Brahmmadesam Kailasanathar Koil

Pancha Lingam Kshetram

The largest temple in the region has the most exquisite stone sculptures

The Gurukal has single handedly revived the historical Theppotsavam though the Brahmotsavam has not taken place for four decades

A single archaka has been managing the huge temple all alone at just a three digit salary 

Referred to as Raja Raja Chaturvedi Mangalam, Brahmma Desam was historically renowned for Vedic Scholars reciting the four Vedas through the day. There was such vibrancy in the region brought about by this nonstop chanting that Raja Raja Chozha donated the entire temple town to the Vedic Scholars so they could focus on the recital. Till very recently, Vedic Education and Recital was an integral part of Brahmma Desam. Rig Veda was initiated to students and only the dwindling interest and moving away of the traditionalists away from such remote locations prompted the conversion of the Vedic school to an academic school on the South Street a couple of decades back.

The temple town referred to as Ayaneeswaram signifying the presence of Brahmma and Shiva at the temple is home to Kailasanathar and Brihantha Nayaki. Reference to Ayaneeswaram is made in the 8 song of the 6^th Thirumurai Adaivu Thiruthandagam.

Located 4kms  East of Mannar Koil (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/11/kulasekara-perumal-koil-in-mannar-koil.html) off the Mukoodal Highway, the huge 2000 year old temple is surrounded by lush green paddy fields, banana plantations and coconut groves. The Gadana River runs right near the temple from South to North. The towering 7 Tier Raja Gopuram at the Eastern Entrance casts its shadow on the big temple tank, just North of the tower.  

Legend has it that Brahmma came here, created the Theertham, had bath and undertook penance repenting for his sin of having insulted Lord Shiva in Dakshana’s Yagna.  Brahmma’s grandson Romasa Rishi too performed pooja at this place.

Pancha Lingam Kshetram

The temple is unique in that there are five Separate Sannidhis for Lord (and Ambal) with a separate Vimanam and Nandi. These include Kasi Viswanathar and Visalakshi, Annamalaiyar and Unnamulai Ammai, Madurai Meenakshi and Sundareswarar, Ilaintha Adi Nathar and the Moolavar of this temple Kailasanathar, flanked by Brihandha Nayaki in a separate sannidhi. Hence this is referred to as Pancha Lingam Kshetram.

Ilanthai Adi Nathar (Badarivaneswarar), a Swayambu idol, is the original deity at this temple. One finds an Ilanthai tree as the Sthala Vriksham.

This is the birth place of the second Acharya of Kanchi Mutt Sarvagna Atmendra Saraswathi Swami.

Architectural Glory

The Cheras and Chozhas created one of the most incredible pieces of sculptures at this temple. Credit goes to the Pandyas for the construction of all the Mandapams, while the towering Raja Gopurams and the huge outer walls were built by the Nayaks.

Exquisite unseen Sculptures

The temples along the entire Tamaraibarani stretch have exquisite stone sculptures as exemplified by the ones in Srivaikuntam and Krishnapuram, among others. At the Kailasanathar temple in Brahmmadesam, the Cheras created  sculptures that will remain etched in one’s memory for ever.

The Bikshaada Nathar Sabha is a distinctive Sannidhi where one finds one of a kind of images not found in any other temple in Tamil Nadu. The seven feet tall Lord Shiva presents himself as Bikshaada Nathar without a peedam standing tall like a human being. He is seen with a Bhootham Vadhyam in a typical posture of going out for Bikshai.

Around him are carvings of Brahmma, Vishnu, Muruga, Pillayar, Ashta Dhik Baalakars, Surya, Chandra, Kinnarar, Kim Purushar, Agastyar, all seen in their respective Vahanas offering worship to Bikshaada Nathar. Seen above the Lord are two Apsara Kannis sculpted on a single stone, yet another marvelous piece. Below the Lord are three Apsaras in three different postures including one in a Sayana Kolam.

‘Punugu’ Nataraja

Yet another special feature at this temple is the presence of Lord Nataraja with Sivagami, Karaikal Ammayar and Pathanjali Vyaakra Paatha Muni. In centuries gone by, the Lord was provided a grand Punugu bath once a year on the eve of Margazhi Thiruvathirai and was referred to as ‘Punugu Sabaapathi’. But in recent decades, given the financial state of the temple, the Lord is given a sandal pasting on that day and remains so through till the next Margazhi. 

