Pazhamuthir Cholai Arupadai Veedu

It was here that Lord Muruga came to rest after slaying the asura in Tiruchendur

Muthu Kumar Gurukal has been carrying on the archaka service handed by his forefathers

42year old Muthu Kumar Gurukal has been visiting the Arupadai Veedu Murugan temple in Pazhamuthir Cholai right from the time he was a young boy way back in the 1980s. He would often accompany his Thatha Karthikeya Gurukal on the long uphill path to the temple watching him performing the pooja with great devotion.

His Thatha had joined the temple in the 1960s and performed service for over three decades. A week after the now popular and grand Kanda Sashti Utsavam, Muthu Kumar Gurukal recounts the tales around the annual Kanda Sashti Utsavam that his Thatha had narrated to him during his school days “My Thatha would carry all the pooja items on his head ahead of Kanda Sashti Utsavam and walk all the way from his quarters in Azhagar Koil to Pazha Muthir Cholai at a time where there was no proper road and the entire hill was inhabited by wild animals. He also doubled up as the cook at the madapalli. There were not too many devotees in those time, very minimal thattu kaasu and it was financially very challenging for the family in that phase.”

As things improved slightly, his thatha began to cycle to the temple. With the passing of decades, the road has been well built and is relaid often enabling an easy passage for the priests of this generation. 

Financial Challenges didn't deter him

While he saw the financial challenges that his thatha and appa faced, it would have been normal for Muthu Kumar Gurukal to have taken the academics route to gain entry into the corporate world like many of his contemporaries but right from a young age his mind had been directed towards a devotional way of life and continuing the archaka service that he saw the two of them carry out during his childhood with great sincerity. 

Quits school, joins Allur Patshala

He quit academics after class VIII in the mid 1990s and joined the Veda Agama Patshala in Allur (Trichy) “I never visualised a college life or moving away from temple service to work in a company. The thought had been instilled in my mind at an early age that service at this Arupadai Veedu should be my way of life and I had no second thoughts on this.”

Soon after his Patshala education, at the turn of the century, he joined his appa in archaka service at Pazha Muthir Cholai.

A share in tickets and abhisekams

Contrary to what is the practice in most HR & CE temples now, Muthu Kumar Gurukal does not take a fixed monthly salary and continues the historical practice at Pazha Muthir Cholai. He has a percentage share in archanai, alankaram, abhisekam and ticket collection, in addition to the thattu kaasu.

Big Turnaround, Huge devotee crowd

After the Kumbabhisekam in 2014, fortunes have changed dramatically at the temple and with the gaining popularity of Aru Padai Veedu, much like Divya Desams and Paadal Petra Sthalam, devotees have been thronging Pazha Muthir Cholai in large numbers.

Muthu Kumar Gurukal says that even on normal days, the tourists have been visiting in good numbers so much so that he now has full time assistants for the sannidhis to support him daily as well as during the utsavams, a far cry from the decades when his thatha just had two watchmen for company. Over the last decade or so, there has also been a full time paricharaka at the madapalli to take care of the Neivedyam unlike the dark decades of the second half of the 20th century when Karthikeya Gurukal and later his son had to double up both as the priest and the cook at the madapalli.

Grand Utsavams and Vahana Processions

Vaikasi Visakam, Aadi Karthigai, Kanda Sashti, Thai Poosam are all celebrated in a grand way with abisekam, alankaram and purapadu. 

Saivite Priests welcome Sundararaja Perumal

The Murugan temple in Pazha Muthir Cholai is also symbolic of the Saivite Vaishnavite unity as was seen last week on the Dwadashi day in Aippasi when Sundararaja Perumal from Azhagar Koil made his way to Noopura Gangai for Thailakkappu and Neeraattam utsavam. The priests from the Murugan temple climbed up the steep hilly path to present flower garland to Perumal on his way to Noopura Gangai.

Lord Muruga came here after slaying the Asuras

While the Azhvaars referred to the Perumal’s presence in Maaliruncholai Malai and the greatness of this hill (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2015/09/thiru-maliruncholai-periyazhvar.html), Saivite Poets referred to the presence of Murugan at Pazha Muthir Cholai Malai. It was here that he came to rest after slaying the asuras in Tirchendur. Silambaru, the sacred falls, that Sundararaja Perumal visits every year in Aippasi, is just a couple of hundred yards from Pazha Muthir Cholai temple (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2024/11/azhagar-koil-noopura-ganga-aippasi.html). Arunagirinathar has sung 15 verses of praise of the Lord of Pazha Muthir Cholai. He refers to Solai Malai being abound with mansions and mandapams and gopurams giving an indication that this would have been a beautiful temple town with people living a wealthy life. 

