touched the teens and performed Thiru Aradhanam for Perumal at home. In 2008, after his thread ceremony, he began to perform kainkaryam at the temple. He says that he wants archaka service as his way of life but not getting a bride is a worry for the family. He does not have an answer to his amma’s query as to how he will be able to pass on this kainkaryam to the next gen if he does not get to find a bride. 

His younger brother is learning the agamas at Shengalipuram (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/08/senkalipuram-perumal-temple.html?m=1) and he too is interested in a traditional way of life. 

An uncertain future

Four decades ago, there were no devotees, low salary, minimal thattu kaasu but Jayaraman Bhattar chose to continue in his appa's footsteps. Today, devotees are thronging this temple and it's financially fulfilling but a new trend of girls' non acceptance to marry archakas in remote temples has put the next gen priests in a spot. 

Balaji Bhattar is high on devotion and is keen to live a life at the feet of Jagannathan Perumal and Darbha Sayana Ramar. But at the moment, it looks like service as an archaka with a tuft especially in a remote town will not get him a girl. Time will tell if he chooses to let go his go away his traditional attire and move away from archaka service into the cities and the corporate world as per his amma's wishes or if he will continue this kainkaryam that he has just taken up from the long serving Jayaraman Bhattar. 

Kothandarama temple Dhanushkodi

On this fourth Saturday of Puratasi, Ramar provides ‘Garuda Sevai’ darshan taking a 10km trip from the Ramanathaswamy temple in Rameswaram

In Aani, the historical episode of Vibheeshana Pattabhisekam is played out

Sanjeevi Bhattar - A Life dedicated to Dhanushkodi Ramar

Sanjeevi Bhattar has just turned sixty and officially retired last month but his selfless service over a long close to four decades to Kothandaramar at the historic location of Vibheeshana Pattabhishekam has led the HR & CE to request him to continue to offer his Kainkaryam. And thus this Saturday (Oct 14) morning, he accompanied for yet another time the handsome looking Kothandaramar from the Ramanathaswamy temple in Rameswaram on a ten kilometer trip to the Kothandaramar temple in Dhanushkodi.

He moved to the temple in the 1980s when there were absolutely no devotees. His appa had passed away when he was just three years old and it was his amma who helped him through his school education. The financial situation had turned so bad that he chose not to pursue his academics and told her that he would take care of her but unfortunately she too passed away in the mid 80s. 

No devotees at the Ravaged Dhanushkodi 

Dhanushkodi had been ravaged by a terrible cyclone a couple of decades prior and the entire town had been damaged after the devastation leaving only a few survivors. The railway station in Dhanushkodi had buried under the impact of the cyclone. His predecessor had performed archaka service in the worst of times for over four decades and it was who protected the utsava idol from the cyclone when he carried the heavy deity by hand to safety. The previous archaka also provided food to the odd devotees visiting Dhanushkodi to see what remained of that location. 

Early years all alone with Kothandaramar

There were no bus services to Rameswaram till the launch of the Pamban road bridge in late 1980s. In those early years, Sanjeevi Bhattar spent a lot of time alone with Kothandaramar. This Saturday is one of the few utsavam days in the year at this temple when the utsava idol Rama, who has been in safe custody at the Ramanathaswamy temple for the last several decades makes his way to Dhanushkodi. Sanjeevi Bhattar is all excited to be part of this long Garuda Sevai trip yet another time. Right from his childhood, he had decided to make this a spiritual journey for himself. Even as a school boy, he performed archaka service at a local Hanuman temple in Dindugal where he spent his early years. 

He recounts to this writer his memorable devotional engagement with Ramar in his initial phase at this temple “ I walked to the temple all the way from Rameswaram and later there was just one bus.  It did not tire me for I seemed to have the devotional energy. A total of 20 devotees visited the temple through the day. I consider it my greatest blessing that I was assigned for this kainkaryam and being all alone with Rama I engaged in great devotional conversations with the Lord. I read the Sundara Kandam several times and many other religious books sitting in front of Rama in those years.”

 

Interactions with interesting personalities

During his long engagement at this temple as the sole archaka, he encountered many interesting experiences. From Sankaracharya to Corporate Chiefs, he had seen them all. Devotees from the North see Vibheeshana as a villain who usurped the kingdom from Ravana. Sanjeevi Bhattar considers it his duty to clarify that posititioning. He says that to all of them he extols the greatness of Vibheeshana and his surrender to Lord Rama as the greatest lesson from the epic.

