Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Madurantakam Eri Kaatha Raamar

Kothanda Raamar is seen holding the hand of Sita
Located about 80kms South of Madras on the Madras-Tiruchirapalli Grand Southern Trunk (GST) Road is the Kothandaraamar(Eri Kaatha Raamar) Temple in Madurantakam. This place was once referred to as Vakularanya Kshetram (this place is believed to have been full of Maghizham flowers- Vakulam= Maghizham flowers. Hence the name.). 
The story- Raama visiting this place Vibandaka Maharishi’s son Rishya Singar was the one who helped King Dasharatha conduct the Putra Kameshti Yaagam which resulted in the birth of Raama. In his search for Sita, Rama and Lakshmana reached Vibandaka Maharishi’s ashram here in Madurantakam. It is believed that the Rishi reassured Raama that he will locate Sita and wanted him to visit this place and provide Darshan along with Sita. After having defeated Ravana, Rama comes back with Sita on the Pushpaka Vimaanam showing her, on the way, all the places that he had been to in search of her. On reaching Nyana Giri Parvatham, he was reminded of his promise to Vibandaka Rishi. To fulfil this commitment, he is said to have landed here in the Pushpaka Vimanam and given darshan to Vibandaka Rishi along with Sita and Lakshmana. No Hanuman inside the temple A unique feature at this temple is the absence of Hanuman inside the temple. As Raama had sent Hanuman as a messenger to inform Bharata that he was on his way and did not come along with Raama in the Pushpaka Vimaanam, Hanuman is not seen inside the temple. It is also believed that having given the idol of Lord Ranganatha to the new Lankan king Vibeeshana, Raama, the king of Ayodhya, is said to have invoked the blessings of Karunakara Perumal and that he was the pooja deity of Raama. Karunakara Perumal The Name-Eri Kaatha Raamar Just over a couple of centuries ago, in 1798, the people of Madurantakam sought the help of the then British Collector at Chengalpet Lionel Blaze to protect the temple from the floods that would strike the town every year, resulting in the breach of the tank bund, thus ravaging the villages and the crop. The collector, who found some granite stones behind the temple, suggested that these be used to prevent the breach. In the argument that followed, he was told that these stones were to be used for the construction of the Sannidhi for the Goddess inside the Kothandarama temple. Not pleased with this answer, the General questioned as to why their favourite Lord could not protect this place. Reacting to this, the people of Madurantakam performed Vishnu Sahasranama Parayanam seeking Lord Raama’s help. With the rains belting down and the lake close to its brim, the Collecter visited Madurantakam once again and this time is believed to have camped here on the night that the tank bud was expected to breach and lash out into the temple and the entire town. What he saw that night was a miraculous event. Amidst the flash of lightening, he saw two people in the lake holding a bow (and arrow). The next morning, to everyone’s surprise, there was no breach and everything was normal. A delighted collector is said to have immediately allocated 10000 Pagodas for the construction of the Thaayar Sannidhi and a bridge across the lake, just behind the temple. As Lord Raama is believed to have protected this place from the bursting of the lake bud, this place is called ‘Eri Kaatha Raamar’. The meeting of Ramanuja with Periya Nambi Ramanuja, coming from Kanchipuram, met with his Acharya Periya Nambi, sent by Lord Ranganatha to bring Ramanuja to Srirangam, at this temple below the Makila tree and Pancha Samskaram took place here. Amongst Ashtaacharam, Dwayam and Saramaslokam, Ramanuja is said to have been specifically initiated with the ‘Dwayam’ manthiram here. Hence, this place is also called ‘Dwayam Valaintha Tirupathi’. Rama Navami Celebrations – The Lord in 5 different attires  
On the Rama Navami day, Raama provides darshan in five different attires- ‘Lord with a Plait’, ‘Ekaantha Vastram’, ‘ThiruAabarana Alankaaram’, ‘Vaira Mudi Sevai’ and ‘Muthu Kondai’. 
  Parivettai Utsavam  
 Once a year, on the 3rd day of the Tamil Calendar month of Thai (mid January to mid February) on the occasion of Parivettai Utsavam, Karunakara Perumal goes on a procession to Nyana Giri Parvatham, the hill where Raama is believed to have descended on his Pushpaka Vimaanam. 
History This temple is believed to be about 1500 years old. Uthama Chozhan, the ancestor of the great Chozha king Raja Raja Chozhan, is said to have played a role in the construction of this temple and is believed to have dedicated and given this temple to those learned Vedic Scholars (Vedham Othum Anthanar). Later, Pandya and Naayak kings are said to have helped in the renovation and contributed to the improvement of the temple. Naayaks are believed to have constructed the Raja Gopuram that is seen today.

Ahobila Mutt Educational Institution Outside the Eri Kaatha Raamar temple is a six decade old Oriental high school run by Ahobila Mutt with hostel facilities. Started in 1950, the school runs classes from 6th to 10th standard with Sanskrit as the first language. The Ahobila Mutt also runs, entirely free of cost for the students, a 7 year Vedic Education class, a 5 year class to learn Divya Prabhandham and a 5 year Shiromani class (equivalent to MA). The school currently has around 150 students, who have come from across Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.

Quick Facts
Moolavar : Kothanda Raamar(Kalyana Raamar) with a bow in Hand, East Facing Standing Posture Goddess : Janaka Valli Thaayar Utsavar : 1. Karunakara Perumal 2. Raama 
 Temple Time : 730am-12noon and 430pm-830pm 
 Contact :AT Madhavan/ R Vijayaraghavan/V Vijayaraghavan/ V Varadhan Bhattar @ 97916 60150 ( Rangarajan Bhattar @98429 09880 or 93814 82008- quit)  
Address : Lord Kothanda Raamar Temple, Madurantakam- 603 306 Festival : Sri Raama Navami in Panguni, 15 day Brahmotsavam in Aani,Bashyakaarar Jayanthi in Chitrai  
How to reach Madurantakam 
Buses every 5-10mts between Madras (Chennai) and Tindivanam/Villipuram/Trichy By Train One may also take the Sub-Urban train to Chengalpet and then a 30 minute bus drive to Madurantakam (25kms from Chengalpet)is a good option. By Car With the 6 laning of the Chennai-Trichy highway, one can reach Madurantakam from Chennai in an hour and half by car

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Kalyanapuram Srinivasa Perumal

A Temple that finds a reference in a historical scripture relating to Kandiyur Divya Desam

Located in a serene location about 10kms North of Thanjavur and 2kms South of Thiruvayaru is the temple of Lord Srinivasa in Kalyanapuram, one that dates back a 1000 years or so. One finds reference to this temple in the verse relating to Kandiyur Divya Desam which is about 2 kms South of Kalyanapuram. This place was once referred to as the Srinivasa Kshetram.