Maliruncholai Malai also finds a reference in the historic Paripatal (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2015/09/paripatal-on-vishnu.html).

Muthu Kumar Gurukal is delighted that he has been presented with an opportunity to perform archaka service at this abode of Lord Muruga. He says that the great devotion with which his thatha and appa performed service at this temple in those dark decades is now paying off with the revival of this historical temple and that the Lord has given him everything he could have hoped for in this life. As with many priests of this generation, he has had a late marriage and is hoping that he would be blessed with a son to continue the archaka service at Pazha Muthir Cholai.

The temple is open from 6.30am to 7pm on all days. A bus plies every 15minutes or so from Azhagar Koil to Pazha Muthir Cholai (ticket Rs. 10).

Pazha Muthir Cholai is about 2 kms uphill from Azhagar Koil Divya Desam

Azhagar Koil Noopura Ganga Aippasi Thailakkaappu Neerattam Utsavam

Sundararaja Perumal went up the steep ‘Victory Hill’ this Wednesday for the Thailakappu Neeraattam Utsavam on the occasion of Sukla Paksha Dwadasi in Aippasi

In the fourth canto of his Thirumozhi, Periyazhvar provides great insights into Thiru Maliruncholai and makes repeated references to Noopura Gangai and its greatness. He says that celestial maidens came all the way to bathe in the sacred falls that flowed down from the Thiru Malirun Cholai hills. He praises Noopura Gangai as producing sacred water. The Kalpataru flowers in heaven are filled with nectar like fragrance and he compares that to Noopura Gangai which he praises as having a similar fragrance

ஈட்டிய பல் பொருள்கள் எம்பிரானுக்கு அடியுறை என்று 

ஒட்டரும் தண் சிலம்பாறு உடை மாலிருஞ் சோலையதே

Legend has it that during his Trivikrama Avatara, Lord Narayana’s feet stretched to Brahmma Logam where a delighted Brahmma poured the sacred water on the Silambu / Noopuram worn by the Lord on his feet. This sacred water poured from the Lord’s feet to this place in Thiru Maliruncholai on Sukla Paksha Dwadasi in Aipasi. In celebration of this legendary episode, Lord Kallazhagar, the Utsava deity of Azhagar Koil, makes an annual trip up the hilly terrain to Noopura Gangai on this day every year for the Thailakappu and Neerattam Utsavam.

வானாட்டில் நின்று மாமலர்க் கற்பகத் தொத்த இழி

தேனாறு பாயும் தென் திரு மாலிருஞ் சோலையே

This event was enacted this Wednesday (Nov 13) at Thiru Maliruncholai Malai, a hill that Periyazhvaar refers to as one with thousands of lakes and flower groves and where the Lord is reclining with a thousand arms and a thousand crowns on the serpent with a thousand hoods. There is a rock carving atop the Nupura Ganga of the Lord in a Sayana Kolam on a huge Serpant.

ஆயிரம் தோல் பரப்பி முடி ஆயிரம் மின்னிலக

ஆயிரம் பைந்தலைய அனந்தசயனன் ஆளும் மலை

 ஆயிர  மாருகளும் கணைகள் பலவாயிரமும்

Kallazhagar (Sundararaja Perumal), the Utsava deity at the Azhagar Koil Divya Desam began a two hour procession from his abode at Azhagar Koil to the sacred Noopura Gangai Theertham atop Maliruncholai hills. Not so long ago, this trip used to take longer and Kallazhagar would reach the mandapam atop the hill only after 11.30am but with infra development has led to a great improvement facilitating a comparitively easier trip for the Sripatham.

Newly laid road up the Maliruncholai Hill

Till half a century ago, the procession took place through the hilly terrain, bereft of a proper road and the Sripatham Thangis along with Kainkaryapakas had to wade their way through bushes, tall trees and a rocky path uphill to reach Noopoura Gangai. Old timers recounted as to how they took to this arduous procession with great devotion keeping a close watch on wild animals along with the way. It was quite a strenuous trip up the hill with most of the Kainkaryapakas ending up with bleeding feet but in the decades gone by they did it all with devotion to the Lord of Thiru Maliruncholai. With the gaining popularity of Pazhamuthir Cholai, one of the six abodes of Lord Muruga, the tar road was relaid ahead of the utsavam paving way for a less strenuous procession. 