In the outer prakaram, one finds a separate sannidhi for Brahmma and Indra. Being a ‘Brahmma’ Desam, there is also a separate Sannidhi for Saraswathi with a Vimanam.

Right next to this on the pathway is a Lotus Petal in stone. It is the only from this location can one see all the three Raja Gopurams and the seven Vimanams.

The stone roof near the Eastern Raja Gopuram is yet another feature at this temple. While this is similar to structures seen in temples in Kerala, this one is fully in stone.

Dakshina Murthy is seen with a folded right leg and the left leg placed down, in contrast to the usual posture of the right leg being down.

Koorma Aasana – Soma Vaara Mandapam

Out of the five Aasanaas of the Lord, the one at this temple is in the form of Koorma Aasana. This exclusive piece of architecture is seen at the Soma Vaara Mandapam near the Ambal Sannidhi with the mandapa built atop Koorma. It is here that historically music and dance festivals used to be organized. Lined up on the row of pillars in this stretch are historical characters including those of Duryodhana, Yudhistira and Bheema, in addition to those from the Ramayana. 

Huge Nandikeswarar on Stone

The Nandi near the Kodi Maram, the biggest in the region and sculpted on a single stone, is another example of the outstanding architecture seen inside the temple. He is seen with a bell, jewels and anklets. The posture is similar to that a cow in a sitting posture.

War Time Invocation by the Kings

During war time, the kings used to visit the temple to invoke the blessings of Naalayirathamman (Sahasrambikai), a Kaali Roopam and they would return to the temple in a thanking gesture at the end of the war. In memory of this historical event, a grand ‘Thiru Kudai’ Thiruvizha in Thai was part of the temple’s annual festival calendar, this one strung together by different communities in the temple town. This too has come to a halt in recent decades. The moolavar idol of Naalayirathamman is on the banks of the Gadaga river in a separate temple dedicated to her.

Brahmotsavam- A thing of the Past?

Historically, the 10^th day of the Brahmotsavam on Panguni Uthiram saw a procession of Lord Kailasanathar on a Rishaba Vahana with Brihandha Nayaki around the streets of Brahmma Desam, the largest temple in the Ambasamudram region after celebration of the Theerthavari Utsavam in the morning. For centuries, this was the grandest of the festivals at this temple. But for almost half a century, the Brahmotsavam has become a ‘festival of the past’. And this in a temple that is the largest in the region with three towering Gopurams and seven Vimanams, has the most exquisite stone sculptures and was once a War Temple offering protection to the people.

Revival of Panguni Hastham Theppotsavam

The Theppotsavam was celebrated on Hastham, the day after Panguni Uthiram and on the 11^th day of the Brahmotsavam. Thanks to the efforts of Raj Kumar Bhattar, who took over from his father a decade ago, the theppotsavam has now been revived in all its ancient glory. With the help of donors, the entire tank was refurbished over a two month period a few years back. 

For the last three years, the theppotsavam has been conducted following the full agama (the temple follows Kaamiga Agamas – one of the 28 agamas) ritual including performing the homam on the Hastham day. Melam, Vedic Chants, recital of Thirumurai, Bharatanatyam and procession around the Ratha Veethi are now part of the Theppotsavam celebrations.

There was a Chariot Festival too around the Ratha Veethi but with the Brahmotsavam having come to a halt, the Chariot has remained in a dilapidated condition at the far Eastern end of the Sannidhi Street.

To this day, one finds the ancient Vasantha Mandapam, where Vasanthotsavam was once celebrated in a grand manner.

The Gurukal has revived celebrations of occasions such as Pradhosham, Thei Pirai Ashtami Pooja, Chitrai Visu, four time pooja on Sivarathri and Margazhi Thiruvathirai. He has begun a Vilakku Pooja in the evening on the first day of the Tamil month.

Huge Granite Stones for Lord’s Pandal

An interesting facet of the Utsavams was that there were big granite stones to the North of the Eastern Raja Gopuram on which big Pandal was placed during big festive occasions for the Lord would take shelter beneath this at the start of processions.