“Cauverya….Dakshinney Subhataayakey…….
Siddhi Kshetrothrarey….. Nairudhyaam Sangama….
Srinivasya Vaayavye Kandan Kshetramuthamam.”

Centuries ago, the direction to this temple, was given as 4miles North of Vannar Banks, South West of Aaduthurai Perumal Divya Desam and East of Srirangam.

Talking about the historical importance of Kalyanapuram, Thirumeiyam Shri. S. Satyamurthy, who has been here for the last 6 decades says, “Shivaji Nayakkar, who was ruling Thanjavur, took a trip to Kasi and was quite impressed with the surroundings there around the Ganges. He came back and built bridges across the five famous rivers between Thanjavur and Thiruvayaru. This serene place- Srinivasa Kshetram- was dedicated to his wife Kalyani Bai and this became the hub of educational and vedic learning. This place came to be called Kalyanipuram after her name, and over time became Kalyanapuram.”

One can find inscriptions relating to the construction in the old river bridge on the Thanjavur Thiruvayaru road.

*River Cauvery splits into 5 small rivers and the sight of these rivers, amidst greenery, is beautiful to watch and experience

Quick Facts
Deity : Srinivasa Perumal, Standing Posture East facing
Goddess : Alarmel Mangai Thaayar

Contact : Prasanna Bhattar @ 94424 21029 or S. Sathya Murthy @ 04362 262903

Timing : 730am-1030am and 530pm-8pm

Festivals: Garuda Sevai and Praarthanai Kalyana Utsavam are very special here.

How to reach Kalyanapuram
Local buses every 5-10minutes between Thanjavur and Thiruvayaru. One can also take the bus between Thanjavur and Ariyalur to get down at Kalyanapuram

Auto will charge Rs.100-120/- from Thanjavur Railway Station/Old Bus Stand

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Train Travel- A unique occurrence

A code that technology has not cracked or atleast Indian Railways has not cracked.


November 1 marks a revision in the timings of trains down South(Chennai Egmore to Kanniyakumari).

Technology has been a great enabler in terms of online train ticket booking. However, technology today proved that manual intervention still plays a role in life.

Here goes the story:

Salem-Chennai Express(Train No. 2298) leaves Salem at 21.40, arrives in Vriddachalam at 00.05hours and departs at 00.15 hours.(as per current timings).

Beginning November 1, this train will leave Salem at 21.00 and arrive at Vriddachalam Junction at 23.30 and depart at 23.40

Those who want to travel by this train(Train No. 2298) from Vriddachalam to Chennai on Friday night/Saturday morning (31st Oct night/ 1st November morning) will be in for a rude shock. The online portal(irctc.co.in) does not show the existence of this train!!!

Yes, Why so??

Because in possibly one of a kind occurrence, Train No. 2298(Salem Chennai Exp) halts twice on November 1 at Vriddachalam Junction.

The train that leaves Salem on 31st Oct at 940pm halts at Vriddachalam at 0.05hours on November 1(just after mid night) and Train that leaves Salem on 1st November evening at 9pm(after revised timing from Nov 1) halts at Vriddachalam at 23.30.

Hence, on November 1, the train No. 2298 halts there twice- first at 0.05hours and later that night at 23.30 hours.

The online portal as well as all the computer terminals recognise only the train that leaves Vriddachalam at 23.30. (i.e the train that leaves Salem on Nov 1 night at 9pm and not the train that leaves Salem on October 31 at 940pm)

Hence if you want to book a ticket from Vriddachalam to Chennai on 31st night/1st morning, you will not be able to book through online or through any of the computer reservation terminals.

You would have to do a manual booking – but that booking will be from Chinna Salem to Chennai Egmore because the train halts at Chinna Salem on 31st night at around 10pm.

Since technology recognises only one halt for a train number on a given day, two halts for the same train at the same station on the same day is a code that technology has still not cracked!!!

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Sunil Gavaskar Role Model Cricketer for Next Gen

Rajdeep Sardesai’s 'Gavaskar as a Role Model' interview
36 runs in 60 overs, calls back opening partner, drops Kapil, bats Left Handed, refuses to call off the game till his century
October 2008:

One would have hoped for some new insights from Rajdeep Sardesai’s interview with Sunil(Gavaskar) and Sachin(Tendulkar) but it turned out to be a damp squib. Guess it was meant to be a ‘positive hype’ interview of the two legends of Indian cricket and the aim was not to provide any fresh perspective into the cricketing lives of Sachin and Sunil. In fact, it turned out to be truly disappointing with the two players exchanging compliments.

Could not Rajdeep have asked them to select one other player instead of making it a ‘complimentary session’ for each other. It also seemed Rajdeep had not done enough research into the cricketing lives of the two or may be this interview was not meant for that.

Yesterday’s interview led me to ask if Gavaskar of the 1970s and 1980s was a role model for the next generation, as was kind of positioned in the interview( or may be he was a role model to emulate in terms of the number of runs he scored...but is 'Role Model' defined by the batting or bowling contribution alone) - Yes he did score runs and in tons and thousands. And no denying his great contribution in the number of runs he made, the quality of those runs, the soundest of techniques seen for an Indian opener, his almost flawless catching at first slip and his captaincy.
But was he a role model outside of the runs he made. Read the following:

1. In 1975, when India was chasing 300 plus in 60overs against England in the first World Cup under Venkataraghavan’s captaincy, Gavaskar scored 36 Not Out in 60 overs!!! Is that the mark of a role model- a team player?