An eye opener letter from Judge

When the Judge of Hyderabad High Court had darshan at the temple in the early 1990s, he was very impressed with the way the priest performed archaka service and had good words of praise. Buoyed by this encouragement, Sanjeevi Bhattar gathered courage to write a postal letter to him asking for a job. He recollects the response from the Judge that turned out to be an eye opener for him “There were no devotees and I was paid a salary of just Rs. 5 per day. In one of those excitable moments, I wrote a letter to the Judge. He wrote back promptly saying that he considered my service as higher than any other job in the country. To be serving at this historical sacred location as an exclusive priest was more prestigious than a job in a company. That letter from him opened my eyes and I realized as to how blessed I was to be performing this Kainkaryam.  I consider those early years as a glorious phase in my life as I was able to talk to Rama all alone and received a devotional enlightenment.”

Goes to Netherlands for a brief period

For over a decade, he slept every night in the Thinnai at a friend’s house in Rameswaram. He asked Kothandaramar if he would bless him with a small house. At the turn of the century, a surprise offer came his way. He was interviewed in Delhi for a global Kainkaryam opportunity. When he told them that he was performing archaka service at the location where Rama performed Pattabhishekam for Vibheeshana, he was immediately offered and moved to Netherlands for a year. 

There were longer term overseas contracts coming his way and lucrative financial deals on offer. When the HR & CE asked him a Yes or a No between Rama Kainkaryam and overseas engagement, he chose service at the feet of Rama and never went back again. He built a small 500 square feet house in Rameswaram and has been living there for the last two decades. 

After almost thirty years, Samprokshanam was performed in 2007 (the earlier consecration had taken place in 1978) and he felt blessed to be anchoring the event. 

Utsavams

The Aani Utsavam is the big day in the year at Dhanushkodi. A day before Hastham, the utsava deity of Rama makes his way to this temple for Vibheeshana Pattabhisekam. On the fourth Saturday of Puratasi Rama makes his way on the Garuda Vahana for Pancha Deepam at this temple. 

Even today there is no electricity at this temple. Hence after sunrise on the first day of Margazhi, there is a Thirumanjanam followed by a Grand Alankaram.

Massive Renovation/Reconstruction planned

Over the last decade or so, the crowds have swelled but Sanjeevi Bhattar has not been happy in the was this development has turned out “In the 1980s, real devotees came to the temple. Even high profile people came as simple devotees and had the greatest respect for archaka service. Today, this has turned into a tourist spot with visitors focusing on taking photo shots of this location than understanding Vibheeshna Saranagathi and its relevance in our daily life.”

The HR & CE is now planning a massive Rs. 10crore renovation and reconstruction of the Kothandaramar temple in Dhanushkodi. With the modernization of the temple, this historical location may never be the same again. But for the moment Sanjeevi Bhattar feels very blessed that he performed the exclusive archaka service for close to four decades and at a time when the temple still retained its old world charm. 

The temple is open from 6.30am to 6pm.

Ramanathaswamy Temple Rameswaram Devotees Fleeced

Huge crowd throng the historical temple on Mahalaya Amavasai but issues galore around the four Mada Streets 

No Mobile Lockers, No Cloak Rooms, No toilet & bath facilities and No  Lodging offered by the HR & CE in a temple that has on this Puratasi Amavasai Saturday attracted 75000 devotees 

The HR & CE should take immediate devotee friendly steps to provide a better devotional experience

Till the 1980s, there were no bus services to Rameswaram and the only way to reach this historical temple town was by rail. Devotee crowd was minimal and one was able to have peaceful darshan. Since the launch of the Pamban road bridge in the second half that decade, crowd has increased manifold and even more so at the turn of the century when the devotional wave began to hit TN temples. 

15000 devotees visit the Ramanathaswamy temple on weekdays and this doubles over the weekends. The number shoots up significantly on Amavasai days. There were around 75000 people this Saturday morning on the occasion of the Mahalaya Amavasai in Puratasi. The new EO, Sivaram Kumar, who has taken over charge only a couple of months had a long meeting with the collector in Ramanathapuram earlier this week in preparation for this event on Saturday.

Devotees being fleeced by Agents

Unfortunately for the devotees, agents in this temple town have been having a field day and the HR & CE has not been able to do much about it for a long time. The fleecing of devotees start right at the main bus stand 2kms west of the temple.  North Indian devotees land up at 4.15 am by bus from the Mandapam station. With the renovation and reconstruction of the Rameswaram station, the trains now stop at Mandapam and one has to take the road to Rameswaram. Keen to have the early morning darshan at the temple, most succumbed and paid the charges demanded to reach the temple. Most were told that there were no local buses to the temple and hence they had to use the private services to reach the temple if they wanted to have morning darshan.