100 Pillar Mandapam  

The 100 pillared mandapam at the Eastern entrance is probably the best depiction of the architectural greatness of the times gone by with each pillar showcasing the skills of the artisans. In one of the pillars is depicted the fight between Vaali and Sugreeva. A couple of rows way is one of Rama standing in a posture of striking the arrow in the direction of Vaali. What is amazing is that one is able to see the fighters from Rama’s pillar but one is not able to sight Rama from the ‘fighting’ pillar, truly symbolic of the hidden state of Rama in that episode. No pillar has been moved or is out of place to create this hidden state of Rama.

A War Temple – Blocking an Elephant

In those early centuries, this was a war temple. People from the entire region used to take shelter within the temple when the war broke out and the huge temple door at the Eastern Raja Gopuram was shut. The opposition used the elephant force to try to break open the door but failed as the entire door was filled with sharp edged nails that caused the elephant to bleed each time it tried to push the door. 

The outer walls too were built in such a way that local forces could watch the movements of the opposition warriors. The towering Raja Gopuram was also used as a ‘weapon’ to identify the whereabouts of the opposition troupe.

Where the Paddy was ground

Just outside the temple at the Eastern Entrance is the Nellu Kuthu Thirai, an area where paddy was ground and later presented to the Lord. This was also the zone where paddy was stored to serve the entire village during floods, famines and during war time. Unfortunately over the last half a century since the arrival of the HR & CE in its full steam, the paddy inflow into the temple from the lands belonging to the temple has completely stopped both for the Lord and the temple personnel.

Meagre income for the Gurukal

This story is being written on a day when the petition for reasonable salary for priests is coming up in the Madurai High Court, a case filed by the Head Archakar of Rajagopalaswaamy Kulasekara Azhvaar temple in Mannar Koil, just a few kms from Brahmmadesam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/04/mannar-koil-bhattar-priest-salary-case.html). 

The Brahmmadesam temple is no different in this regard. 

Raj Kumar Gurukal joined the temple a decade ago at a monthly salary of Rs. 215 which has since been doubled to Rs. 500. His father N Kulathu Bhattar performed pooja at the temple for over four decades, first at a salary of Rs. 65 per month and then later at Rs. 165.  It has generally been a huge struggle to sustain themselves with the HR and CE citing the lack of income at the temple as a reason for the ridiculously meager salary to the archaka who is now managing the huge temple all alone without any support. 

While there were a dozen people at the temple till the 1980s, he has only the ‘Pala Velai’ person, who himself is paid only Rs. 300 per month, as the only companion at the temple over the last decade.

Unflinching Devotion to the Lord
During his over four decades service at the temple, his father used to bring water from the well each day for abhisekam at each of the Sannidhis. In the early part of the 20^th Century, his grandfather Natesa Bhattar would walk all the way to the river to bring water for Abhishekam, such was his devotional commitment.

Revival of the Brahmmotsavam is a distant dream given the current working of the HR & CE though Raj Kumar Bhattar is hopeful he will be able to achieve this in his life time. As a precursor, he has brought back into great shape most of the historical Vahanas that were once used for the Brahmotsavam purapadu.

                 Koorma Aasana - Soma Vaara Mandapam

Repair Works at the temple
It is almost 15years since the previous Kumbabhisekam. There are cracks on the Eastern Raja Gopuram. The ASI has inspected and cleared the repair works to be undertaken to fix the cracks. Several of the beautiful sculptures on the Raja Gopuram need immediate repair works. But as has been with so many ancient temples, the temple is awaiting approval from the HR & CE headquarters. As is happening in several other temples, the inordinate delay in the approval process is creating frustration among donors.

It is easily the biggest temple in the region with three Raja Gopurams and Seven Vimanams. The entire temple is managed by a single archakar who works at a miniscule Rs. 500 a month salary. It is hoped that sometime in the near future, HR & CE will take steps to staff such ancient temples adequately and compensate the archakas and other temple personnel appropriately so they can carry out their duties without the financial worry.

Temple Time

The Temple is open between 730am and 10am in the morning and between 530pm and 730pm in the evening. Contact: Raj Kumar Bhattar @ 94428 94094.

How to reach

Auto from Ambai Bus Stand to the temple will cost Rs. 70. Local town buses every half hour from Ambai Bus Stand.