2. In 1980-81, he forced his opening partner CPS Chauhan to walk off after being given out LBW to Dennis Lillee in a test in Australia. Was Australia’s biased umpiring in those days and/or Lillee’s provocation (if any) a justifiable reason for the world’s greatest opener to force his partner to walk off the ground in a Test Match!!!

3. In a domestic Ranji Trophy match in the early 1980s and a prestigious and high profile match at that (Bombay v Karnataka was one of the best duels in those days in domestic cricket), Gavaskar shocked one and all deciding to bat left handed, all of a sudden, leaving every one bewildered including the umpires!!! Is this a role model story???

4. In the mid 1980s, Gavaskar captaining India against the touring Zaheer Abbas’s Pakistan refused to agree to an early finish on the final evening when there was no chance of a result(other than a draw)- Reason….. Gavaskar was close to a century!!!! Zaheer protested….but ultimately match had to continue(because match could be called off only if mutually agreed by the two captains) and Gavaskar completed his century….Role Model????

5. Gavaskar dropped Kapil Dev from a test match for that one rash shot (which supposedly cost India the match) against England to teach Kapil a lesson and to make him more responsible….. Role Model!!! For someone who played 60 overs and scored 36 runs, any one playing a shot would be a villain…

While Rajdeep’s interview may have been a platform to showcase the greatness of these two great Indian cricketers and to that end I think it served its purpose, I wish he had brought out the darker or tougher moments of these two great cricketers and asked as to how they handled those days.

Rajdeep also spoke about the two legends making runs against the toughest of opponents and asked if they moved a notch up playing against tougher opponents. Good line of thought….(Gavaskar against the West Indies and Tendulkar against Australia, but what about Gavaskar’s repeated failures in Australia when his team needed him the most)

For example, what was the dressing room scenario on the evening after Gavaskar batted 60overs for 36 runs or did he ever regret asking his helpless opening partner to walk off in that test in Australia in an embarrassing moment for Indian cricket.

GRV's Role Model call back of Bob Taylor
There is no doubting that Gavaskar was the greatest opening bat of his generation and he thwarted many a new ball attack (and some of the best ones at that- yes Marshall, Roberts, Holding, Imran Khan and others…) in his fearless style in the non-helmet days. However, he was no role model. 

GRV recalling Bob Taylor in the Golden Jubilee test of 1980 was closer to a ‘Role Model’ scenario in what was once called a ‘Gentleman’s game’.

Friday, October 24, 2008

Darasuram Airavateswarar Temple

Chozha's 'Wonder Work on Stone'

This 12th Century AD Airavateswarar Temple in Darasuram (originally called Raja Rajeswaram) was the third in the series of temples built by the great Chozha Kings of that time.

While the 10th Century AD Thanjavur’s Brihadeeswarar temple, built by Raja Raja Chozha 1 is known for its tall tower, covers a huge area and symbolises bigness (hence called the Big Temple/Periya Koil), Darasuram’s Airavateswarar temple,built by Raja Raja Chozhan II,is a marvel and a standing example of the architectural expertise and 'work on stone' of the Chozha kings. The Jagannath Puri temple in Konark is believed to have taken inspiration from Darasuram’s architectural master piece.

The Name
The lingam is believed to have been worshipped by Indra’s white elephant (Airavatham) and hence the name ‘Airavateswarar’.

The Story
The Lord of Death, Yama, once incurred the wrath of a rishi and was cursed to have burning sensation all over his body. Yama is said to have visited this temple and invoked the blessings of Lord Airavateswarar by bathing in the temple tank. Pleased with his prayers, Airavateswarar is said to have liberated Yama from his curse.

Architecture
While being smaller in size, Darasuram’s Airavateswarar temple is easily the most artistic piece of construction among the four grand temples constructed by the Chozhas- Thanjavur’s Big Temple, Gangai Konda Cholapuram (North of Kumbakonam on the Sethia Thope-Vadalur-Neyveli Highway) and Thirubhuvanam (East of Kumbakonam enroute to Mayavaram).

Chariot Shaped Main Mandapam
The main Raja Gambira Mandapam is in the form of a chariot driven by Horses(Chariot Mandapam) - Eastern side and Western side. Inside this are 108 pillars, each one with exquisite sculptures depicting a historical event or a dancing moment- Shiva’s marriage attended by Vishnu and Brahmma, the entire sequence of Murugan Kalyanam, Saraswathi in Yoga Posture, Kannappa Nayanar, Annapoorani-with sharp nails that has been crafted beautifully, miniature forms of Pillayar, Shiva, Parvathi, Murugan.

While on the eastern side of the mandapam, one finds Saraswathi with a closed lotus (symbolic of the rising sun) and as one moves on to the western side one finds the depiction of Saraswathi with an open lotus (symbolic of the Sun having moved on to the west). On the upper walls of the Raja Gambira Mandapam, there are some drawings- of demons and birds, a large portion of which has lost its form and one finds only sketches.

Periya Puranam
Periya Puranam, a poetic account of the lives of the 63 Nayanmars, is depicted in a miniature form through 17th century vegetable colour paintings.

Some of the interesting and distinctive sculptures that stand out are Arthanareeswarar (half Shiva-half Shakthi) at the Eastern Entrance, Arjuna’s Penance, Agastyar and Naga Raja (Snake Lord) and Rathi-Manmatha story on the Southern side.


Chopped off Nandi’s head

On the Southern side of the temple, one finds a line of lamp posts on the ground. Lamps were believed to have been placed on top every evening. Along side the stretch of lamp posts are sculptures of Nandi, whose heads have been knocked off (I will stay away from the details relating to this rather treacherous act but one can guess as to who chopped off the head and during whose assaults at the Airavateswarar temple!!!!)