The Scenario outside the temple

Once they reached the temple, scenes turned even worse. There are no official toilet or bath facilities on offer from the HR & CE and hence these devotees are caught unawares and fall prey to the local agents. Mobile phones are not allowed inside the temple and the devotees have to deposit these with the private shops. A typical mobile deposit costs Rs. 20. Devotees have to shell out Rs. 50 for locker facility to deposit their bag. Also, the devotees are fleeced for the bath and toilet facilities which once again belong only to the private operators. Currently there is official place to leave the chappals and these too cost. Needless to say the lodging options rooms cost huge around the temple leaving the North Indians shocked. 

For a long time, the agents also organised darshan and the devotees had to shell out a bomb for darshan. By the time the devotees are out of the temple a lot of their money has already been taken away from them but they are in for a bigger shock. To take them to all the Theerthams is another money minting opportunity and here too devotees are at the mercy of the agents. 

Devotee Friendly steps taken recently by the HR & CE

It is refreshing to see the new EO taking positive devotee friendly steps soon after his taking charge. He has immediately put paid to agents fleecing the devotees for darshan with a process inside the temple complex that is now keeping the agents away. The queue system is being streamlined and devotees can expect a new experience and a relief from the fleecing agents who will be taken to task if they try to fleece the unwary devotees. Another new initiative by the HR & CE has been the periodic announcements made through a public address system to alert the devotees from not falling prey to the agents. A 30000 litre purified water tank is being installed to supply free water to the devotees. Across the temple complex, new fans have been installed this week for those standing in the queue for darshan. 

New Mobile Lockers, Free Chappal Stand

As another devotee friendly step, the new EO is planning to install lockers where 850 mobiles can be kept for Rs.  5each compared to the Rs. 20 that is being currently charged by the private shops. He is also setting up a free slipper facility where 1000 pairs can be kept at any point of time. 

Don't splash the sacred ash on the pillars

For long the devotees have been splashing the vibhoothi handed to them by the priest on to the pillars. The EO is this month organising five lakh small packets that devotees could use to place the extra vibhoothi that remains after they sport on the forehead.

Official HR & CE lodging facilities for devotees

The official Yatri Nivas similar to the beautiful one in Srirangam has been handed to the tourism department. There is a huge 20000 sq ft  available space available in front of the railway station. Once the renovation of the station is complete, the temple authorities hope to launch this as a huge guest house that can provide accommodation to several hundreds of devotee families in one location. Through this exercise, the HR & CE hopes to further restrict the fleecing of the agents in this town.

Putting the huge Canteen space to better use

The current contract with the devasthanam canteen is coming to an end shortly. This too has not been used appropriately in recent times. The HR & CE could look to modify this and look at devotee welfare measures at the huge space available.

Official bath and toilet facilities?

The cloak room is in a dilapidated condition. The HR & CE  should set up an official locker system where the devotees can leave behind their baggage. There are also issues with the underground drainage system which has not been streamlined for many years. The HR & CE should work together with the local town authorities to modify the drainage system and take steps to provide bath and toilet facilities to the devotees. Free Battery cars have been successfully run in a few large temples in TN. While there are three battery cars at the temple’s disposal, this has not been put to use and here again the devotees are being charged by external operators. 

Will the HR & CE play a positive role

The HR & CE have to work towards providing a far better experience to devotees, especially to those from outside the state so they take back a positive feedback about this historical temple. At the moment, that enjoyable experience is missing and Rameswaram bound devotees from outside TN have only complaints about their experience in the way they have been fleeced in every corner of the town. 

The new EO seems keen to implement devotee friendly initiatives in this temple town. He had enjoyed a good short stint at the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam earlier this year before moving into this high pressure temple. The good news is that he seems to be committed to provide a transformational experience to the several thousands that throng the temple these days and is hoping to be make a contribution to the devotee experience.  Will the HR & CE take action against the unauthorised agents and help devotees enjoy a devotional trip both to the temple and the theerthams.

The HR & CE minister PK Sekar Babu  (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2023/05/hr-ce-minister-sekar-babu-on-roll.html) has been a regular at many of the large temples across the state and showcased the initiatives taken under his reign. He should visit the Ramanathaswamy temple in Rameswaram to take stock of the current scenario and understand the way the devotees are being fleeced and why the HR & CE should launch official facilities to provide a far better experience to devotees.

This section will track the developments to see if the HR & CE will take positive action to provide the visitors with a more devotional experience right from the time they place their foot in Rameswaram.