Periyazhvaar describes Thiru Maliruncholai as home to huge elephants that make their way into the forest in large numbers as a herd. The Wild elephants are seen chasing helpless cows into the forest of Thiru Maliruncholai. Even as late as the 1970s and 80s, the priests had such ‘wild’ experiences during this annual trip of the Lord in Aippasi.

Hundreds of devotees gathered at the temple early morning on Wednesday and led by the temple elephant and the white horse and to the tunes of the Nadaswaram, Kallazhagar began his procession going around the inner prakara before taking leave from the Lord protecting the temple at  Padhinettaam Padi.

Historical Inscription

An Inscription on the wall between the Perumal and Thayar Sannidhi of the Thiru Maliruncholai Divya Desam in the outskirts of Madurai refers to an undertaking during the coronation ceremony of Sundara Pandyan that he would continue the ‘Thalai Aruvi’ Utsavam and that if he did not it would amount to killing a 1000 sacred cows, testifying that the one of its kind festival at Nupura Ganga (Silambaru) is a historical one.

Periyazhvaar says that Pandya King Nedumaran of Koodal came to Thiru Maliruncholai in a thanking gesture to the Lord and to celebrate his victory. Those who visited the Lord at Thiru Maliruncholai and invoked his blessings before an event always returned with victory and came back to thank the Lord. And hence he describes it as a VICTORY HILL.

கொல் நவில் கூறவேற் கோன்

நெடுமாறன் தென் கூடற் கோன்

தென்னன் கொண்டாடும்

தென் திரு மாலிருஞ் சோலையே

Despite being a weekday, buses carried devotees in good numbers to Pazhamuthir Cholai making it a challenging procession for the Sripatham thangis as they had to make way for the vehicles plying up as well as coming down. 

Aru Padai Veedu Murugar Prasadam

Led by the Chief Priest Muthu Kumar Gurukal, the representatives of Murugan temple presented Mariyathai to Sundararaja Perumal while he crossed Pazhamuthir Cholai on this once a year Aippasi trip to Noopura Gangai for the Thailakkaappu utsavam.

Beautifully Decorated Noopura Gangai Mandapam

Hundreds of devotees had already stationed themselves in front of the mandapam at Noopura Gangai that was decorated with hundreds of apples and oranges to welcome Sundararaja Perumal. For over an hour, they were treated to a delightful Thailakkappu presentation by the popular and well known chief priest Ambi Narayana Bhattar. An ‘alankaram specialist’ he is continuing in the footsteps of his forefathers who presented this alankaram over the last century. After applying the sacred oil multiple times, he devotionally combed the Lord’s long hair sending the devotees into a trance. Following the Deepaarathanai, as expected there was a big rush to receive the sacred Thailam from the Bhattar. After a 90 minute presentation, it was commendable of him to patiently to reach out to every single devotee to present this oil to them.

The Eternal Spring

In line with Periyazhvaar’s praise of Silambaru as an ‘eternal water spring’, water gushes down the slope to Azhagar Koil from Nupura Ganga all through the year without a break, quite a unique feature of this location. It was 1pm when Sundararaja Perumal made his down the steps to Noopura Gangai after Mariyathai in front of Raakaayi Amman Sannidhi for a two hour bath after the Thailakkappu. This sacred moment of the Utsavam when Kallazhagar makes his way to Silambaru, where he has a ‘direct’ bath from the spring is the only one of its kind in a Divya Desam. 

Periyazhvaar says that devotees came from towns and villages to take a holy dip in Noopura Gangai in an effort to rid themselves of the sins. And when Ambi Narayanan Bhattar splashed this holy water on the devotees they were reminded of Periyazhvaar’s verse and their face brightened up and they seemed to be gripped with an elated feeling of devotion. For a couple of hours, devotees thronged the Noopura Gangai Theertham for a darshan of the Lord having bath, as well as to receive the blessings through the sacred water splashed on them by the Bhattar. There was great devotional fervour among the devotees as they lined up down the steps to have that once in a year darshan of the Divya Desam Perumal.