Yaali

At the Thirumaligai Mandapam, on the North Western side of the temple, one is welcomed by a beautiful depiction of Yaali, the mythological animal- Single body in 5 forms- Elephant’s tusk, Lion’s body, Goat’s horns, Pig’s ears and the tail of a cow. One can only wonder at the minute detailing of the sculptor and the effort that must have gone into this depiction.

A hiding Rama striking Vali in the Sugreeva-Vali fight is another interesting artistic work seen at the Thiru Maligai Mandapam.

Ball Dance of 12th Century AD
If one thought that ball dance was a recent invention, one would have to go back and look at this 12th Century AD sculpture.

Some of the artistic work that keeps you hooked on to the Northern side of the tower are Durgai, Mahisaasura Mardhini, Raavana on Mount Kailasa, Bairavar, a flute playing Radha Krishna and Dhanvantri. Across the entire stretch, there are also several carvings of ladies exhibiting their gymnastic skills.

On the North Eastern side, there is depiction of Vishnu playing drums in the Nataraja Dance Mandapam.

As one gets inside the Raja Gambira Mandapam and on way to the sanctum of Iravateswarar, one finds the pillars that are very simplistic and without any artistic work, reason being that one should not be distracted while praying to the Lord.
Wild Bull and an Elephant


A distinctive feature-Construction of the temple – Chozhas v Nayaks
While the base of the temple was built by the Chozhas, as can be seen from the granite construction, the top portion/structure was renovated by the Nayak Kings as can be seen from the mixture of the construction materials used- Gun Powder and Red Bricks.

The main Eastern entrance to the temple remains a Mottai Gopuram(no tower). Interestingly and not to be seen elsewhere, the Amman Sannidhi is in a separate temple just next to and North of the Airavateswarar temple.

Not to miss when at Darasuram
Beautiful Silk Sarees on the street opposite the Amman temple

How to reach Darasuram
Darasuram is about 3kms South West of Kumbakonam off the Thanjavur Highway.
Rock Fort Express from Chennai/ Mysore Mayiladuthurai Express from Bangalore to Kumbakonam. State Transport buses every 5 minutes from Trichy/Thanjavur to Kumbakonam.

Auto to Darasuram temple costs about Rs. 75/- from the Railway Station/ Bus Stand

There is a registered guide (Chinnadurai) at the temple to take visitors around the temple(He has been around since 1970).

Vada Madurai Soundararaja Perumal

The Northern Boundary of the Pandya Kingdom 

Located about 16 kms North of Dindigul off the Dindigul- Trichy National Highway, Vada Madurai was once the Northern border of the Pandya Kingdom called 'Vidaathi'.

 
After the fall of Madurai, people spread out and settled in different places. One Group is said to have come to Vada Madurai. These people, who could not go to Madurai every day to pray to the deity there, built a temple here so they could invoke (the blessings of) the Lord in their own place. As a symbol of ‘beauty’, they built a Krishna temple here and named it as Soundara Raja Perumal. Kumbabhishekam took place in 2006.

.  
Quick Facts 
Deity: Soundara Raja Perumal 
Goddess: Soundara Valli Thaayar(Separate Sannidhi) 
Temple timing: 6am-12noon and 4pm-830pm 
 Festivals: 13 day Aadi Festival 
 Priest: Devaraj Bhattar/ Krishnamurthy Bhattar 
 Contact: 9944068919 / 04551 238944/ 238781(call for the priest in this number)

How to reach Vada Madurai
Buses every 5 minutes from Dindigul(Trichy bound buses) A couple of passenger trains from Madurai and Dindigul stop at Vada Madurai station.

Friday, October 17, 2008

Thadi Kombu Soundararaja Perumal

The Northern House of Maaliruncholai Azhagar 
A Prarthana Sthalam to overcome various problems in life
Located 8kms North West of Dindigul on NH7 (Dindigul-Karur-Salem Highway) is the  1000years old Soundararaja Perumal temple in Thaadi Kombu.This place was once referred to as  Thaalai Vana Kshetram (reference to the number of palm groves surrounding the Soundararajan temple). With the congregation of a huge Telugu population in this area, over time, this region came to be renamed as Thaadi Kombu (the place of palm trees).

The Legend
Having been turned into a frog, Manduga Rishi was undertaking penance here on the banks of Kumba River to relieve himself of his sins. Attacked by Asura Thalasuran, Manduga Rishi sought the help of Lord Soundararajan of Azhagar Koil who answered the Rishi’s prayers by killing the Asura.

A happy Manduga Rishi who got back his human form requested the Lord to provide darshan to everyone in the same form here at this place. As the Lord acceded to his request, this temple is said to be the Northern Home of Maaliruncholai Azhgar.

Solution to various problems
The temple is special as it houses in the same complex Lords who provide solutions to different problems. This is the only temple to house Goddess Saraswathi and Lord Hayagriva in the same sannidhi.

A Special Pooja is performed at the Dhanvantri Sannidhi on No Moon day to relieve one of any health problems. A visit to the Lakshmi Narasimha Sannidhi on full moon day is said to help solve finance related issues.

Special Pooja on Thursdays at the Rathi- Manmatha Sannidhi relieves couples of problems in their married life. A pooja during Rahu Kaalam on Sunday at the Swarna Aakarshana Bairavar Sannidhi helps one recover from financial losses and bad debts.

Sculptures
A big feature at this temple is the beautifully crafted sculptures on the Southern side of the temple similar to the one at Krishnapuram near Tirunelveli - 14 in all including Anjaneya carrying Rama on his shoulder, Vaikuntanathan sleeping atop Adhiseshan, Maha Vishnu mounted on Garuda, Battle with Hiranya and ‘Hiranya Samhaaram’ - quite a difficult one to carve.  There are also 7 musical pillars at the temple. Another unique feature is the presence of a standing Pillayar and Vishnu Durgai. 

The temple was renovated by the Vijayanagar kings, Achudeva Raya and his brother Ramadeva Raya in the 16th Century AD. Thirumalai Nayakar was responsible for the exquisite sculptures. One finds reference to the Northern House at Thaadi Kombu in inscriptions relating to Pandya kings who ruled Madurai in the 9th-12th Century AD,  an indication that this temple dates back to a time prior to that period and is well over a 1000 years old.

Inscription within the temple makes this reference - 
“……சுந்தர பாண்டிய மண்டபதிலே நானும் நம் பெண்டுகளும்
மூலகமா இறுகலில்
நமக்கு வடக்கு வீடான
திருமலை தாடி கொம்பு அழகர் 
….”

Capital of Dindigul
The British who captured Dindigul in 1801 made Thaadi Kombu the first capital of Dindigul.

Quick Facts
Moolavar   : Soundararajan East Facing Standing Posture
Goddess    : Kalyana Soundara Valli Thaayar
Time          :7am-12noon and 430pm-830pm. 
Contact      : Badri Jagannathan Bhattar @ 98655 37340 / Rajappa Bhattar @ 94420 30304 /
                    Ramamoorthy @94865 01122
Office       : EO Kathiresan @98655 35788 / 0451 2557232

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Veerapandiya Kattabomman

It was on this day, in 1799, that one of our earliest freedom fighters Veerapandiyan was hanged from a tree in Kayathar

209 years after that fateful day (16th October 1799) that saw one of the earliest and arguably the most inspirational freedom fighters of our state Veerapandiya Kattabomman hanged from a tamarind tree in the British Camp at Kayathar, West of Panchalankuruchi, what remains is just a memorial of Kattabomman inside a small rebuilt fort.

Panchalankurunchi wears a deserted look with only a few tea stalls in the vicinity. Bus services are infrequent and visitors to the fort only seasonal, mostly school students and foreign tourists!!!!

It is a matter of shame that the man who fought a heroic battle against the British and could only be captured because of traitors from neighbouring kingdoms (Ettayapuram/Pudukottai) and who was to be an inspiration to Rani Jhansi Bai and the well acclaimed first war of Indian Independence (1857) half a century later has been so forgotten in a world that today only seems to know/talk about ‘IT’ and ‘Stock Market booms and crashes’.

Even our maps seem to have relegated Panchalankuruchi to a non-highlighted region so much so that one has to search for the location. The one recent recognition was the commemorative stamp brought in 1999 to mark his 200th death anniversary!!!

The Kattabomman Clan
Jagaveera Pandiyan of Ottapidaram (then Veera Pandiyapuram) had a brave minister, GettiBommu (in Telugu), who had migrated from Andhra Pradesh to Tamil Nadu. Known for his fighting qualities, the minister at a later point in time came to be called Kattabomman(in Tamil).

Kattabomman ascended the throne after Jagaveera Pandiyan and came to be called Aathi Kattabomman(the first one). Veerapandiyan was born in this clan, on 3rd January 1760, to Jagaveeran Kattabomman and Arumugathammal. He had two brothers –Duraisingam and Dalavai Kumaraswami.

While Veerapandiyan was called the Karuthaiah(black prince), his brother Dalavai was referred to as the Sivathaiah (white prince). Interestingly, his other brother Duraisingam, who was a good orator, was referred to as Oomaithurai (dumb prince)!!! Oomaithurai was the one who held fort for a couple of years after Veerapandiyan’s death

Event leading to the Panchalankuruchi Fort
Once during a hunting expedition, Kattabomman was a witness to a remarkable incident that led to the building of the fort and the emergence of Panchalankuruchi. Several dogs chased a hare, which had to run for its life. However, suddenly, the hare stopped, turned back and in a daring incident, gave the hounds a chase.

Stunned by this event, it struck Kattabomman that this land had special powers and to inspire its people to lead a brave life decided to build the fort in this very same area and named it Panchalankuruchi, after his grand father Panchalan.

Veerapandiyan crowned King

In the Tamil calendar month of Thai(mid January-mid February)- on 2nd February 1790 at the age of 30, Veerapandiyan was crowned the 47th king and the 5th from the Kattabomman clan.

The Tiruchendur Temple connection
Veerapandiyan was a big devotee of Tiruchendur Lord Murugan and would begin his day only after the prayers to the Tiruchendur Lord. Veerapandiya Kattabomman installed around 40 bells, constructed what he called Mani Mandapam at various points between the Tiruchendur temple and the Panchalankuruchi Fort and appointed a person along this route to man the bells. Each of these bells would ring at the time of the pooja at the Tiruchendur temple and it was with the blessings of Lord Muruga would Veerapandiyan begin his day.

To this day, one can see the remains of these bells along the Panchalankuruchi-Tiruchendur route.

Kattabomman was also a staunch believer of Goddess Jaggammal. A temple in memory of this can be seen in the fort area.

Rivalry between Panchalankuruchi and Ettayapuram kings
From the very early days, there was bitter rivalry between Veerapandiyan and Ettappa, the ruler of Ettayapuram, a kingdom about 15kms North of Panchalankuruchi. Bitten time and again by the fearless Veerapandiyan, a wounded Ettappa was biding his time to seek revenge on the ruler of Panchalankuruchi. And it was this petty rivalry between the rulers of the neighbouring villages that was to prove fateful to Veerapandiyan a few years later.

Veerapandiyan was a powerful and fearless leader and very soon he had 96 villages under his rule and his name spread far and wide.

However, very early into his rule, he had to face the wrath of the British on the taxation front. The Arcot Nawab who had borrowed from the British gave them the right to collect taxes across the Southern region. When the Britishers came to Veerapandiyan to collect unpaid taxes of 6 years, he refused to pay and for a while even refused to meet them to discuss this issue.

The meeting with Jackson
Finally, he relented and met with British General Jackson in the Ramanathapuram palace in September 1798. Veerapandiya Kattabomman rendered a fiery speech stating that the British neither had a right over the land nor on the income (generated) from it.

This shook Jackson and the meeting ended on a bitter note. Veerapandiya Kattabomman slain several of the British soldiers. However, Veerapandiyan’s minister Thanapathi Pillai was captured in the ensuing fight and he was taken in their custody and sent to Tiruchirapalli for 15 days. Shaken by the ill treatment meted out to him, Thanapathi Pillai looted the Paddy Granary of the British in Sri Vaikuntam, about 30kms east of Tirunelveli.