The Victory Hill -Thiru Maliruncholai

அலை வலைமை தவிர்த்த

அழகன் அலங்காரன் மலை

குல மலை கோல மலை

குளிர் மா மலை கொற்ற மலை

நில மலை நீண்ட மலை

திரு மாலிருஞ் சோலை யதே

Thiru Koshtiyur Madhavan who has had a close devotional attachment with Azhagar Koil for many decades led Thirupathi Jeer to Noopura Gangai to receive a splash of the Noopura Gangai Theertham from the Bhattar. 

After a day long stay at Noopura Gangai, Kallazhagar made his way back to Azhagar Koil in the evening bringing to end the  Aippasi Thailakkappu- Neeraattam Utsavam.

Koodal Azhagar Aippasi Oonjal Utsavam 2024

The Utsava Deity went on a procession around the Prakara before resting himself for an hour long display on the Oonjal

Bhattars double up as Vedic Reciters during the Oonjal Utsavam

Around a hundred devotees watched the start of the three day Oonjal Utsavam at the Koodal Azhagar Divya Desam in Madurai on Wednesday (Nov 13) evening, a day when the Utsava deity at another Divya Desam, Azhagar Koil, not far from here went on a trip atop the Thiru Maliruncholai hills for Thailakkappu utsavam at Noopur Ganga. At 7.30pm, the utsava deity with glittering pathakam on his chest and seen in a grand white silk vastram went on a procession around the prakara with Sathatha Vaishnava, who continues to perform the Kainkaryam at this temple, leading the way.

The Greatness of this Divya Desam

It was after invoking the blessings of Koodal Azhagar that Vishnu Chittar arrived in the court of Vallabha Deva to present his views on 'Parathaththuvam'. His description of Lord Narayana as the Supreme Being and his narration of references from the Vedic Scriptures and the suggestion that worshipping him in one’s life time with devotion was the highest form of worship thrilled Vallabha Deva Pandya.Even as he was finishing his speech, the golden coins were showered on him for Vallabha Deva instinctively realised that he had found the ultimate solution.

It was then that Vishnu Chittar was conferred the title of ‘Bhattar Piran’ by Raja Simhan I (Vallabha Deva) with the king ordering a royal procession for Vishnu Chittar to be taken around the streets of Madurai. 

                                  

When Vishnu Chittar heard dissenting voices from his detractors asking him if he could show the Lord, Bhattar Piran, once again, invoked the blessings of Lord Koodal Azhagar. And shortly after, much to the delight of everyone there, Koodal Azhagar, appeared on his Garuda Vahana from above the Ashtanga Vimana along with Goddess Lakshmi.Worried that evil eyes should not fall on this beautiful Lord, Vishnu Chittar falling into a trance, showered verses of praise expressing concern for the Lord’s safety using the bell tied to the elephant as his Thaalam.

பேர் அணிந்த வில்லிபுத்தூர் ஆணி தன்னில்

 பெருந் ஜோதி தனில் தோன்றும் பெருமானே

முன் சீர் அணிந்த பாண்டியன் தன் நெஞ்சு தன்னில்

துயக்கற மால் பருத்து வத்தை திருமாசெப்பி

வானர மேல் மதுரை வளம் வரவே

வானில் கருட வாகனமாய்த் தோன்ற

வாழ்த்தும் ஈரணி  பல்லாண்டு முதல் பாட்டு

நானூற்று எழுவத்து ஒன்று இரண்டும் எனக்கு உதவு நீயே – Vedanta Desikar's praise of Periyazhvaar's Royal Procession

A beautiful alankaram

The devotees watched in awe the beautiful decoration of the Lord and even found a happy smile on his face as the priest moved the swing in a slow manner. Devotees, who also gathered in good numbers from the North, were particularly curious about the Muthu Kondai and posed queries about its significance.

Shortage of Vedic Scholars at this Divya Desam

While in the century gone by, there were Vedic Scholars presenting the Vedas during this utsavam, it is now left to the priests themselves to present the Vedas during the Oonjal. Following the Thiru Aradhanam, Balaji Bhattar along with his brother also doubled up as the Vedic Scholars to recite the Vedas.

By this time, the devotee crowd had gathered steam and they lined up the two sides of the Oonjal for the presentation of Theertham, Shatari and Prasadam. 

Shortly after 8.30pm, the Sripatham were back at the Oonjal to carry the Lord back to his abode bringing to end day one of the rather simple Oonjal Utsavam at this historical Divya Desam.