With the help of Ettappan, who informed them about Veerapandiyan’s absence, the British led by Bannerman attacked Panchalankuruchi on a day when Kattabomman was away at the Tirchendur temple and in the battle that followed, captain Vellayathevan was killed.

In March 1799, Kattabomman was called for a meeting regarding the non payment of taxes but he refused to meet. Under Bannerman, the British attacked the fort of Panchalankuruchi from all sides. Kattabomman defeated the British who were left waiting for reinforcements, after which they renewed their attacks on the fort with cannons.

Brutal Execution of Chieftain
Thaanapathi Pillai was taken as a prisioner and executed, and in a brutal act, the British left his head hanging outside the Panchalankuruchi fort in an effort to send shock waves across the Panchalankuruchi forces.

Regardless of the presence of the huge British army, armed with deadly cannons, Sundaralingam, an important chieftain of Veerapandiyan, hoisted Kattabomman’s flag in an act in line with his leader’s dynamism.


Kattabomman leaves Panchalankuruchi
With the British strengthening their army, Kattabomman was advised to leave Panchalankuruchi and with his brother, left one night for Tiruchirapalli through an underground tunnel from the Panchalankuruchi fort.

Panchalankuruchi Fort Destroyed
In September 1799, Ettappan informed the British of Kattabomman’s departure from the fort. Taking advantage of this, the British attacked the Panchalankuruchi fort once again and demolished it with their cannons.

Kattabomman sought refuge in his friend Pudukottai Vijayaragunatha Thondaiman, who was also a close aide of Ettappan of Ettayapuram. The Pudukottai ruler did give refuge but he also informed the British of Kattabomman’s presence. The British attacked Kattabomman in Pudukottai and captured him.

Kattabomman Hanged in Kayathar

In October 1799, Veerapandiya Kattabomman was brought to the British camp in Kayathar and in what is widely believe to have been an unfair trial he was sentenced to death and hanged from a tree on the morning of 16th October 1799.And thus came to an end the life of possibly the bravest freedom fighter that Tamil Nadu has seen and one who continues to be an inspiration to this day. Even on that morning with death knocking on his doors, it is believed that Veerapandiya Kattabomman did not flinch an eyelid and walked to the tree with his head held high.

Panchalankuruchi after Kattabomman

Oomaithurai, the brother of Veerapandiyan, escaped from prison, gathered 7000 people and rebuilt the Panchalankuruchi fort in just 5 days (in February 1801). The fort rebuilt by him was compared to the Fort Gibraltor in Spain. However, in May that year the fort of Oomaithurai was destroyed in a brutal attack by the British. During this fight, Oomaidurai was gravely injured and fell unconscious.

In an unruly and shameful act, the British sowed Castor and Calostrophic seeds/salt on the area around the Panchalankuruchi fort so as to prevent erection of any structure on that spot in the future. And thus came down the huge fort built by Kattabomman, one that had its original inspiration from a hare chasing the hounds.

What remains today of the 30 acre Panchalankuruchi Fort

A memorial was set up for Veerapandiya Kattabomman in 1974 and a fort built on a 6 acre land here which is maintained by the tourism department. There are about 200 families belonging to the Kattabomman clan who still reside here. They have found jobs as day labourers, mechanics, policemen but it would not be far away from truth if one were to say that they are leading a financially insecure life.

There are seven arches (dedicated to the chieftains of Veerapandiyan) in the gateway to the Panchalankuruchi fort via Kurukkuchalai and Ottapidaram.

Photo sketch at the Memorial Fort
A remarkable photo sketch of the entire life of Kattabomman was done in Panchalankuruchi in 1974. Without any aid from technology, a photo of the hanging incident was sketched in a way that a fiery Veerapandiyan in his last moments seem to be looking at the onlooker from which ever direction you are at.

Conclusion

The map of Tamil Nadu may have handed out a 2nd hand treatment to Panchalakuruchi (quite shockingly, the Tamil Nadu tourism site has Panchalamkuruchi on the 7th page in the most important places of Thoothukudi!!!), the people may have forgotten (except on the day his movie is aired on one of the Television Channels) this inspiring and fearless freedom fighter of Tamil Nadu because of whom we have this freedom today, but make no mistake about it….the residents of Panchalankuruchi have something about them that truly inspires you. They believe in the soil and their valiant hero who gave his life in the battle for freedom. Just setting foot into this land and talking to the descendents of the Kattabomman clan creates a positive vibration and a fearlessness in you that one does not easily get to feel in this current day life.

It is important that Panchalankuruchi and Ottapidaram (the birth place of that other great freedom fighter VOC) are transformed into locations of national importance and hopefully Tamil Nadu Tourism will one day promote this region aggressively- Panchalankuruchi-Ottapidaram- Kayatharu- as the place from where emerged one of the earliest battles for freedom against the colonial rule of the British in Tamil Nadu.

In the absence of a concerted effort to bring back to glory the contribution of this valiant leader, Veerapandiya Kattabomman will remain only in the (school) history books and a once in a year movie on a TV channel.

Where is Panchalankuruchi
Panchalankuruchi is about 20 kms North West of Tuticorin and about 6kms West of Kurukuchalai off the NH45B Tuticorin- Madurai highway. It is about 15kms South of Ettayapuram.

How to reach Panchalankuruchi
1. Take Pearl City Express from Chennai to Tuticorin and then

a. Local bus to Ottapidaram (3 kms from Panchalankuruchi)
b. State bus from Tuticorin to Madurai and get down at Kurukuchalai

2. Take Pearl City or Nellai or Ananthapuri Express from Chennai to Kovilpatti and then

a. Take the bus from Kovilpatti to Tuticorin
b. Get down at Kurukuchalai (Kovilpatti to Kurukuchalai takes about 45minutes to an hour)

3. For Enterprising people Only - Take Pearl City or Ananthapuri Express to Kadambur or Vanchi Maniyachi and then

a. Explore a really infrequent bus service to Ottapidaram

While at Panchalankuruchi, one should also visit Kayatharu (about 25kms West) the place where Kattabomman was hanged. Again, buses every one hour from Ottapidaram.

Best to stay in Madurai/Thoothukudi/Tirunelveli

Friday, September 26, 2008

New AC lounge at Tiruchirapalli Junction

Another Passenger friendly initiative at Tiruchirapalli Junction


Having recently renovated the retiring rooms and dormitories and made it comparable to any classy hotel room, Tiruchirapalli Junction has come out with another convenience measure for passengers travelling Trichy.

The station has opened a first of its kind AC lounge for passengers, offering convenience that one has not experienced before in railway stations.

Priced at a very nominal Rs.10 for the first two hours and Rs.10/- for every subsequent hour, this facility on platform 1 is a welcome measure. The lounge has a discussion table and sports high quality chairs and sofa sets

The AC lounge would be ideal for passengers who come in on short half day/one day trips (they can stay here instead of taking up a hotel room). The lounge also has modern wash facilities. This is also quite convenient for passengers arriving or departing via late night trains (There are a number of trains arriving in/departing from Trichy Junction between 1130pm and 3am).

Train arrivals and departures are also displayed inside the lounge. With a number of plug points, the AC lounge will also be convenient for passengers to work on their laptops. Add to it the restaurant within the Junction, ATM, News Mart… You possibly have the most convenient ‘short trip’ staying location for train travellers to Tiruchirapalli.

The upper class waiting room(free) also sports a new and refreshing look.

A couple of suggestions:

1. Provide a facility for women to stay in dormitories

2. Make provision for internet browsing within or just outside the Junction complex

Monday, September 15, 2008

Then Thiruperai Nigaril Mugil Vannan

Nava Tirupathi Sukra Sthalam 
Bhoodevi takes the form and colour of Sridevi
3 kms North East of Thiru Kolur off the Tirunelveli-Tiruchendur highway is the Nigaril Mugil Vannan Divya Desam in Then Thiruperai where the Lord is seen in a majestic East facing sitting posture with Garuda seen slightly away so as to allow the Lord to see the kids of this temple town playing.

The story
Goddess Lakshmi was upset that Lord Vishnu was spending more time with Bhoodevi and not with her. She shared this grievance with Sage Durvasa and also wanted the same colour and beauty as Bhoodevi. Durvasa, who then met with Bhoodevi, was angered at her disregarding his presence and cursed her to take the same form and colour as Sridevi.
While undertaking penance at this place on the banks of Tamaraibarani, she found two fish shaped ear rings and offered it to the Lord. The Lord who wore this came to be known as ‘Makara Nedun Kuzhaikathan’. Since Bhoodevi had taken the form and colour of Sridevi (as a result of the curse), this place came to be called Sri Perai/Thiru Perai.

Another Story
Having been defeated by the Asuras, Varuna (the Rain God) lost his chief weapon (he had earlier insulted his Guru and hence this fate) and undertook penance here. Lord Vishnu is said to have appeared before him on the full moon day in Panguni and helped him recover his lost weapon as well as his powers. To mark this episode, it is believed that Varuna, visits this temple, every year, on the full moon day in the month of Panguni (March-April) to worship Vishnu.

Nammazhvaar's Praise of Nigaril Mugil Vannan
NamAzhvaar refers to Then Thiruperai as a place surrounded by mountain like jewel mansions.
where the Lord Makara Nedung Kulai Kaathan is seen wearing Makara Ear Rings. He refers to the Lord as Nigaril Mugil Vannan. He praises the Lord as one who killed 100 Kauravas. Nam Azhvaar says that any one who visits the Lord here and has darshan will immediately be drawn to this Lord for He was the one who stole his own ( Nam Azhvaar's) heart.

நகரமும் நாடும் பிறவும் தேர்வேன்
நான் எனக்கு, இல்லை என் தொழ்மீர்கால்
சிங்கார மணி நெடு மாடம் நீடு
தென் திருபெரையில் வீற்றி இருந்த

மகர நெடுங்குழை காதன், மாயன்
நூற்றுவரை அன்று மங்க நூற்ற
நிகர் இல முகில் வண்ணன், நேமியான், 

என் நெஞ்சம் கவர்ந்து எனை ஊழியானே - Tiruvoimozhi 

Ananthu Bhattar performs pooja in as sincere a way as a devotee can expect.
Quick Facts
Moolavar : Makara Nedung Kuzhai Kaathan East facing Sitting Posture
Goddess : Kuzhai Kaathu Valli, ThiruPerai Naachiyar (Separate Sannidhis)
Utsavar  : Nigaril Mugil Vannan
Azhvaar : Nam Azhvaar 11 Paasurams

Time      : 730am-12noon and 5pm-830pm
Contact :Anantha Padmanabha Bhattar @ 96889 51429 / 93605 53489 / 04639 273902 / Rahul Bhattar @ 79048 37116/ AK( Krishnaswamy) Bhattar @ 04639 272030 / Office : 04639 272233

For Nava Tirupathi trip, you may contact Sundar Cabs @ 9952755336

Friday, September 12, 2008

Thiru Kolur Vaitha Maa Nidhi

Bhujanga Sayanam
Birth Place of Madhura Kavi Azhvaar
A visit to this Divya Desam will help one recover lost wealth

Located 2 kilometers South East of Azhvaar Thirunagari is the birth place of Madhura Kavi Azhvaar and the Vaitha Maa Nidhi Divya Desam at Thiru Kolur. The Lord is seen in a reclining posture (Bhujanga Sayanam) facing East.
Recover Lost Wealth
Legend has it that Kubera, the protector of the nine forms of wealth, once went to have a Darshan of Lord Shiva. Having cast an evil eye on Goddess Parvati he was cursed as a result of which he lost an eye as well as the power of being the protector of the wealth. To be liberated from the curse, Kubera undertook penance here at Thiru Kolur.

Lord Vishnu appeared in a sleeping posture and took care of the nine forms of wealth from the banks of Taamaraibarani. Hence the Lord is called ‘Vaitha Maa Nidhi’.

Another story goes that Dharma Gupta, a brahmin, was in financial distress not being able to even feed his children. He invoked the blessings of his Guru Sage Bharadwaja.

The Sage explained to him the reasons for his current state- Dharma Gupta who had been wealthy in his previous birth had become arrogant and did not share his wealth with the poor.

The sage asked Dharma Gupta to proceed to Thiru Kolur to undertake penance in front of Vaitha Maa Nidhi Perumal. Following this, he  recovered his lost wealth here at Thiru Kolur.

A visit to this temple will help one recover lost wealth. The Lord here helps the devotees in distress who offer their sincere prayers to him at the temple.

Namazhaavar refers to the Lord as Vaitha Maa Nithi

வைத்த  மா நிதியாம் மதுசூதனையே அலற்றி 
கொத்தலர்  பொழில் சூழ் 
......

அவன் சேர்  திரு கோலூற்கே 
சித்தம் வைத்துரைபார் நிகழ் பொன் உலகாழ்வாரே

Quick Facts
Moolavar     : Nishebavithan East Facing Sleeping Posture
Goddess       : Kumutha Valli, Kolur Valli
Utsavar        :  Vaitha Maa Nidhi
Azhvaar       : NammAzhvaar 12 verses
Time            : 730am-12noon and 4pm-8pm
Contact        : Balaji Bhattar @ 90472 17914 /Srinivasa Bhattar @ 99429 31701 or 04639 273806

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Azhvaar Tirunagari Aadhi Nathan temple

Natha Muni came here to listen to the sacred verses from Nam Azhvaar and composed the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham
All the Nava Tirupathi Lords congregate here in Vaikasi  for the 9 Garuda Sevai
Located about 30 kms East of Tirunelveli on the Tirunelveli-Tiruchendur highway, Aathi Naathan Temple in Azhvaar Tirunagari is one of the Nava Tirupathi temples on either side of Taamaraibarani. This place is also referred to as Aathi Kshetram, Varaaha Kshetram, Theertha Kshetram, Thaantha Kshetram and Sesha Kshetram and is also called Thiru Kurugur. There are a number of inscriptions here that date back a 1000years.

There is a separate Sannidhi for NammAzhvaar said to be more significant than the main Sannidhi itself for it was here that he spent 16 years in silence. This is the only Divya Desam to have the name of the Azhvaar.

Composition of Naalayira Divya Prabhandham
Naatha Muni, who came here to compile the Naalayira Divya Prabhandham composition, met with Madura Kavi Azhvaar and picked up ‘Kanninun Sirutha Ambinaal’ composition from him.  Naatha Muni recited these verses 12000 times before NammAzhvaar appeared before him to share the contents of the Naalayira Divya Prabhandham, which Naatha Muni wrote and compiled.

The story
3 days before the end of the Raama Avataar, Lord Yama came to meet Raama. Given the timing, Raama asked Lakshmana not to allow anyone inside. Unfortunately for Lakshmana, it turned out that Sage Durvasa chose to meet with Raama. Knowing the sage’s anger and not wanting to be at the receiving end, Lakshmana remained silent and allowed him entry.
As he stood still like a tree and did not stop the Sage from coming in, as instructed by him, Raama pronounced that Lakshmana turn into a tree. Saddened by this, Lakshmana pleaded before Raama that he could never live away from him. Consoling him, Raama said that he himself had to atone for the sin of making Sita stay in the forest and that he would be born as NammAzhvaar and stay ‘still’ for 16 years. During this period, he would sit under the tamarind tree (Lakshmana).

He directed Lakshmana to the banks of Taamaraibarani, where he would get transformed into a tree. When born, Nammazhvaar did not open his eyes or cry. He resided under the tamarind tree within the Aathi Naathan temple for 16 years till he met Madurakavi (who later became his disciple) who posed some interesting questions about life. And that is when NammAzhvaar spoke for the first time.

So impressed was MaduraKavi (Azhvaar) with Nammazhvaar’s answers, that he said ‘I do not need God, Nammazhvaar is enough’.

Nam Azhvaar Paasuram
ஓடி ஓடி பல பிறப்பும் பிறந்து

மற்ற ஓர் தெய்வம்
பாடி ஆடிப் பணிந்து, பல்படிகளால்
வழி ஏறிக் கண்டீர்

கூடி வானவர் ஏத்த நின்ற
திரு குருகூர் அதனுள்
ஆடு புள் கொடி ஆதி மூர்த்திக்கு
அடிமை புகுவதுவே


Stone Nadaswaram
A special feature at the Aathi Nathan temple at Azhvaar Thirunagari is the stone nadaswaram that is several centuries old.

Festival
An important festival at this temple is Vaikasi Utsavam, when the deities from all the Nava Tirupathi temples congregate here on the occasion of Garuda Sevai to listen to the Paasurams with Nammazhvaar seated on the Hamsa Vaahanam.


Araiyar Sevai
This is one of the three Divya Desams in TN where Araiyar Sevai, the visual song and dance enactment of the ‘Paasurams is still being performed.
Quick Facts

Moolavar : Aadhi Nathan East Facing Standing Posture
Goddess   :Aadhi Nathavalli, Kurugur Valli
Timing : 7am-12noon and 5pm-8pm
Contact : Appu Sadagopachari @ 04639 273984/ office 04639 273607
Thiruvengata Bhattar @ 04639 272079 /Araiyar Srinivasan @ 98944 43900

How to reach Azhvaar ThiruNagari
By bus- It is an hour from the new bus stand at Tirunelveli. Buses ply every 5-10minutes on the Tirunelveli-Tiruchendur route. By Train- One can reach the temple by getting down at Azhvaar Tirunagari station 
By Car- One can also take a cab from Tirunelveli and finish all the 9 temples in half day- one day

Contact: Ganesh Cabs @ 94436 71632/  Sundar CAbs @ 9952755336For auto to Nava Tirupathi temples contact: Subramaniyan @ 94423 70844